Install RMS in Boxster

[Jay Laifman]

This really is a pain without the correct tool. Here is one of the better threads out there with options: Installing RMS without Porsche Special Tool 9609 + 9606/1 - Page 3 - 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa) - RennTech.org Forums

I will say that Porsche would have solved this stupid problem with any of two "easy" fixes:
(1) Put a dang lip inside the case so that the RMS would bottom out on it.
(2) Make the RMS longer/deeper and put a lip on the top outward edge of RMS, like the brim of a top hat, that would hit the edges of the case, which would stop the RMS from going in too far and hold it in the right spot.

I realize that it's too late for #1. #2 might work, but the edge of the engine there is not well machined. So it may not be even enough to get an accurate stopping point.

One more option - put a loop or posts on the face of the RMS so you could PULL the dang thing back out to get it in exactly the right spot. They wouldn't interfere with the moving parts. I'm sort of toying with doing it myself with parts that I could either remove, or which would cause no issue whatsoever if they happened to fall off (like epoxying on a few threads that I could snip off once installed - but they may just pull through any epoxy if I really needed to use them).

I've also thought about drilling through to have a more sturdy riveted on alloy loop to pull up. I think the risk is low that it could falling apart, or even if it did, doing any damage. And I think it could be done to still seal well around the rivet. But, unless someone else has some idea to make it more foolproof, I could never take that risk - and would think it quite stupid (without a better idea).

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Jay Laifman

This really is a pain without the correct tool. Here is one of the better threads out there with options: Installing RMS without Porsche Special Tool 9609 + 9606/1 - Page 3 - 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa) - RennTech.org Forums

I will say that Porsche would have solved this stupid problem with any of two "easy" fixes:
(1) Put a dang lip inside the case so that the RMS would bottom out on it.
(2) Make the RMS longer/deeper and put a lip on the top outward edge of RMS, like the brim of a top hat, that would hit the edges of the case, which would stop the RMS from going in too far and hold it in the right spot.

I realize that it's too late for #1. #2 might work, but the edge of the engine there is not well machined. So it may not be even enough to get an accurate stopping point.

One more option - put a loop or posts on the face of the RMS so you could PULL the dang thing back out to get it in exactly the right spot. They wouldn't interfere with the moving parts. I'm sort of toying with doing it myself with parts that I could either remove, or which would cause no issue whatsoever if they happened to fall off (like epoxying on a few threads that I could snip off once installed - but they may just pull through any epoxy if I really needed to use them).

I've also thought about drilling through to have a more sturdy riveted on alloy loop to pull up. I think the risk is low that it could falling apart, or even if it did, doing any damage. And I think it could be done to still seal well around the rivet. But, unless someone else has some idea to make it more foolproof, I could never take that risk - and would think it quite stupid (without a better idea).

There are multiple ways to do this, and they have all been written up. It can be as simple as using a $4 plastic pipe coupler and your old flywheel bolts, you could also check around for one of the machined Delrin tools that were made up as the result of that thread (they do an excellent job of installing the seal), or try and find someone with the real factory tool (about $600 at retail, but a true work of art). Most people just fabricate something and take their time to get the seal in straight and to the correct depth; it is just not that hard to do.

[Jay Laifman]

Yep. I'm in the process of making one. I was able to source two great parts from the hardware store that allows me to make one very similar to the factory part - with one large central bolt to slowly turn it evenly all the way in (13 mm not 14 mm).

I think I am mostly expressing frustration at the silliness of this part - just floating in the gap there, and how easy it would have been to do it right.

Thanks again for your assistance with the IMS bearing.

[Jay Laifman]

FWIW, I built my own tool. Unlike the other designs I've seen, I did it like the factory tool that uses springs to push it back and keep it aligned as it moves forward.

I liked the simplicity of the one with the four holes that used four of the flywheel bolts. But I did not like how that would only be as flat as the user rotated each bolt. I was fortunate enough to find a PVC part at the hardware store that allowed me to drill one hole in the center and use the springs.

Pictures will follow.

Jay

[Jay Laifman]

Ok, FWIW, my tool did work. But, I will say that the thing that helped really make it work is to freeze the seal first. That made it easy to get the seal in and perfectly lined up at 13 mm. However, admittedly, the first attempt, without it being frozen was not successful. With the second attempt (and second seal) frozen, there was no frustration.

And also, I did not need the inner edge to stop it at 13 mm. As I slowly turned the nut to push it in, I was able to move it slow enough, back off and stop it at the right spot.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Jay Laifman

Ok, FWIW, my tool did work. But, I will say that the thing that helped really make it work is to freeze the seal first. That made it easy to get the seal in and perfectly lined up at 13 mm. However, admittedly, the first attempt, without it being frozen was not successful. With the second attempt (and second seal) frozen, there was no frustration.

And also, I did not need the inner edge to stop it at 13 mm. As I slowly turned the nut to push it in, I was able to move it slow enough, back off and stop it at the right spot.

I put a lot of these in using the factory tool, and I do not see what the advantage of freezing the seal offers. With the OEM tool, they slide right into place at room temperature without any fuss. Care to enlighten me?

[Jay Laifman]

Nothing monumental. Bottom line, a homemade tool is not the factory tool. I'm sure the factory tool (which is not readily available to folks who want to do this themselves) makes it much easier.

As you know, freezing the seal shrinks it. This allows the seal to fit in with less resistance. On my first attempt, with the full size, unfrozen seal, when it went in, it became slightly uneven. No amount of trying to lightly tap it with a dowel could get it to get even again. When I did it with the frozen one, first, it was barely off, just a tiny bit, much less than the unfrozen one - and arguably just fine. But because it was not binding as much, it was easy to just lightly tap it and get it absolutely perfect.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Jay Laifman

Nothing monumental. Bottom line, a homemade tool is not the factory tool. I'm sure the factory tool (which is not readily available to folks who want to do this themselves) makes it much easier.

As you know, freezing the seal shrinks it. This allows the seal to fit in with less resistance. On my first attempt, with the full size, unfrozen seal, when it went in, it became slightly uneven. No amount of trying to lightly tap it with a dowel could get it to get even again. When I did it with the frozen one, first, it was barely off, just a tiny bit, much less than the unfrozen one - and arguably just fine. But because it was not binding as much, it was easy to just lightly tap it and get it absolutely perfect.

Interesting.................