Coolant Fill/Bleeding Question
 

I've changed the waterpump in my 2008 987, replaced some hoses, everything looks great but as I'm attempting to fill the coolant I don't see the temp gauge rising.

I've filled with coolant and distilled water up to the "max" fill line, then started the car and let it run for around 5 minutes. There's been no change to the fluid level and no change to the temp gauge in the car. Is it just a matter of running it longer before I see a change in either of them? I see the temp gauge light blinking (low coolant warning) and that's freaking me out a bit.

I just want a sanity check that I'll be OK if I wait it out. I don't remember having to wait that long to see the needle move in the past.

Thanks,
Ed.

Ed, Did pretty much the same repair on mine. But I left the lid off the coolant tank and put in a little in at a time and let it burp. while engine was running. So the stat would open and fill the rest of the system. Then put a little more in at a time. Until it I got close to what I got out. Then, put the cap back on the coolant tank with the vent valve open the let air escape. While the engine was running. Then topped off a little at a time from there. Turned the engine off a few times to let things settle. The process took some time. It's not a drain fill and go situation. Sounds like you have a big air bubble in yours and the coolant is not reaching the temp stat. Just my thoughts. I'm sure someone with more experience than me will chime in.

Thanks Randy. I appreciate the reply. I figured it was a matter of sticking with the program but, as I mentioned, I was freaking myself out :-)

After poking around more I believe I'm going to have to get a vacuum fill system just to be on the safe side. Thanks all.

I fitted new water pump and LN thermo last year.
Try getting under the car and squeezing the coolant hoses where they enter and exit the motor and thermostat. You will soon know if there is any coolant in them.

My procedure after changing the water pump and thermostat was, start and run for 1-2 mins with rad cap off. Turn off and burp the hoses. Start again and run for 2-3 mins. Burp again. Start and run till needle begins to move. Top up if reqd, burp again. I burped it for peace of mind, that there was fluid at the pump and inlet outlet.
Let engine cool completely. Fit coolant cap, start and drive slowly for about 15mins take 5 ltrs water incase needed.
After this, I noticed the temp gauge was running at the original temp after about 30mins driving. I guessed there was an air lock, so left the cap off and drove for 2hrs, hoping to get the air lock out. This worked and vehicle now runs at correct temp for LN thermostat.
Hope it works for you.

Why not read Wayne's article on "Coolant Replacement".

i recently replaced the overflow tank in my boxster, and the refill is definately an iterative process due to all the plumbing. In my case i drove it around the block for a few minutes with the vent valve open and then added as necessary. I topped it off about 2-3 times The article by Wayne is a good reference.

UPDATE:
@ThompsonDrew: I started there and it's a great article but it turns out that I have a 987.2 type filler and tank assembly so it's not the same as there's no bleeder valve readily accessible.

I ended up purchasing a UView 550000 system for ~$115 on Amazon and I was able to create a vacuum and suck the coolant into the system that way.

The key is you can't use the vacuum system in the filler spot in the trunk (for some reason it won't create the vacuum needed). Instead you have to access the top of the engine and use the filler at the top of the coolant resevoir (there's a bleeder valve next to that one). With that one the vacuum is created in about a minute and the fill takes about two. Pretty slick :)