Residential electrical help!
 

Kinda confused.
Plastic 3 gang box.
3 on/off with dimmer switches stopped working.
2 go to multiple recessed lights, 1 goes to ceiling fan with multiple lights.
No lights or fan work.
Breaker feeds this box and several others, which are working.
Verified 120V at inlet of each switch using the common neutral to complete the circuit.
Verified 120V at outlet of each switch with switch in on position.
Verified 0V at outlet of each switch with switch in off position.
So all switches appear to be fine.
No way 10 light bulbs and a fan all stop working simultaneously.
Not sure what to do now?
Thinking of swapping a switch from a working circuit?

Bad neutral early in the circuit?

How are you measuring 120v?

Measuring using a Fluke multimeter across common black to common white.

Redid my tests this morning, and I realized that I did not use the common neutral when testing the switches in the on position, I used the ground.
I get 120V with the switch in the off position using hot inlet and common neutral.
I get 120V withe the switch in the on position using hot outlet and ground.
However, I do not get 120V with the switch in the on position using hot outlet and common neutral.
So on my way to the panel to inspect the neutral connection on the bus bar.
Maybe a loose connection that gives 120V at low amps, but not 120V at full load amps.
We will see!

All connections in panel were tight and looked good.
Turned all 3 switches on and have 0V from common hot to common neutral.
Turn all 3 switches off and have 120V from common hot to common neutral.
Sorta thinking breaker, but there are other lighting gang boxes on this circuit that are working.
???

I think you are correct.
Some neutral connection in another gang box is loose.
Now the fun begins!

Ok, so now TOTALLY confused!
Took the cover plate off the gang box next to the non working one to see the neutral connections.
Just getting ready to cut out some sheet rock to trace wires.
5 year old wakes up from her nap and comes to see what I am doing.
I show her the working switches, and then the non working switches, and the non working ones were all working!!
No idea what I did, but its fixed now.
I did put a screw driver on the neutral connection in the panel, but it was tight.
I hate fixing stuff with no idea what I did.

Sometimes just picking up a screwdriver scares stuff into being right. For example, the mere sight of me with a chainsaw at high noon scares the Chief Sandwicher into action.

Don't cut drywall, not yet and I don't think it necessary. Yep, somewhere there's a loose connection. Open your switch plates and pull the switches out starting from the bad switches and work upstream. No need for anything fancy, just a simple tester will do (I really don't think you need it). Don't ground the tester to the grounding screw, touch the hot and neutral. I bet you the lazy electrician didn't twist the wires together and did not tighten up a wire nut well. Also, tighten all neutral screws that are connected to all switches.

It could be that your wire was cut during installation when the house was built, but its highly unlikely.

Loose neutrals will make a slight hissing noise

Not if behind switch plate and not connected.

Have you looked at the switch? I had a rash of bad switches in my office. They used these "push in" connectors instead of the regular screw type terminals. The internal tabs broke. I have replaced at least 3 of these.

Yup, these are the push in types.
But all three in one gang box?
There are dozens throughout the house.
Regardless, I *fixed* it!!
Miller time by the fire pit. :)

I never use the stab or backstab connectors. I just don't trust them.
Try going through the switches and outlets first and either install new switches using the screw terminal connectors or re utilize the old. I would go new.

Billy, the issue I found was the stab overtime weakened the internal connection. Both the screw terminal and the stab went to the same connection. Once broken, neither would work. A quick swap with a new switch fixed it.

Huh, well school is out for me today. Thanks RB!

You weren't testing "amps" you were testing voltage. An open neutral can show low voltage but apparently you had a definite 'open' neutral condition. When you opened the second box you disturbed a neutral connection to go back to continuity — barely. And that's a problem. You must undo neutrals to find the one that is/was arcing, getting hot and moving away to disconnect. It will only get worse.

Yep, he need to open up and tighten up every single one of those gawddamn wire nuts along with the screw on the switched. I never use those push in thingys. Always wrap the wire around the screw. Also, don't buy the 99c switch or outlets.