Question on water heater fittings

[john70t]

(this should be in the "what are you fixin today?" thread but there is a time sensitivity issue. I stink)

Something sounded funny downstairs today and thankfully the spray was caught within a few minutes.
Everything water/blower vent/gas was shut off immediately.
It could have turned out very differently..


The water was first drained. It was clear as day after being flushed last year.
The 13yo AO Smith has some external rust around all the outside joints, and severe corrosion on the end of the copper overflow pipe.

Internally it looks good, but there seems to be some electrostatic reaction occurring.

The connector was un-sweated to give some head space and the rest of the copper supply flexed out of the way.
That crack of it breaking loose was the most satisfying thing I've heard.
Rust was continuously blown out of the base while doing this. There's nothing like a clogged other valve to take up another day.



There was no light through the extracted stub pipe because it was clogged with a small rubber disk:


My buddy had helped me replace the other pipe (held on by literally two threads) a few years ago, and I noticed it also had the same thing stuck inside:


The questions:
1). What are those rubber disks?
Is there supposed to be a special base gasket under the stub pipe?

2). Should the water heater not be grounded?
(The blower fan is grounded to the tank, but I'm not sure what that is grounded to.)

My understanding is that electrolysis occurs with dis-similar metals in contact, especially with electricity present.
The original copper-to-galvenized fittings don't have the internal plastic spacers, but the new ones do have them.

3). Should the tank be sitting on a special base?
It is currently sitting on rusty metal shim plates on the concrete floor which could serve as ground.

4). Should the tank be bolted to the floor?
Those fittings were a bear while it was twisting around.

[ossiblue]

Those are dielectric heat trap nipples. The blue plastic is to reduce electrolysis between dissimilar metals. The flaps are to reduce heat loss from convection when the heater is not drawing water. They operate like a check valve when no water pressure is present. The flaps open in the direction of water flow—inward into the tank for cold, outward from the tank for hot.

[Bill Douglas]

Well done.

But when dealing with water cylinders, break the seal/get some movement in the joint while it's still full of water. It sounds odd but the internals are quite thin and the water gives it a bit more structural strength. If a drip or two comes out you can retighten the connection. Then drain and carry on.

[MBAtarga]

Your questions 2, 3 and 4 are likely dependent on your local code and/or location of the water heater.

[john70t]

Thanks for the replies, and thanks for that especially good tip Bill.

Ended up with an out-of-round copper pipe end which will have to be cut back or more.
Didn't think I had wrenched on that section of pipe.
Perhaps maybe from the last guy suffering this.

At the store I also wasn't able to find any type of internal pipe-expander tool for 3/4" copper to make it round again (with heat of course).
Those tools are pretty common stock for car exhaust pipes...but not for plumbing?

-----------------------------

Went to the box store tonight and the nice gent recommended some extras I would have forgotten.
-At first he recommended a Shark-Bite flex hose which would have made the job easy, except only one was stocked which was too long.

-Then he recommended a common thin cast iron piece, but that wasn't the right part.
(Employees can be good but not great sometimes. We only understand what we experience.)

-Then he recommended stub fittings which looks about right, but the box store only stocked one length.
They will probably work. Will adjust as necessary of course.
Cold shower tonight.

-He recommended using MAPP gas instead of propane, which does nothing slowly.

[john70t]

Only one of four plumbing companies even bothered to call back to say they couldn't do the job.
Same as before. Geesh this town..
That company will be at the top of my list on the next project.

If I was some customer and didn't know where the 'water main shutoff valve' is located.....I'd be swimming by now.


As a reminder to all:
Flush that water heater and replace the galvanized rod inside every three years. Check those 1/4 turn shutoff valves everywhere and the water main shutoff because they will probably not operate correctly and will probably start leaking as soon as you start messing with them, so be prepared. Clean those furnace filters. Get a CO and water alarm or two and stock up on extra 9Vs.

[dad911]

If you must make solder, Mapp gas definitely makes it easier. Get new flux, like oatey 95, which has tin/solder in the flux.

However, a new torch etc can buy alot of pex or sharkbites.