I bought it new about 2 years ago. I got the overarm dust collection upgrade as a "free" bonus when I purchased the saw.

The fence is of similar design to the Biesemeyer table saw fence which has been used on professional/industrial table saws since the 70's. I think the company (Biesemeyer) started out as an after market upgrade to saw manufacturer's designs - and fairly soon after, different manufacturers either licensed or copied the design for their own saw models. Delta, General, Powermatic and other brands have all had their versions. There really would not be an "upgrade" to this fence, as it's already deemed to be the best design.

Nice on the dust collection upgrade. I was thinking, based on Internet searches that it looked like one of the fences that folks would upgrade to, but I wasn't sure. That's good to know. I suspect it's cheaper to get the fence with the saw as part of an upgrade package than to do an aftermarket upgrade. It would also eliminate the need to fit the fence to the saw or whatever is required with aftermarket upgrades.

Certainly not my thing. I don't have the patience. I've read about folks buying wood that still needed to be dried which sounds like a huge pain in the rear.

I have had extensive conversations with other craftsmen about the use of hand tools. I bet if they had a power plane or a Skill saw, nail guns back 150 years ago, all would have use them too instead of holding on to a board with their toes and hands to shave the pieces to straighten a board. My father was that way. He made all his jewelries with a bunch of hand tools he made himself. He did have a torch, polisher and a couple of drills. Most of that was forged, with a hammer and no wax castings. People paid good money for that type of work. Yep, he was stubborn to use new equip. I do see the difference on the work that some machine just can't produce unlike woodworking whereas 90% of it can be produced with power equip.

There is a distinct difference between production and craft. And although I'm too practical to do all hand work mortise and tenon, I don't feel one bit of the grain of the wood using a router and table saw.

I did a video on using hand tool vs. fixtures and jigs to install an old mortise lockset. You can find it using the info below if you're interested. It was an early vid so the quality suffers from inexperience (which I still don't have much of ;):D ).

I noticed that your FB had a video the other day, so I tracked down your channel. I've watched one so far and skimmed several others that I'll be watching over the next week. I was thinking about posting a link here, but didn't want to do that since I figured if you wanted it posted, you'd have posted it yourself.

I would like to have a couple/few planes, maybe a block plane or low angle block plane. I already have a couple of planes that if I had to guess are probably #3 or #4, and then I'd like a much longer plane, like a #6. I am curious about having one of the medium planes setup as a scrub plane. I may not use them often, but I might use them from time to time, and I have enjoyed using them in the past even though they probably haven't been appropriately sharp, and I probably wasn't using them with the best technique.

I'd also eventually like to get a router plane, have a card scraper, and a brace. When I was a kid, probably somewhere between 5 and 10, I got a toolbox for Christmas one year, and in the toolbox was a brace and bit. I'm pretty sure those were gifts from my grandparents, and the brace and bit almost certainly from my grandfather. I never really did much with it, and I don't know if I still have it, but I'd like to have another even if it's a symbolic link to grandpa and the past.

I'll keep an eye out for planes at garage sales or antique shops. Who knows, maybe I'll stumble across an estate sale full of them.

I don't see myself getting a rabbet plane, shoulder plane or plow plane.

I'd like to know how to use the old tools effectively and keep them in good working shape. As I've gotten older, my interest and appreciation of the past and old ways/technology has increase exponentially.

Back in the early 90s I made a pair of solid body electric guitars. I copied the Fender Stratocaster body dimensions pretty close using Zebra Wood. I cut the first cody by hand saw then rounded the edges to match the 35th anniversary model I had at the time. I cut the notch for the neck (bought two) by hand. It made me finally get a band saw AND a router with table both from Harbor Freight. The second one went much easier and cutting the openings for the switches, pickups, wires, ETC was way easier with the router! I played them for 4 or 5 years and sold both and my amps to fellow from Tijuana who had a band so I hope they got used well.

I now have a collection of electric sander, planner, better band saw, ETC and find it easier the make my muzzle loaders.

Man, you shoulda said that earlier about that router plane. I woulda thrown that dang thing in the box too. I would need a larger box for sure with all the stuff in it. Let me look next time I go back after Thanksgiving. I might have bought that as far back as college when I was in my phase of doing old fashion hand work, playing artist in my old, tiny shop. Its a good one, Standley from the 50s, in pristine shape, bought from an old guy that dealt with high end, funky old hand tools that came to all the wood shops and selling them to cabinet makers . I am never going to use it (my guys wouldn't even look at it) so the thing sits somewhere collection dust. It better still be there since no one uses it, ever. I even made my the handles and knobs for a couple of my Jack Planes out of Cocobolo jsut for laughs. Silly how I thought I can make furniture for a living in this town.

BTW, Routers and dado sets are ways to to go for Dados. I have a panel router that I almost never use. The last time it was fired up, was over a year ago. Bosch or Amana bits are the go to. Don't waste your money in cheap bits. The don't last too long.

