Question on Boxster Intermediate Shaft Bearing

Do most IMS bearings end up failing? I recently bought a 2000 Boxster with 18,000 miles. I have no noise or problems and I intend to have it checked at every oil change. Can these failures be prevented with proper oil & maintenance or should the IMS bearing simply be replaced?

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[Nick at Pelican Parts]

From what I understand, yes, most fail. I would replace it if you have the opportunity to do so.

- Nick

[mikefocke]

I'm reacting to Nick's "most fail" statement.

Porsche admitted to a failure rate of around 1% per car year if the bearing was a generation 2 single row version. At this point, we don't even know if his is this worst case generation. Even if it was, that would leave at least 85% of the MY 2000 IMS bearings still running. But that 85% is probably high because the mileage on the average car has increased since the law suit was settled. But my bet is that most of those IMS bearings are still running. Eventually, all wear-surface parts fail, it is just a question of do they fail before something else fails first.

OTOH, there is a theory that seldom used cars suffer the most frequent IMS failures. And a 15 year old car that averaged 100 miles a month certainly doesn't qualify for heavily used.

You can't be absolutely sure until you remove the transmission what bearing version the engine has especially for the cut over years like 2000. It could have a third generation if the engine had been replaced.

Having said all that, for an 18k mile car, I'd replace the IMS, RMS and AOS and maybe the water pump while I had the chance. AOS and water pump because they are plastic and old. RMS and AOS because they are easy to do while you have the transmission off.

[jklaspok]

Actually, it depends. I've read of many who had their IMS bearings replaced with much higher miles than yours, and the bearing was in great shape. I had the bearing replaced on my 2000 Boxster at 103,000 miles and it to was in very good shape. I have the more robust double row bearing. There is some uncertainty as to when Porsche went with the single row bearing (higher failure rate); but according to my mechanic and some on the forums, it was in 2001.

It may not help you rest easier, but I would recommend do some research on this and other forums. You may consider (as I did) to have the bearing replaced when your clutch is replaced. It saves alot of money in labor and most importantly, will give you a peace of mind.

[Scnell Gelb]

The consensus is that failure is seldom primarily mileage related. Low mileage cars seem particularly vulnerable. So Mike's advice is perfect ,as usual.

[2k-986-s]

TPW15 I had the same questions as you as I recently inherited / purchased a 2000 Boxster S with only 14000 miles. The car runs great. I did a cam deviation check and both were within limits ( -3.16 and -2.92). I changed the oil and checked the oil filter and it was free of debris, but based on the research that I have done regarding the IMSB I decided to do the retrofit.

Two days ago I removed the flywheel and the outside of the iMS bearing look good, but the RMS has been leaking. I have all of the parts and will doing the complete retrofit this week.

Could I of continued to drive the car, you bet, but doing the retrofit provides piece of mind and hopefully helps with the resale value should I ever decide to sell it.

Good Luck.

[Scnell Gelb]

2k986S
So which upgrade IMSB did you fit ? Out of curiosity what influenced your choice?

[2k-986-s]

Originally Posted by Scnell Gelb

2k986S
So which upgrade IMSB did you fit ? Out of curiosity what influenced your choice?

Schnell Gelb,

Regarding which upgrade I went with, I went with the LN Engineering dual row IMSB.

If I understand correctly, your second question is why I went with the LN Engineering solution. My decision was based on the following: it is a proven product, they provide the documentation to install, the necessary tools (BTW I purchased the Faultless IMS tool and have used it to remove the bearing which was very easy to do and will using to install the new IMSB), and phone support for their solution.

It is the one stop solution that I was looking for which is why I went with them.

I hope I answered your question.

[wikan]

Originally Posted by 2k-986-s

Schnell Gelb,

Regarding which upgrade I went with, I went with the LN Engineering dual row IMSB.

If I understand correctly, your second question is why I went with the LN Engineering solution. My decision was based on the following: it is a proven product, they provide the documentation to install, the necessary tools (BTW I purchased the Faultless IMS tool and have used it to remove the bearing which was very easy to do and will using to install the new IMSB), and phone support for their solution.

It is the one stop solution that I was looking for which is why I went with them.

I hope I answered your question.

2K986S - thanks for contributing on my IMS question. Have you installed the new bearing yet? Did you have any surprises?I'm going to undertake the same job soon on my 03 base- and all suggestions listened to closely!!!

[2k-986-s]

Originally Posted by wikan

2K986S - thanks for contributing on my IMS question. Have you installed the new bearing yet? Did you have any surprises?I'm going to undertake the same job soon on my 03 base- and all suggestions listened to closely!!!

I Have not installed the new bearing yet, as my day job is cutting into my fun time.

