Gas dryer quit getting hot...

[Scott Douglas]

Good thing it happened on the LAST load of the day and on one of the hottest days of the year we've had so far.

Am I being optimistic enough?

Rigged up a temp clothes line on the back patio to hang the wet towels on. Thankfully the washer spins the majority of the water out of them so they're not too damp.

Our Maytag gas dryer decided to give it up this afternoon.
We got it used when our old used (mother-in-law hand-me down) electric died a lot of years ago. I was going gas finally at that time. The guy we got it from found a match to the washer we had, so it was a nice one looks wise.

I'm very hesitant to not fix this one as they don't build 'em like they used to, so I don't really want a new one.

I'm pretty sure I can diagnose the problem, only trouble is the heat out in the garage today. It's about 120* out there now as the sun is just now hitting the garage door.

So, it spins fine, pretty sure it's blowing fine too, just isn't getting hot.

What do you guys think?
Ignitor switch first, then gas solenoids?
Suggestions welcome.

[dad911]

I assume you checked the dryer vent? Spoken from experience......

[Scott Douglas]

(sigh) My wife has been after me to do that recently, but no, I have not checked it. I don't think it would have dried clothes all morning and stopped getting hot because of that, but, I could be wrong. One thing I like about this Maytag is that it moves a lot of air compared to other dryers.

That will be the first thing I look at when I drag it out tomorrow morning. Just too dang hot out there right now.

[cabmandone]

Hot surface ignitor took a crap. Easy to check. Pull the bottom cover where the burner is located. Turn the dryer on and watch for the hot surface ignitor to glow. Odds are it wont.

[Scott Douglas]

Yeah, it is old and probably the first thing to go.

[cabmandone]

IF the vent is plugged enough, it will cause a limit switch (manual reset I think) to open. There should be a wiring diagram on that cover at the bottom. Probably two limit switches. If it's auto reset, you'll be able to start the dryer and it will work but then as the heat can't escape through the vent, it builds up and the limit opens again.

HSI's are pretty much a common maintenance item. I try to keep one on hand for each of my gas appliances.

[Scott Douglas]

I think the vent is open as I can feel the air going thru it when I turn it on. I don't hear the usual 'whoosh' of ignition though from the burner so I don't think it's lighting off, so probably the HSI like you say.

[Scott Douglas]

If it is the HSI, my big problem will be getting one. We have a local store, Appliance Parts Bank, but I'm not sure if they're open with this Covid-19 thing happening.

[Tobra]

Originally Posted by cabmando

Hot surface ignitor took a crap. Easy to check. Pull the bottom cover where the burner is located. Turn the dryer on and watch for the hot surface ignitor to glow. Odds are it wont.

This, if you are lucky, you can use a universal one that works for the furnace good advice about having a spare ESPECIALLY if it is the furnace

You are going to end up getting it online, probably. I tried to source one locally, from a brick and mortar vendor, no joy

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by Scott Douglas

If it is the HSI, my big problem will be getting one. We have a local store, Appliance Parts Bank, but I'm not sure if they're open with this Covid-19 thing happening.

You can find them online. Your dryer might be down a few days but you should be able to source one fairly quickly. I had one for one of my gas furnaces but it was just enough different in the mount that it wouldn't work. You should be able to open the door, pull the model and serial number of the dryer and locate the right HSI for it. I'd start with making sure you don't have an open Limit switch though. If the limit it open due to a vent with buildup, the HSI won't ignite.

[cabmandone]

BTW, only touch the mount of the HSI. If you touch the element, it'll fry pretty quickly. When looking at the element, there will typically be a white spot where it cooked.

[Tobra]

Yeah, think of the element like you would a halogen headlight bulb, no touching. I wore nitrile gloves, just in case.

[Scott Douglas]

Guess I should brave the heat and go get the model/serial number now while the car is out of the way.

It will be nice having a fresh air dried towel to dry off with after my shower tonight. (Trying like he!! to stay positive about this. How am I doing?)

[Scott Douglas]

I really don't like poking around electrical stuff at all so I won't be touching much of anything.

[Scott Douglas]

The dryer being down a couple days won't phase me. My wife on the other hand I'm not too sure about that. I don't think she has to shrink any fabric for her latest quilt build so she should be OK.

[pete3799]

Another vote for igniter. Happened to ours last year. Purchased on line but can't remember the name of the place off hand.

Edit
I think this might be the place
https://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-dryer-igniter-kit-279311-ap3094138.html

[Scott Douglas]

I found a site that has all the parts I think I'll need.

https://www.partselect.com/Models/MDG9806AWW/

Looks like I could replace just about everything that could go wrong with it for under $150. I may have already replaced the timer switch, but now that I think about it, that was on the washing machine.
One thing I like about the Maytags is that they are simpler than say a GE, at least that is how it was with the washer when it went belly up (our GE, not our Maytag).

[billybek]

What brand of drier?
I have had a fused limit (non resettable) go twice on the Whirlpool gas drier. I have a sneaky suspicion that it fails because the lint screen hasn't been cleaned properly.
Do you have a multi meter?
Yes? Pull the back off the drier and start it and look for full potential (120vac typically) across the limits in the back. There will be one high on the drum and one low by the vent.
I think the limit switch/fuse was about $20 CAD and very easy to find and replace.

[Scott Douglas]

It's a Maytag.
Yes I have a multi meter.
I'll be checking other things first before I go poking around 120VAC connections thank you.

[billybek]

Originally Posted by Scott Douglas

It's a Maytag.
Yes I have a multi meter.
I'll be checking other things first before I go poking around 120VAC connections thank you.

Lol. I saw that you were hesitant to do that after I had posted.

It is really not that big of a deal though. If you see one wire going into a molded plastic looking thing and another one coming out, with your meter on AC volts put one lead on each side of the control or limit. If you see 120 vac, that is where the power to start the burner stops.

Don't want to talk you into anything that you are not comfortable with.