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-   -   I'm going to an inside tankless water heater (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=1081102)

Baz 12-18-2020 12:42 PM

Guys....thanks heaps for the additional information and comments.

I only use hot water for two things.

Showers and washing dishes.

I can confirm that I've never done both at the same time.

So I should be OK.

;)

Baz 12-18-2020 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dad911 (Post 11147400)
Here's the Rheem charts. https://www.rheem.com/tankless-electric-water-heater-sizing-tool/

Looks like Baz is good for about 3 gpm in Florida.

Nice. Looks good to me as well. Thank you Dad! SmileWavy

908/930 12-18-2020 12:47 PM

You could save time and water by washing dished while in the shower.

pete3799 12-18-2020 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 908/930 (Post 11147416)
You could save time and water by washing dished while in the shower.

No pictures required for this Baz.

vash 12-18-2020 01:05 PM

my friend just installed an electric tankless. her water can be best described as,,"very warm". she tried to crank it up, but her contractor said thats the best it can do.

i have the same contractor potentially, he stated that Germany has a worthwhile electric unit.

dunno. my gas one rocks.

wdfifteen 12-18-2020 05:40 PM

11 years old? It's just a child!

Jolly Amaranto 12-18-2020 08:15 PM

I installed a small one in a 20 shipping container that I converted to a "Guest Cabin" at the old family home place. It is only used for the shower and the bathroom sink. It uses a 240 volt 30 amp service. A shower can be a very unusual experience. Things are counter intuitive. Depending on the flow rate, the temperature car vary all over the place. The well pump delivers water pressure between 20 and 40 PSI. At the highest pressure right after the pump shuts off water temperature drops because more water is being pushed through and heater. At the lowest pressure before the pump starts up again, that water gets real hot. Also with the tap wide open it is coolest and with the tap hardly on it it very hot. With a low flow shower head, if the cold water tap is turned up, it causes back pressure on the water heater causing it kick out and stop heating. I fixed that real quick by taking the flow restricter out of the shower head. My latest installation is a propane fired tankless and I like it a lot better.

look 171 12-18-2020 11:16 PM

Baz, there's one thing I like to add and I am sure you already know this. A traditional tank heater is simple, and easy to operate. I install only traditional tank heaters in all my rental units. Nothing to care for, pull it after 12 years like clock work. Never a problem, no phone calls in the middle of the night about not having hot water.

ledhedsymbols 12-19-2020 12:22 AM

The trouble with electric tankless heaters comes down to temperature rise. This is the important number you must pay attention to when selecting a tankless heater. Basically, a tankless hot water heater is rated to supply a given amount of hot water at a certain temperature rise.

This means that if the water source is quite cold, electrics have a hard time getting up to temp. Natural gas are much better at this. Here in WA state for example, I could never install an electric for more than a hand washing sink and expect it to be effective.

Your situation could be quite different, but that was my assessment when I started looking at upgrading to a tankless for my house.

matthewb0051 12-19-2020 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 908/930 (Post 11147416)
You could save time and water by washing dished while in the shower.

Why stop with just washing dishes?

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/15puo-dSEIY" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Baz 12-21-2020 10:17 PM

Thanks again for the additional thoughts, input, and especially the humor!

Love this place!

Project is on hold until I figure out plan for electrical. Turns out the larger 60 amp breaker will not fit in the current spot for my existing water heater circuit (30 amp). It's too wide and I don't have any openings left in the panel.

Now considering adding a sub-panel right next to it.

It would involve moving a few circuits over to the sub-panel to make room for sub-panel breaker as well as a new 60 amp breaker for the new water heater.

Good friend of mine here is an electrician so I will consult with him before making any final plans.

Will keep the thread updated.

Yes...I realize it would be easier at this point just to replace the water heater with the same one I currently have. But I really like the idea or doing away with the water tank, if possible. I didn't mention this before but my water closet sits right in the middle of my home. If it were out in the garage it would be better, but it's not, so like I said I like getting away from the big tank, if possible.

