Damn Rust
 

Found this on my 2007 F150 about a month ago. Other than this rust the truck is very well maintained and like new with 260000 miles . Would really like to take care of it. Funny place for rust, just below the topper. Wondering how to fix before it eats through and spreads. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571002283.jpg

The truck looks great for 260khttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571002781.jpg

Another pichttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571003028.jpg

I'm pretty sure that step 1 is to remove the topper and check the extent of damage. I would assume that you'd then either need to grind down to clean metal or maybe that stuff that converts rust to a black durable finish is good enough, then paint.

I'm guessing that grit gets between the topper and bed and grinds away the paint until moisture can do it's thing. So I'd think that you'd need something to protect the top of the bed. I wonder if you could get a cap on the top of the bed out of a thin coat of spray on bed liner as a protectant for once it's repaired.

I'm sure some others will have better thoughts about how to fix the current damage.

Ospho after a good wire brushing.

Then prime and paint.

Thanks Steve, I have think your right about the grit. You think cleaning down to bare metal, then maybe good primer to kill the rust and spray bed liner between topper and side of bed? Sounds like a good idea. Hope to do before the weather gets too bad.

Nice truck. I had a 2005 I put nearly 200k on before I sold it in 2015.

Same interior!

As mentioned, top off, get a better idea of the spread and depth of the rust. Don’t be surprised if it is more advanced than it appears.

I fixed the rust on the hood of my 1996 Land Cruiser two weeks ago and was amazed how deep the rust went, all appearances to the contrary...one rust bubble was the proverbial tip of the rustburg:cool:

The good news is that you’ll still have a great looking truck.

I have had luck in the past with applying thin oil (wd or lps) every couple of days for a while (at least couple of weeks) and then clean, sandblast and prime, have not tried any of the new chemical treatment products. I found with just sanding and no oil it would still be small spots still active and work its way through again.

because there is a bio component to rust GROWTH
there is something alive growing in the rust making it grow
it is not just a pure chemical process
that is why it has to all be removed or it regrows

Paul, it’s been such a good truck, I want to keep it until at least 300k. A good friend mine had one amazing looking and trouble free F150 at 300K. Unfortunately, someone slide through an intersection and totaled it out at 300K.

If you don't grind to shiny metal or apply a chemical to convert the rust to something that's not rust, the rust will come back. If you wire brush the rust until it's smooth, but still not shiny, then you're going to have problems again.

My experience is that a wire brush won't fix rust.

Hope the rust isn’t to deep. If it is, I’ll have to take it to a body shop. Plan on doing something next weekend.

Buy a sand blaster at harbor freight assuming you have a compressor, with sand/ beads blast off rust and primer and paint. Go well beyond the rusty area. Seems to work for me. Good luck.

I've watched people who own a certain cult vehicle that is notorious for seam rust try everything except the really nice $250,000 backpack laser units...

a Fein multi-tool works well

some say this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-Rotary-Tool-Kit-with-Flex-Shaft-2305/203604481
with a thin saw blade and/or think disc grinder type tool is 5x better than the Fein

others like an airbrush or pinstriping brush with silica sand blaster setup

one of the above must be best... use 3M 8310 seam sealer afterwards

I've never heard of anybody use vapor blasting, but...



https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=37&v=xfczxBWJuNg

In the " old days " :rolleyes: before you installed a truck cap you would apply one to two layers of truck cap tape on the truck side rails and the front . This tape was maybe 1/8 to 3/16 thick and self adhesive on one side . I always liked installing two layers with the second layer overlapping the first layer at the seams . The tape performs several jobs , one it makes water intrusion difficult and two it provides a barrier for the top and the truck to " move " without rubbing against each other . That rubbing is the action that slowly sands away at the paint/primer and allows rust to start .

In your case go ahead and pull the cap off the truck , do whatever you are going to do to stop/clean up the rust and finish the repair . Then reinstall the cap using the cap tape .

Cheap! Only $500K

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The "cheap" 50W version is only $13,500!

https://www.amazon.com/DIHORSE-Hand-Held-Cleaning-Machine-Removal/dp/B07RTWGS24?th=1

What about bio-degradable walnut shells?
Or baking soda after a acid-phosphate treatment?

The sand seems like it would make a mess everywhere outside an enclosed blasting cabinet.

or dry ice


or dried lice

Im just jealous that you consider that rust.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1572049841.jpg

I then sanded with a 24 grit sanding disc on an angle grinder, sanded edges with 180 grit sand paper, applied Bondi, sanded again with 180, and repeated the Bondi and sanding. Then etching primer, surface primer, sanded and applied 3 coats of paint, 2 clear coat, and blending solvent.