Hopefully, this weekend I can get back on the project.

First, my disclaimer. I am not a Porsche expert, in fact, three months ago was the first time I drove a Porsche ( My Boxster ), and doing the IMSB is the first time that I have actually worked on one , but I have built and flown a two seater kit high performance airplane, so I am familiar with following instructions and working with tools.

At this point no surprises per say, and here a couple of notes regarding my experience at this point replacing the IMSB.

- Read and re-read the instruction until it makes sense. Even after doing that I still had questions and asked the same question using different sources i.e. Dealership, LN engineering. Forum, until I had a consistent answer that made sense to me.

-Sharpie- I used one numerous times to tag items i.e. numbering each transmission bolt as well on the engine case noting it location, on each spark plug. on the chain tensioners etc. For me it just will make it easers at reassembly time.

-Spark plugs: I removed all of them, which made it easier rotating the engine to TDC.

- TDC: . Trying to get the notch on the crank pulley to line up with the arrow on the engine case where I could insert the locking pin took a couple of tries. ALWAYS rotate the engine in a clockwise direction. You might be temped to rotate the engine backward if you slightly missed aligning the pulley hole with the engine block, DONT DO IT just go around another time. I used a small mirror to see if the pulley hole was aligned with the engine block and that helped.

Tools: One of my favorite tools is the Durametric diagnostic tool. I paid $287 plus shipping and it is an excellent tool to have as it provides countless engine information and other functions. I used it check my Cam deviation prior to starting the IMSB work ( Per LN Instructions) and it gave me a baseline for checking the cam dev. after the install and moving forward. Note: At this time it only runs on Windows. I have a MAC and I use VM Fusion to run my windows based apps and it works great.

Tools: The LN Pro IMSB kit does not come with a bolt to bolt the Cam loc to the block (at least mine didn't). No problem, as you can use a one of the 6 bolts that you took off that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel.

Tools: On my 6 speed transmission there are 8 bolts used to bolt the transmission to the engine. One of them has a triple square head. Per a suggestion on one of the forums I ordered the following from their web page: SNAP-ON BLPXZNM3810 Stubby 10mm Triple Square and it worked great. With tax it was $9.59

Tools: Flywheel lock- There are some great idea on the web to create your own and I thought about it, but again per a suggestion on a forum I purchased the Porsche one ( Part# 000-721-953-81) for $59.94 and it worked great.

Tools: I opted to use a $15 ( Walmart had them on sale) 1.5 Ton scissor jack to support the engine. The price was right and it allowed me to adjust. as needed, to get the right amount of support to allow easy removal of the transmission.

Tools: IPhone - Last time I checked I have taken just over 300 images using my iPhone 6. It has been a great tool documenting the process: before, during and I will use the images when it comes time to reassemble.

Bumper removal: I opted to remove the bumper to allow more access room for removing the transmission and I am glad I did.

Those are a couple that I hope help.

[2k-986-s]

A couple more things that I just thought about.

Tools: I purchased a harbor fright transmission jack. It has worked great and made removal of the exhaust and transmission a one man job.

Chain tensioners: I decided to remove all three at the same time. This gives me the opportunity to: Examine all three for wear, replace the O-Ring and take pictures for future comparison.

Clutch / RMS : Once I got to the point of removing everything to get to the back of engine, I decided I didn't want to do this again in the near future, so although the car has very little mileage I opt to replace all of the clutch components as well as the RMS.

Here are a couple pics of the jack, old and new pressure plate and the rear of the car with the bumper removed.

http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/48128986_QcJtQQ#!i=3942372255&k=Wb3NKg4

[wikan]

Originally Posted by 2k-986-s

A couple more things that I just thought about.

Tools: I purchased a harbor fright transmission jack. It has worked great and made removal of the exhaust and transmission a one man job.

Chain tensioners: I decided to remove all three at the same time. This gives me the opportunity to: Examine all three for wear, replace the O-Ring and take pictures for future comparison.

Clutch / RMS : Once I got to the point of removing everything to get to the back of engine, I decided I didn't want to do this again in the near future, so although the car has very little mileage I opt to replace all of the clutch components as well as the RMS.

Here are a couple pics of the jack, old and new pressure plate and the rear of the car with the bumper removed.

2000 Boxster S

great pics!! Also, kudos for the ramps- must be a major project to do all the woodwork!!!!
Mine is a tiptronic- so is a little different, but much is the same...agree that while it is doable- is not much fun so is wise to replace what you can to maximize the interval before having to have that much fun again!!
Just got my flywheel, thermostat and AOS off, will tackle the HoH pump in the morning. Hopefully you've had a chance to take a shot at the IMS- nice to hear if you wind up with any challenges, since that's next for me after HoH pump!!!