Thanks again for all the interest!

look 171 12-21-2020 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baz (Post 11151393)
Thanks again for the additional thoughts, input, and especially the humor!

Love this place!

Project is on hold until I figure out plan for electrical. Turns out the larger 60 amp breaker will not fit in the current spot for my existing water heater circuit (30 amp). It's too wide and I don't have any openings left in the panel.

Now considering adding a sub-panel right next to it.

It would involve moving a few circuits over to the sub-panel to make room for sub-panel breaker as well as a new 60 amp breaker for the new water heater.

Good friend of mine here is an electrician so I will consult with him before making any final plans.

Will keep the thread updated.

Yes...I realize it would be easier at this point just to replace the water heater with the same one I currently have. But I really like the idea or doing away with the water tank, if possible. I didn't mention this before but my water closet sits right in the middle of my home. If it were out in the garage it would be better, but it's not, so like I said I like getting away from the big tank, if possible.

Thanks again for all the interest!

Put that puppy outside and be done with it? Is it a slab floor? Can new pipes go into the attic? Its a little more involved, but you gain that space back. WE do it all the time out here.

Baz 12-21-2020 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171 (Post 11151394)
Put that puppy outside and be done with it? Is it a slab floor? Can new pipes go into the attic? Its a little more involved, but you gain that space back. WE do it all the time out here.

LOL....that'd be more work than adding a sub-panel! Plus why would I want a big tank sitting outside my home? :confused:

We'll see what happens but I sincerely appreciate your valuable suggestions and input, sir.
SmileWavy

look 171 12-21-2020 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baz (Post 11151403)
LOL....that'd be more work than adding a sub-panel! Plus why would I want a big tank sitting outside my home? :confused:

We'll see what happens but I sincerely appreciate your valuable suggestions and input, sir.
SmileWavy

More usable interior space and lack of maintenance with a traditional heater. Getting that space back is the main reason people remove that big thing outside (tank of tankless). Its not for energy savings.

greglepore 12-22-2020 05:49 AM

One of the best uses for the tankless electric heaters is radiant floor heat. I have a walk in shower with a concrete floor at grade level, and its heated very well with diy radiant loops and a little $200 Stebel electric tankless. Because its a continuous loop at pretty much a constant temp, it works killer in this application, and is half the cost of the dedicated units the radiant guys sell for this use. A little research reveals that its the same units that they relabel as "radiant".

dad911 12-22-2020 06:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baz (Post 11151393)
Thanks again for the additional thoughts, input, and especially the humor!

Love this place!

Project is on hold until I figure out plan for electrical. Turns out the larger 60 amp breaker will not fit in the current spot for my existing water heater circuit (30 amp). It's too wide and I don't have any openings left in the panel.

Now considering adding a sub-panel right next to it.
......

Time to change the panel. Really. When you sell the home inspector or insurance company will make it happen anyway, you may as well reap the benefits.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/958194-electrical-snafu-advice-requested-please.html

Adding a sub panel and increased current loads to that FPE is asking for trouble.

Quote:

Question: Do Federal Pacific Stab-Lok panels need to be replaced?

Answer: Since these panels have a known potential fire safety issue, we always recommend full replacement when found during an inspection.

dad911 12-22-2020 06:57 AM

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495993735.JPG

Looking at this image from the other thread, all your feeds/wires come in the top, and have plenty of length. Swapping panels would be relatively easy.

SmileWavy

Jolly Amaranto 12-22-2020 09:11 AM

I ran into the same problem trying to add a new circuit for my house. Come to find out that I could not even get new breakers for the old system (no longer manufactured) so went ahead and replaced everything.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1608656821.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1608656821.jpg

Baz 12-22-2020 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dad911 (Post 11151580)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495993735.JPG

Looking at this image from the other thread, all your feeds/wires come in the top, and have plenty of length. Swapping panels would be relatively easy.

SmileWavy

Thinking about doing this as well.

Am going to consult my electrician friend and get his take.

Thank you! SmileWavy


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