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Camber plates are in.
Going to install them this weekend. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1618974438.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1618974438.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1618974438.jpg |
I restored a pair of carburetors for my '56 coupe.
BEFORE http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1619037393.jpg AFTER http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1619037393.jpg |
I've been up-fixin der neighbour's shed.
From this: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1619148142.JPG To this: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1619148201.JPG |
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Thanks! |
Haha, thanks. It's a "repair" in case the people over the back fence complain it doesn't meet council regulations and is too close to the fence.
The span accross the front is 5.2 metres with joist hangers welded to it. I got a number of these that had been parts of an electricity pylon. I have a few ideas for "repairs" using the other seven LOL The roof is sort of corrogated iron. except it's stuff called zincalume which is zinc and aluminium. Supposedly better in the very salty enviroment here at the beach. There is also a surfer's shower as part of the plumbing to the sink. |
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The corrogated roofing stuff is consistant with my scrounger philosophies I bought them for next to nothing as factory seconds. They are the thin .55mm sheets and had got dented at the factory. And as my GF says "It's only a redneck shed." so factory seconds will do just fine LOL |
Little fine tuning on the back patio project today. I reset the privacy cloth so it fits the opening better. It's also now tied off at every grommet with paracord.
Then I ran 1x4's along the bottom a few inches off the bottom just as a safety barrier for Winkipop as there is a small drop off along that outer edge. Then 1x4's actually came in real handy as a place to tie off the bottom of the cloth. I also ran 4 sections of aluminum drip edge along the top where there was a small gap and storm water was getting in. Should be rain proof now, but will know more when we get our next rain. I was lucky I could just slide that drip edge right across the top there from one end. I used those fasteners they use for screen rooms to fasten each piece together. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1619223776.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1619223776.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1619223776.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1619223776.JPG |
Working on a different pressure washer today. It was a trash picked washer i got years ago that didnt pump but ran good honda gcv160 looks like a good machine in nice shape. Well i needed the carb and filter for customers machines so now it had junk so i bought a new carb and filter got it running again but the pump is still bad. The one on it was trashed and full of the white death. I had another one i put on there and couldnt get that one pumping either. I think its actually missing some valves but cant be sure. I gave up. Next day im rummaging in the shed and spotted another pump different design. So I took it apart and found the unloader valve stuck. I think this one can work and it did! Successful repair. good thing I save stuff
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What is your high wind situation? Everything I do here I have in mind the day we got 128mph winds. About 8 years ago but if it does it once it wil do it again. I build things not so much as to hold them up, but to hold them down. |
Installed the camber plates what I thought would take a couple of hours, turned into six. Struts came out easy, but the camber plates added a little height and I couldn’t get the top nut started. Tried to install it by jacking it up, compressing the spring, and that didn’t work either.
I was about to head to see who had a spring compressor, when I had an idea. It worked. Edit. The castor adjustment screws were garbage. Either installed wrong or defective from the get go. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1619317667.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1619317726.jpg |
The old school way, smack smash one two punch works the best ... nice.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1619754694.jpg Maintain a wide stance, remember. |
New eaves trough had to go on the north side of the house. The bad news was 36 feet of eave which had to be prined and painted first. The good news was the eave was only 9 feet from the ground.
When it stops raining,I will install the 500 liter rain barrel. (Ironic, ain't it?) Best Les |
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Finished the battery box today. I had purchased a used diamond plate aluminum truck tool box to use as material. Pieced it together and riveted the big chunks together. Holds two 6 vdc deep cycle batteries for the new to us trailer. The "F" is marking the front of the box. I wasn't being graded on this project! Sill have to arrange the tie downs for the batteries and some way to lock it. |
Weekend project-installed 2" hitch on the volvo. Flushed the coolant, steering, brakes, AOC, front bevel gear, and rear diff. Not enough energy left to put the tires back on. I'm beat!
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I spent a couple hours replacing a wheel bearing on the old 4Runner on Friday. It was a refreshingly easy job. Took a couple relaxed hours and we are back in business. I love unit bearings.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1619977492.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1619977492.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1619977492.jpg |
The last time i used my 1 ton i noticed my right rear caliper hanging up on my F-550.
What a fight getting the wheels off. Outside was not too bad. Couple of slams with BFH and got it off. The inside wheel would not budge. Hammer and cuss and hammer some more.... nada. Had to use the torch and heat around wheel studs before it finally came off. The rest of the job was a piece of cake. |
My brother's shed now has doors...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1619985990.jpg One big slider and a 9-ft wide swing door on the far right. See post #697 of this thread to see it in work. |
Changed the oil in the F150.
Changed out the HVAC control I the BMW, to see if it stops the battery drain Tried to set up the Cartek shift light in the BMW. No luck. |
I bought a 94 quart cooler a few years ago at an estate sale for $10. It showed it's age and the handles were broken. I had quick fixed it with some pieces of rope but they wore out. I went on Amazon and they wanted $12.75 for 1. I wasn't going to pay $25 to replace the handles on a $10 cooler.
I've had this piece of 1/8" stainless steel rod that I've been carrying around for years. Bent it to fit and added a piece of 3/8" fuel hose to act a handle cushion. Perfect and FREE! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1620090919.jpg |
Sprayed lattice with the HF touchup.
The 2x4s need to dry out and will become a mortise/tenon frame for some decorative black panels. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1620095064.jpg |
I just started fixing the suspension of my truck. I'm done replacing the lower control arms and sway bar links. My next plan is to install the bilstein shocks and replace the springs.