For now, no more hand tool work. I love my lil' Makita Power Plane. I also have a Rockwell Door plane (depth adjustment on the fly) bought new during those early years that are no longer made or sold. Milt knows what it is. Gave up my left ball for it because it was a toss up between that or paying Tuition. Only one of my guy is allow to use it because he will clean it and put it back exactly where it belongs, in my home, garage. Its still in great shape. Some things are just too important to me, too much sentimental value in them.

Maybe one day soon when I hit 55 in a couple of years, I will go back and play with building furniture again with spoke shaves, cabinet scrapers and such without having to deal with phone calls, designers and crazy "Woke"neighbors of clients?

Lots of good stuff! Hey, you may have missed it, I PMed you on Fri about the shipping.

Thanks again, for everything!

Don't mention it.

Oh, got it. I hardly look up there in that corner. Lets not worry that for now. I have to look for the receipt in my car.

OK, thanks.

This is fascinating. This guy is talking about how the blade angle on planes affects the performance of the plane on woods with difficult grain. I'd have never guessed that a less acute angle is better for difficult grain. That seems counter intuitive to me. i also didn't realize that other that getting a regular plane or a low angle plane that you can buy frogs of different angles.

<iframe width="1280" height="720" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/6fGqh42lSM0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

That is why the card scraper does such a good job. It is basically replicating a plane blade at close to a 70-80° bevel (or higher). They are relatively easy to sharpen as well.
Here's the first video I looked at as an example:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0L4Ij-xMuNU" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Also sign up to Pinterest.c o m for more ideas on everything.

This guy is clever. If you have limited room, this is just too cool. I don't know about the folding casters? I would leave them without the ability to fold to prevent tripping on them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyM6NZTRmSk

or this guy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veFh_Zwp1LA

I have a small business that repairs the older Bridge City Tools. I acquired all of the old stock of parts when the company was sold in 2018. I also have just about every tool they have produced, so getting all the repair parts was good for me personally too.

Had to dig out my VP-60 plane to figure out what parts a customer needed. This plane was made in a limited quantity of 400. It can be adjusted to have a bed angle from 30 to 60 degrees.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1606678906.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1606678940.jpg

Very cool. I also watched a Paul Sellers video on sharpening a card scraper. I'll definitely have one of those. Most of these seem to be hand held, but I've seen a couple of items that looked like a card scraper mounted in a frame for use with two hands, is that what I was seeing?
I saw a similar thing in the book that I've been reading. The wheels could be folded under the legs or not. I think the preference was to leave them tucked away if you didn't need them, but flip them out if you did. You could have them fold towards the inside of the table so they wouldn't stick out and that would keep them from sticking out. It may require a slightly different design, but that shouldn't be too hard. I like how they fold up to the wall. I don't see myself needing that feature, but I could have used it at the old house.
Wow, that's a REALLY nice looking plane, practically beautiful, and the adjustable bed angle is a very cool feature!

I'd seen this earlier this year, but forgot about it and found it again.

Previously, I'd had a DeWalt 12" compound miter saw. It did everything, but it was not a sliding miter saw. I often found myself wishing I'd had the sliding version. That saw is regularly $349. The sliding DeWalt is $599, and they go up from there for things like Milwaukee, Makita, etc....

DeWalt came out with a new version of their sliding saw and the difference is an LED light to give you a line on the wood to cut (supposed to be better than a laser). That saw is $599. The old version, without the LED was $599 before the new one came out. the old one is still available at some HD and on Amazon for $349, same price as the non-sliding model.

Dewalt DWS780 $599 (12" sliding w/LED)
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-15-Amp-Corded-12-in-Double-Bevel-Sliding-Compound-Miter-Saw-with-XPS-technology-Blade-Wrench-Material-Clamp-DWS780/202922350

Dewalt DWS779 $349 (12" sliding w/o LED)
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-15-Amp-Corded-12-in-Double-Bevel-Sliding-Compound-Miter-Saw-Blade-Wrench-Material-Clamp-DWS779/206541015

Dewalt DWS716 $349 (12" LED)
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-15-Amp-Corded-12-in-Compound-Double-Bevel-Miter-Saw-DWS716/308351915

Or the old version (what I had) non-sliding
Dewalt DWS715 $199 (12" w/o LED)
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-15-Amp-Corded-12-in-Single-Bevel-Compound-Miter-Saw-DWS715/309749587

Anyone thing the $349 12" sliding would be a bad saw?

I wouldn’t know how to use it, but that planer looks beautiful.

Perusing Facebook marketplace, and for most of the tools for sale, I can't help but thing that what I'm looking at is mostly junk or stolen.

When I look at Craigslist, why are so many tools new in the box? Screams stolen to me.

Exactly, a bunch of Dewalt stuff that's NIB. Hell no.

