I was told this by the door company. Who know why, why is anything against code?

Some are ugly/industrial looking, but I found some that look pretty much like plain residential garage doors.

As far as being against code, I noticed that many of these doors have various wind ratings. Maybe they aren’t great in hurricanes, so not allowed in places like Florida.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1581482252.jpg

Insulated roll up door at the shop.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1581487038.jpg

[QUOTE=McLovin;10749824] Maybe they aren’t great in hurricanes, so not allowed in places like Florida.


Woooo,scary stuff storms. But I had a storm that was rated (in a bit less windy part of the bay) at 128MPH and my roller garage doors survived it.

I've owned houses with both panel doors and roll up. (near the ocean = windy)

Day to day there really is no difference.

My dad has these on his garage at home. They have no insulation, they rattle in the wind, but have otherwise held up fine for 33 years.

I went through this myself on my home renovation. I ended up with a horizontal garage door. The outfit I purchased from has been acquired since. They are here
https://solidodesigns.com/

https://solidodesigns.com/contour-closures/

the bottom 2 photos in the gallery from the link above are my project. I looked at roll up doors, bi fold and Hydraulic top hinged hanger doors from Schweiss, and carriage style doors. The horizontal was the best and most cost effective solution to allow me overhead clearance to stack cars in my garage.

Scott ,what else can you tell about that shop? Kit? That looks doable at my place;)

Thanks,Stevehttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat.gif

That is a really cool solution and one I was not aware of. You lose some floor space but gain the ability to partly open your door as a man door.

How is it holding up?

^^^ OK, those horizontal garage doors area a pretty neat product. And they look good, too. But are they considerably more expensive than traditional sectional overhead garage doors?

Weight is the main problem with a roll up.

I looked into a roll up door as my 4 post lift is right against the door. Problem is that if the garage was not structurally built/framed to support it then it's a no-go. The roll up doors are VERY heavy. There are very nice looking steel roll ups out there that my HOA would allow but they weigh too much.

Perhaps if you are in a situation where aesthetics does not matter you could find a fiberglass roll up door (if there is such a thing?) and save the weight to make it work...will be ugly but lighter.

The weight of the roll up on the big shop my brother has is about 3x's what the small shop doors weigh in my estimation. It is a steel door that is really heavy, and has a chain for raising it that is not light weight either. The small shop doors are aluminum (I'm guessing) and have a thin bit of insulation on them that makes them fairly quiet when being rolled up. They only have a pull up/down string attached to the bottom for opening/closing them.

The system is holding up fine after 2 years. I’ve had to make some adjustments to the door once or twice when it hung up opening/closing. I suspect expansion/contraction over change of seasons was the cause.

I purchased my horizontal door from Contour Closures. If I understand correctly, the proprietor (a gent named Tyler) is/was the first to secure UL approval for this type of door system in the US. They are more common in Europe. He sources the door sections from the same North American manufacturers that produce residential overhead doors, so I believe the costs are similar.

They really don't fail that often.

Mine has never given me trouble and is at least 30 years old. My dad has three, all varying between 40 and 50 years old, and they all still work just fine. Never had to take any of them down for maintenance, and all they require is a bit of dry lube in the rails.. The only issue is that they use nylon strips to stop metal to metal contact between the door and rails, and these wear out over time. Misalignment is solved by winding the springs independently to make up for slack on one side or the other.

I know I'm sidestepping the question but...

I had a high lift garage door kit installed instead, cost me $800 to retrofit, much cheaper.

"but that's not what I asked and I need more vertical space" you say ?

Well no, from experience, if you park a 911 backwards (or a non wagon sedan forward), due to the extra height, the high lift garage door will STOP in the horizontal plane way before you need the extra space for the roof of your car. It'll essentially be over the hood or the trunk of the upstairs car only... Hope that makes sense... cheaper option.

I've installed two second hand ones. they're not that complicated. In my old age I wouldn't consider such a stunt, but when young strong and little money I made it happen.