Thanks Gents. Cleaning some thinset out of the grout joints today before grouting. Did a sample of the grout on some off cut material and I am happy with the colour of it. Will post a finished photo hopefully soon.

My brother has been driving my 67 cj-5 to work for the past 3 weeks and likely all winter. He went to go home and the battery was dead. Jumped it and it had no brakes and smoke was coming out. Turned out the brake switch shorted out somehow and maybe boiled the fluid. He unplugged it and drove home with no brakes. Well the fluid was empty but its the last time i want to replace the hydraulic switch so i rigged up a mechanical one on the back of the pedal arm. Pedals go through the floor and its all a very tight fit under there. I dont know if it will last any longer then the hydraulic switch but atleast its a seperate system now and wont effect the brakes working. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1639274622.JPG
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Swapped out the bearings in my 330 until I rebuild the engine. Number one is the worst, but the others show some good wear as well.

Edit: they picked up some trash, moving them from underneath the car to my workbench.


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More work on the rear deck re-boot.

New canopy configuration. Slope now going North-South.

Got the framing done. Cut the 4 roof panels. Now spraying them.

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Our Fridgidaire dryer started beeping continuously and had an E68 code in the display which translates to a stuck button. Found a video to for getting the control panel into a self diagnostic mode and found all buttons were working as they should. Upon removing the circuit board, I found a module was loose where it was soldered onto the board, the soldering had actually cracked, so a friend of mine soldered it back like it should be. I put everything all back together and plugged up the dryer and all was good...
for about 2 minutes, then it started beeping continuously all over again. So from what I have read and watched on YouTube, once the beeping starts, and oh yeah there was the random light show also, all the little lights jumping around, so when this happens then it is time to replace the board. Oh well, the dryer was made in 2007 and the set was a gift so, I will replace the circuit board for about 125 bucks and maybe get another 10 years or so out of this set. It's been one of those days for sure. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...75fe98df75.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...07408239a0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a64d6b1433.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...de70d448f5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e6eaafb6f4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a8d3479aa9.jpg

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^^^ to clarify. This set is 14 years old and we were given the set about 10 years ago. Brother-in-law and Sister-in-law had bought a house and the washer and dryer set were left in the house, they had a new set so they gave this set to us. So far it has been a good set. The only other thing I have had to do to the dryer was grease the bearing about a month ago. Good times.

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Buttoned up the oil pan and suspension on the 330, and took it for a drive. So far so good, but just need to find time to rebuild the engine. I’m off the first week of January, so that’ll be a good time to pull it apart and get started.

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Got the backsplash grouted and everyone is happy with it, including me. I am a little fussy and I am pleased with my first attempt at doing mosaic tile.

Put up some new kitchen lights today. Holy crap! I think that I will need to find a dimmer for these. LEDs and only 46 watts each x 2.

My dryer update: well dang, I love it when things work out!!! Called around and looked online and the circuit panel prices ranged from 175 bucks to 145 bucks. My wife needed to dry some towels so I was able to get the beeping to stop while the towels dried, it actually still worked and when the cycle finished, the continuous beeping started all over again so I unplugged the dryer. Ahhhhhh, when I unplugged it, I noticed the plug was very hot and one spade of the plug nearly burned my finger!!!! That particular spade was very discolored and the rubber around it was a bit crispy and burnt. Wow!!!! I bought a new power cord for 20 bucks, installed it and just like that, no more dancing lights or beeps and the dryer is working perfectly once again. Awesome!!!! So in retrospect, I think the cracked solder where that module was attached to the circuit board was caused by the faulty power cord. Anyway, I fixed my dryer for 20 bucks!!!
So stoked!!!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e841fde5ee.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...cbe8911d8b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0ab9f73901.jpg

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Pulling transmission out of 71 Charger

Aw man, auto or manual? That's cooler than working on a dryer any day.

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plowing snow with the quad & blade.

Removed the lights I had installed yesterday. After an hour of operation both fixtures started to flicker. Was driving me crazy.
Very dark kitchen right now! Need to find a solution for that tomorrow.

