Back down a torque wrench that is in constant use ?
 

Just wondering. I know you are supposed to wind down a torque wrench for storage , down to its lowest setting .
I of course have good wrenches for motor work etc, but also have wrenches that I basically only use to torque wheels, and maybe steering knuckles .
I use it constantly, it probably torques 100 fasteners a day . I find my self constantly winding it up and down.
Most everything I torque is right in the range of 85-110. My older one just failed, not the head, but the mechanism that sets the torque . I think it just wore out, from being turned up and down 10 times a day , 6 days a week, 52 weeks a year etc....
I think I am just going to leave my new one set at 100.
The longest it ever sits , is overnight .

I'm a novice, and my POS Craftsman is toast...'cause of that...

Leave it alone...yep.

Maybe look into getting a few pre-set torque wrenches for your most commonly-used values.

If you use it frequently during the day, leave it where it is until the next job - I would set it to MIN when putting it to bed overnight. Yes even good torque wrenches lose their range. I have mine calibrated / adjusted once a year.

In your case probably better to leave it set, it should take a long time for the spring to loose its set tension. You can always check it after some time against another calibrated torque wrench to verify.

I back the down because I do not use them every day. Harbor Freight one just does wheel and Snap On for real work. Thought about getting one of these, Just turn a ratchet into an instant touque wrench.
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-M206-Digital-Adapter/dp/B00EDEDKHE/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3FFBF0GEYO1Z3&keywords=torque+cali brator+tool&qid=1565306948&s=gateway&sprefix=torqu e+ca%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-2

When I get my torque wrench out it normally stays at the torque setting until the end of the day. I back it down when I put my tools away at the end of the day.

I back down my T wrench every use.



and don't slam Craftsman, at least MY wrench.


I worked at Boeing Cal Cert Tooling dept.


it was withing 5-10 pound of spec control compared to snap-on.



Note. Boeing has 6 FOOT long torque wrenches for tightening the 3 NUTS that hold the engine onto the pylon.

Certain ones don't need to be backed down- Precision instruments / Snappy with the little knob on the side used by tire shops comes to mind.

If it's one that has the old handle you turn (HF has 'em everywhere) then ya, undo it.

This lil monster is what the Snappy is at about 1/2 the cost (Precision makes Snappy). I have the snappy version, best tool I own. I treat it like it's royalty.

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-PREC3FR250F-Silver-Torque/dp/B002XMSFIM/ref=pd_sbs_328_2/137-2326478-3912301?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002XMSFIM&pd_rd_r= 61ef3011-242f-4d72-8c31-d684eaef26b3&pd_rd_w=HU6la&pd_rd_wg=Hw6Gw&pf_rd_p= 43281256-7633-49c8-b909-7ffd7d8cb21e&pf_rd_r=VCY9ENNM6TWNVXY00979&psc=1&re fRID=VCY9ENNM6TWNVXY00979

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....L._SL1500_.jpg

only spring types need to be "backed down" as leaving them tight puts a "set" on the spring (alters k, the spring constant)

the digital types use a load cell and do not need this (generally more accurate too) - I bought some used Snap-Off ones on evilbay

the beam type ones 'back off' on their own

This thread reminds me.. I need a 3/8
 

Problem solved :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1565310311.jpg

Why would you not use a digital one?

I will trade you :). Purchased after I acquired my 911 years ago, and backed down after each use. The cheap plastic locking thingy is frozen, and of course Craftsman quit "standing behind" their products by then/now. That's the one I used the most....but not even broken in before it broke really :(.

Just bought one almost $800.00. I keep that in its case, in my safe deposit box at the bank next to my last will and testament .:)
Cant bring myself to use an expensive one to beat around the shop all day torquing pick up truck wheels , and I guarantee that a cheapo digital will be broken in 6 months.

A beam TW was mentioned. Why not that for lug nuts, etc.? Close enough.

Do any of you have good ones for inch-pounds?

Dial torque wrench
 

We only used Sanp-On dial torque wrenches when I worked at the shipyard (Norfolk Naval Shipyard), mainly torqueing fasteners for pipe flanges as a pipefitter (both non-nuc and nuc systems). These, like beam types, do not have to be relaxed after use and give you an idea where you are at in the torqueing process. Always use at 1/4 to 7/8 of the scale. A 0-175 ft-lb is currently listed on e-bay for $125. I much prefer the dial type to the clicker type myself, but that's was I basically cut my teeth on.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1565365653.png

Park Tool USA - From a bicycle shop etc. Beam type

Awesome, thank you!

I always thought a 'beam' style torque wrench had a long indicator that moved over an arced scale. There is no way to "relax" that.

Perhaps you are referring to a 'click' style TW.

Correct, the dial type and beam type return to zero when not in use and do not have a mechanism that needs to be relaxed. The clicker type has to be set for the desired torque and that mechanism evidently can wear out after much use if constantly set and relaxed (I've never taken one apart, so not exactly sure what the mechanism is) or the mechanism (spring?) will stretch over time if not relaxed, resulting in inaccurate readings. The beam type is usually not as precise due to the narrow arc of the deflecting beam scale. The dial type is very similar to the beam type, but more precise with the increased rotation of the needle on the scale. But I haven't spent much time torqueing fasteners in a while, so my memory might be a bit cloudy on the details!:D

Not always easy to read a beam, dial, or digital wrench...some jobs are such that they can't be seen. Thus, the click.

This seems a great solution for Fred's lug nut work...save the torque wrench for more critical work.

Split beam all day long.

https://smile.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-PREC3FR250F-Silver-Torque/dp/B002XMSFIM/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1CFBKD7JYHRUZ&keywords=split+beam+ torque+wrench&qid=1565470565&s=gateway&sprefix=spl it+beam+tor%2Caps%2C195&sr=8-1

Accurate and super easy to set. Because of the way it is built, you do not need to relax them.

This one on ebay is like my Snap on. $154 shipped. Unfortunately mine was near $500 at time of purchase so I take very good care of it. Including backing it down when I am done with it.

https://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/...wJa/s-l225.jpg

Maybe Jeff H will chime in but at Boeing, we were taught to not to lower it to zero, but at the bottom 20% of its max IIRC.