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Scott. The shed. Are you sure you're not a Kiwi? |
Quite sure, Bill.
My brother likes to make use of materials he has around rather than buy stuff. |
Pulled the motor out of my 85' Mercedes wagon and cleaned up the engine compartment with the pressure washer. Going to scuff up the green and give it a fresh coat of paint. Then in with the rebuilt motor. Old one was leaking oil and needs a reseal.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1620161590.jpg
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We pulled/ripped the rotting floor in my daughter's 30' camper, and replaced with new 3/4" plywood ($55 a sheet). She had water damage from a leaking roof that was fixed last year.
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Bosch 4100 table saw. I think every previous owner has pulled it apart and had a pile of "spare" parts left over when reassembled. 😜
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Speaking of hoses....at one of my monthly accounts, I told the owner he should strongly consider getting one of those expandable hoses for his applications. I've been looking after this place now for over 10 years so am very well acquainted with it's infrastructure and nuances.
But as they say...you can lead a horse to water. He had his property maintenance company install this new hanger and now this is what he has. :rolleyes: Hanger too low to the ground. Crappy hose. Have to unwind it to use. Have to wind it back when done. Then there's the kink where it attaches. They make little fittings that have a bend in them as well as others that have a swiveling elbow. I've been working intimately with hoses most of my adult life. I use them every day. Hell I even have a PHD! (Professional Hose Dragger) Nevertheless.....it is what it is.....I'm just glad I don't have to use this one! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1620952547.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1620952547.JPG |
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I had forgotten to post a photo of the battery box I made for the travel trailer. Not feeling good about leaving a few hundred dollars worth of batteries on the trailer tongue undefended, I looked at purchasing a lockable double battery box and decided to make this one instead. Bought a truck tool box for the bed for $50 and cut up the pieces to get the shape I was after. Total material cost (including a new riveter!) was about $150. Had used a friends sheetmetal equipment to make the top. Had it on the trailer a couple of weeks ago and still need 4 footman loops to better secure the batteries inside. |
Thought I post a bit about our progress. They boys basically built the whole thing. I did all the angles cuts and stuff they ca 't figure out. Ipe decking all done, now we need the hand railing. I can't find any more around town. 14-18 feet 5/4' lumber is needed. No one has it, all out and more expensive then gold. so we wait and just oil the deck in a couple days and clean up the mess.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621882066.JPG
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If wood is unafordable now, maybe it's time for steel or something else creative.
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I have to match the lower deck with the same type of lumber. That 450sq' of Ipe decking cost me over 5k. I am still feeling it.
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My 13 year old is the hero here. He's the first to stop playing computer game, comes right out to get down and dirty. Not afraid to walk on the framing neither. He already carved out a section which he claims the spot for his hammock. He likes to read and of course sleep |
Got 80% done with rust-slowing a 17yo Toyota using Eastwood products.
Rust-convert, undercoat, primer, chassis black, inner-chassis spray tubes, exhaust paint. Still needed to pull the wheels and dress up the smaller bits. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1622653382.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1622653442.jpg I like their rust converter. No smell or burn and leaves a shellac-like coating. Shake very well and then shake some more. Spray it on a chip brush and really work it in. This is a clothes drying pole I had to chisel and grind smooth because the dirt was like rock. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1622653456.jpg |
Ugh. Treated lumber only ten years old. I had already applied about three applications of Cabots and thought it protected.
(This is where snow accumulates and should have known better.) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1622654912.jpg The first round of wood lattice fell apart after a few years and I replaced it with plastic. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1622654985.jpg Cabots has beautiful colors but it doesn't penetrate well or hold up in the sun. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1622655019.jpg Get it square again and tape all the tops is the plan. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1622655038.jpg I chipped out the rot with a screwdriver. Blew out the dust. Liberally coated all the insides and tops with hardener. Let it dry. Got a first coat of filler in before the rain. This J-B Weld product dries in only a few seconds(!) even with minimal hardener used. Have to work fast. On the deep ends missed I'll probably have to inject a single-stage wood glue and fill them up. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1622655156.jpg |
New Gas Lines and Copper Plumbing over the Memorial Day Weekend. Installing a new tankless water heater and relocating to a different place required re-routing several pipes. In addition, I ran a gas line up into the attic for next year's project of moving the Heater/AC to the attic and freeing up a needed closet.
Step #1: Remove toilet from no-longer used water closet to make room for tankless water heater. This photo is the drilling out the cast iron sewer connection (they welded with lead & oakum in the old days). http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1622674495.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1622675637.jpg Step #2: Installing 3" PVC exhaust & intake for the Tankless. This runs thru the attic and then down to the appliance. It vents to the outside up on the roof area. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1622674773.jpg Finished Roof Vent for Tankless: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1622674872.jpg Step #3: Re-routing Gas Lines; New line for Tankless, Line for relocated stove, new line up the wall to the attic for future relocation of heater to attic. Under the house is really spacious :) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1622675014.jpg Step #4: Copper plumbing for new tankless, pot filler behind stove, and lines for kitchen island http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1622675157.jpg Me, after several trips under the house - Uggg, I'm too old for this. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1622675257.jpg Tankless Installed - It works! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1622675337.jpg |
Vern, I feel your pain. I bought a pair of heavy coveralls. I spent Sunday and Monday under my house removing 25' of 65 year old 2" cast iron with 3" PVC.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1622681124.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1622682171.jpg The grease build up was pretty bad. |
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