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I started today's project in the garage rebuilding my Impact wrench. It would just start spinning when hooked to the air hose. Deep in the bowels of the handle is the seal that got hard, and looked like a mouse had chewed on it. I could not find any instructions from YouTube for my model. Just a 13 second video of some guy with the same problem I had. So I pretended I was back in the olden days before the internet, and figured it myself. Not really that hard once I got the rubber outer grip off, and figured out how to push in the two clips, and pull the part above from the handle.

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Then I tackled my throttle position sensor on my 86 El Camino. I can't just order parts for it by car type, because back when I took the original carburetor off, the throttle body setup is mostly built of parts from a fuel injected pickup in a junkyard. Again no real instructions, but it is just a G body FI setup and similar to others. I figured it out once again with no real instructions.

The good news is a Made in USA TPS is just $32 delivered to my door.

I converted the Elky to fuel injection over 12 years ago, and +100K miles ago. I would have to get out my records to find the exact mileage and date. It was the best thing I ever did to that car. Since then, it starts and runs like a modern car and no more hesitation. Now days there are dozens of turnkey kits to do that conversion. Not back then, I was ahead of my time I guess. It still runs great, so I have no desire to fix it if it ain't broken.

727 Automatic

Yep, that is what is in my 1968 Dodge truck.
318, 727 Torqueflight, 3:55 Suregrip. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a84b717fd5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bc6a98c9ea.jpg

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working on my bosses truck 06 chevy 1500 had a missfire and bad injector. Found out it also needs front pads, wheel bearing, transmission lines, power steering cooler bypass, oil change, inspection, tire needed reseal, front brake hoses are bad too. Its turning into a bit of a job

71AMC Zcode
 

My first car... Still have my original wife too;)http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1640062558.jpg

Disc Grinder PSA. Poor guy effectively shaved off the dorsum of his finger.

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I knew my brakes needed to be done.

I paid for the WHOLE brake pad, so I'm going to use the WHOLE brake pad! :)

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Bill, did you get that sorted? LED's and dimmers are a subject unto themselves. You said it was bright but you didn't say you actually installed a dimmer. I've recently had trouble with in-line cord dimmers on table lamps that weren't rated for LED. When that happens all sorts of strange things go on (and off).

I had never installed a dimmer with those lights. I had checked the wiring from the fixture back to the panel and found no issues. It was interesting that the lights would operate correctly until after an hour and then the flickering would begin. I ended up buying some home depot track lighting and returning the other lights.

The lamps I installed were dimmable leds and after I installed a dimmer that would work with them. Quite happy with this.

I had converted some low voltage pendants to line voltage with some Depot pendant light kits that were available, Worked out really well.

I know track isn't the most fashionable thing right now but if it keeps me from crawling around in the attic space, it is money well spent.

Finally got around to continuation of the front deck project - Phase 3.

Put up a section of 6'x8' bamboo siding. Goes well with the Polynesian theme I have going here. I have more work to do on that side so for now just tied it off of two of the 4x4 posts.

Phase 4 will be another extension of the deck outwards toward the front of the property. As it is sloped, this will provide useful square footage where before it was not. I plan to do this in tiers and will be built to encircle my specimen 5 trunk Pygmy Date Palm.

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Not from today, but from earlier this week. I'll spare the photograph of the finger.

Disc grinder PSA: this guy shaved off the dorsum (top) of his middle finger in a moment of inattention.

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Finished my rat rod front suspension, brakes, steering rack relocated. It has the original factory big brakes but the lowering spindle that was already installed is for standard application. I had to press on a sleeve over the inside bearing surface to accommodate the larger bearing. Then I had the bolt pattern changed, and the inside bearing cup machined .200" farther down.

I installed a Thunderbird power rack / pinion but needed to be relocated rearward to correct the steering geometry. I'm not sure if there is enough swing out at the tire when turned to lock, but I'll know when I drive it.

