Sealing a double door
 

Hey all,

Our main house door is a double swinging door. Between the two doors there is a gap that ranges from 1/16" to as much as 3/16". These are older doors and so not perfectly straight.

I'm looking for a way to seal the gaps around the edges for winter. The biggest problem spot is between the two because of the narrow gap.

Any suggestions? Do I just need to call a carpenter?

Double swinging? Like a saloon door? Or do you just mean like a French door? I assume the former.

I'm thinking something like a sweep, you just have to decide what you can live with aesthetically.

http://mdbuildingproducts.com/weathe...96097_MAIN.jpg

https://www.diydoorstore.com/assets/...brownsweep.jpg

Thanks. The threshold has a seal that works fine. its between the two doors that I have an issue.

Something like this: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/12/09...99206fb6ca.jpg

There's an overlap trim piece on the outside but it doesn't really seal and nothing seems to fit in the gap between the two.

If there is an over lapping trim piece (like in the pic), could you put a strip of foam insulation tape or something similar the length of it?

If it went on the inside, you wouldnt be able to see it unless the door was open.

^^^That would be the most unobtrusive way to do it, IMO.

Thin felt should work.

Look into stick on fin pile weather stripping.

Like most these guy's recommendation, get a thin stick on weathering stripping and stick it behind the astragal, the molding that sits vertically between the two doors.

Did someone just tell Chris to stick it up his astragal? :eek:

OK, so not saloon door, French door.

My thought for saloon door was something like
https://www.tmhardware.com/images/D/P_318AV_2_(LR).jpg

But if it's a french door with the moulding on one door that overlaps the gap, then you put something on the moulding where it faces the second door, and or something round in the corner of the moulding and door edge.
I'm thinking something like this, or a combination of things based on what would fit and do the trick. HD and the like must have 20-30 different shapes, sizes and profiles for that sort of stick on insulation. Surely a couple will fit. You just have to decide what will work the best and be the most aesthetically pleasing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1605133528.jpg

Yep, drawing number two Steve. Thanks for the drawings.

Weather-stripping can be in compression or in friction. Compression sometimes messes with the latch mechanism. Also, if the 2 doors aren't in perfect alignment from top to bottom. Compression may leave a gap at the top of bottom.

The piece that is normally between double exterior doors is known as an astrigal, as mentioned. The bulb type in drawing #1 is a little bit of both. W/o a kerf for the tab attached to many varieties of bulbs it's hard to glue and keep in place. Too much force over and over as the doors operate.

The best solution is to install a complete new astrigal that incorporates w/s. Finding one in all wood is difficult, but extruded AL models can be picked up at the box store.

https://www.thermatru.com/globalasse...sis0saal-1.jpg

These off a lot of security as well as helping stabilize the alignment. Generally you start with aligned doors with a 1/2" gap between the 2 leading edges. So, yes, if you're not much of a carpenter, you might call one. About a 2 hour job. I've installed literally hundreds of these.

Here is a simplified version that I don't favor but they work if everything is in alignment. I know I used that word quite a bit but that's the key to this problem and solution.

https://dkstatic.blob.core.windows.n...A84_100747.gif

If and older home and you wish to use traditional bronze compression weatherstripping they make a separate shallower piece to go around the latch mechanism.

Is there no kerf in the astrigal for weatherstripping? That would seem odd if it didn’t.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1605149369.jpg

Look and Zeke, I’ve always called it a t-astrigal? And wondered how to spell it after 30 years!🤪

Thanks all. I’m gonna need a carpenter. No room for any of that.

Even the thickest foam makes the doors impossible to close.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X1LPBYH/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07X1LPBYH&pd_r d_w=s2jZn&pf_rd_p=f0355a48-7e73-489a-9590-564e12837b93&pd_rd_wg=9hxSs&pf_rd_r=TYAQS7HT6WA2B6 477CBN&pd_rd_r=7eb5aa36-86da-4799-aa13-907d561dec85&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMEZM TzNJVElKV1BIJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjMzNzc1MTc1V1BLST JHNzNQMyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDE0ODk2MTdSMUgyUEsw Qk5QSCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3 Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Try this. I bet it much cheaper then a carpenter. Double up in the larger gap areas. I think you have a twist or bow on your door that's causing this issue. Take a straight edge to it and see.

Milt on a wood door setup like this do they ever add another astrigal to the inside ? Example would be semi stationary door has an astrigal on the outside that the primary door closes against . Place an astrigal on the main door on the inside so it overlaps the semi stationary door . Basically twice the sealing surface . I know it won't correct an out of plumb or warped door just curious if its ever done .

Any chance you can post some pics of the gaps and a pic of the door itself?

The issue is that the gaps are too small rather than too large. Except where they are not.

So insulation thin enough to work in one spot doesn’t work in another. ...and in so,e cases won’t allow the door to close well. Then on top of that the tile floor is set so high the door barely clears it. So sweeper seals also don’t work.

Sounds like Zeke needs to make a road trip to your house and fix several issues with the door: warped, resize, weather-strip, etc.