I did see one that was a picture of a garage full of stuff. Father in law passed away and they were getting rid of stuff. Looked legit, like someone had been using the garage, not just a bunch of stuff stacked in it. Otherwise, a lot of the stuff looks like it could easily have been stolen out of trucks, garages or jobsites.

More Woodworkers (mostly) tool porn!

https://www.jimbodetools.com/collections/whats-new

I still had the tab up with this video and accidentally clicked on it again. It automatically started to play right when he said "this hook right here ,will grab your wood and peel it like a shaving..."

I must be in just the right mood because I thought "ouch!"

I've watched several "router" videos. When I've used a router in the past, I eventually figured out the correct way to run the router (against the spin). But based on the videos, I was clearly cutting too much with each cut. I've seen a guideline to only cut half of the size of your collet in one pass. Since my old router was 1/4" collet, I should have stuck to 1/8" cuts. I feel certain that I've done cuts that should have been 2-3 passes in a single pass, and probably even worse when using the router to create a dado groove.

Things that make you go "hmmmm."

IMO dados should be cut with one pass for consistency. For cabinets making, simple dados are normally 1/4" deep, so no real stress on even slightly under powered routers with 1/4 shank. If you are buying new routers, get a 1.5 hp. If possible a D handle for production work. A bit more bulky to handle but much easier for cutting dados and other normal use. I also prefer the flat top ones like the Porter Cable 690. That thing is such workhorse. It allows the router to stand up side down for bit change.

Lots of good info there, thanks. The flat top making bit changes easier is a good call.

When we downsized, I gave the daughter (married with a home) first dibs on all of the tools that I was getting rid of. They took some stuff. We were there today and they gave back the dewalt reciprocating saw and the Ryobi circular saw. Neither is an expensive item, but they're both adequate, so that saves me spending a few hundred dollars. She also had the nice industrial power strip that I had so that's another plus.

I think the big expenditures are going to be the sawstop table saw, and then the miter saw, although I'll probably get the Dewalt DWS-779 which is the discontinued 12" sliding that's only $349, so that's not going to be that expensive.

Miters can be cut on the table saw with a simple jig very accurately. Lots of guys like that, but I don't. Spend a couple hours on that jig and save until you really need the sliding mitersaw.

OK, cool.

So what would you need a miter saw for if you can do the cuts on a table saw using a jig? The only thing that I can think of is cutting REALLY long material, like you would use for crown moulding or baseboards. Is that it?

I hate using that jig, but some people swear by it, old timers who likes the accuracy, not that you can't produce the same cut on a chop saw. Its just easier on the table saw but for long length, I rather cut that on the chop saw with supports of course. Table saw isn't portable. Lets say that you have to cue bases and case in the upstairs room. A chop was is king for that kind of work unless you like the exercise running back and forth to the shop? I am talking about a cabinet size table saw, not a job site one. I wouldn't cut too much miters with the job site little saw with a jig. Not too safe unless you have all kinds of outfeed and extensions.

I think for you, on a restoration, a chop was and a table saw is a must. Set up that chop saw with extensions in the shop with stops for accurate repeated cuts. Pull it if you need it in the house nailing molding.

I can’t think of any miter joint that you would ordinarily need to cut on a house remodeling project that doesn’t involve a long piece of stock. 99% involves a molding. So, I can’t think of any that you would want to cut on a tablesaw.

For my money, that shop is too far from the house to be really useful on your project. That may be the only practical place to put a tablesaw but the miter saw would need to be in the house or right next to it, to be practical.

In watching some of the videos on youtube, I've seen some great jigs for table saws. I'll certainly be giving them a shot. Obviously, for crosscuts on anything long, the miter saw would be the way to go.

This is what I'm currently targeting (and CFO has approved). It's got the 36" extended side table. The next step up is 52". I probably won't go that route.
https://www.rockler.com/media/catalo...77-02-1000.jpg

I don't think there's any way in hell the missus would let me bring the saw into the house. I could maybe manage outside, but I could probably manage the walk back and forth.

I was very happy when I discovered these before.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/3g0AA...5Qf/s-l600.png

I don't think we'll be doing any baseboards or crown moulding, but then who knows. I could end up needing to cut door and/or window casing.

It's no big deal. I remodeled my last house over a 7 year period. I gutted it down to the structure and replaced some of that, as well. You work on one room or one area at a time and cordon off the rest to contain the mess. Our first 6 months in the house, we didn't even have a proper master bedroom.

From my memory, this is a second house for you, so no need to completely move in first and then try to live there. Complete the big projects first, then move in as you have completed rooms or areas. Don't make it harder on yourselves.

If you do any new sheetrock, as you have suggested you will, you'll at least be redoing the door, window and cased opening trims. No way you want to walk all the way to the "shop" every time you make a cut.

My advice is to get the house knocked out first, then entertain your "shop" and "woodworking" fantasies on weekends, way down the road.

I don't think you will be dissapointed!