The front A frame was narrowed considerably, they retained the original truck lower control arms but used Camaro tubular upper control arms. All in all a real pain in the @ss with a mash up of different parts. Really, had I done it originally, I would've bought / installed a complete mustang II sub frame / steering assy and called it a day. You can only save so much money before it costs you 10 X the labor:cool::rolleyes:

Well, the other day I had posted about working on my dryer. I ended up replacing the control board after all. My wife and kids had been telling me of a funny smell, said it smelled like fish, coming from around the dryer, so yesterday I set out to investigate the funny smell. I pulled the dryer out from the wall, disconnected the vent hose thinking I would find some damp lint or something in there but it was clean. Okay, we had been using the dryer prior to my investigation by the way. So, next thing I did was unplug the dryer and when I did, I discovered the plug was hot and it had started melting around one of the spade/prongs, and this was a brand new power cord too. So, I got out the multimeter and checked the voltage in the outlet and it was as it should be. Next thing I did, I flipped the breaker off and took the cover off of the outlet and found a connector in the outlet was loose and was very burnt. Ah ha!!!! Off to Home Depot I go. They replaced my power cord free of charge and I got a new outlet. I am 100% convinced that this outlet is what caused the circuit board to start acting crazy. So, all is good now. I replaced the outlet and power cord.
Here are pics of the old outlet, you can see melted plastic on the backside, the new one and new power cord.
I'm glad I found this as this is what let's the smoke out of houses ya know. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...107120f962.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...014db2cf34.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5d0db15795.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...80a4343c07.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...fc06440399.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...eb3d90e460.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9891423967.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a9bf086053.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...945c191bb2.jpg

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Hobie, I would say you need a plastic grommet, metal clamp, or a similar here. Vibrations will cause the sheet-metal to cut into the cord.

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Those outlets are sketchy! I had one on a house i was remodeling and plugged the stove in and the two terminals shorted together a lightning bolt came out! Who designs this crap. The new one looks much better with the divider

This is how it came from the factory but, good idea!!! I could take some rubber fuel line or vacuum line, split it and fit it over the edges of the hole there. Thanks!!!

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The house was built in 1977 and I believe that outlet was original to the house. I definitely like the design of the new one better and they were both from the same manufacturer.

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you can get grommets at the local hardware store, pop it in and forget about it

but I did exatly what you described for my swamp cooler in California and it rusted out after 15 years before any other problem came up

Good to know. Thanks.

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Apparently older Subaru fuel lines don't like -30 to -40 degree weather, so I'll be replacing some of them today since they started dripping gasoline on top of the engine. :p

Trying to repair the wiring on my brother's TR-7.
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LOL......I had two of them. Both drop head coupes. First was a silver '79 and the second was a white '80. Then I bought a '76 coupe parts car.

I kept and maintained the '80 for quite a few years. When I sold it a bunch of spare parts went with it.

Heck....I drove it to my brother's one summer back in the 90's and the gearbox went out just shy of the NC/Va state line. My brother drove down and we trailered it to his house. Then I called my buddy in Lehigh Acres, where I was living at the time (near Ft. Myers) and he broke into my garage and shipped to me a spare tranny I had. I changed it out on my brother's driveway and was able to drive back home - no worries. They are really easy to work on. I also kept extra cylinder heads and got so I could change one out in less than 1 hour.

The amount of money I sent to Victoria British over the years......:eek:

Here it is in '98 a few years after I moved here - and not long before I sold her.......

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Working on my '02 Silverado. Passenger door wouldn't latch.

I have a replacement latch assembly coming from Amazon - only $36.

Funny thing is I ordered it this morning and it stated Friday delivery.

For some reason I looked at my order again just a little while ago and realized I ordered the wrong side. Cancelled that order and re-ordered the right side and now it's coming tomorrow.

They're not called "Door latch assemblies" BTW. The proper name is: "Power Door Lock Actuator w/latch assembly."

Plow truck needs a new floor . I put it off way past what is acceptable . Cab is resting on the frame.
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