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Guys....thanks heaps for the additional information and comments.
I only use hot water for two things. Showers and washing dishes. I can confirm that I've never done both at the same time. So I should be OK. ;) |
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You could save time and water by washing dished while in the shower.
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my friend just installed an electric tankless. her water can be best described as,,"very warm". she tried to crank it up, but her contractor said thats the best it can do.
i have the same contractor potentially, he stated that Germany has a worthwhile electric unit. dunno. my gas one rocks. |
11 years old? It's just a child!
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I installed a small one in a 20 shipping container that I converted to a "Guest Cabin" at the old family home place. It is only used for the shower and the bathroom sink. It uses a 240 volt 30 amp service. A shower can be a very unusual experience. Things are counter intuitive. Depending on the flow rate, the temperature car vary all over the place. The well pump delivers water pressure between 20 and 40 PSI. At the highest pressure right after the pump shuts off water temperature drops because more water is being pushed through and heater. At the lowest pressure before the pump starts up again, that water gets real hot. Also with the tap wide open it is coolest and with the tap hardly on it it very hot. With a low flow shower head, if the cold water tap is turned up, it causes back pressure on the water heater causing it kick out and stop heating. I fixed that real quick by taking the flow restricter out of the shower head. My latest installation is a propane fired tankless and I like it a lot better.
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Baz, there's one thing I like to add and I am sure you already know this. A traditional tank heater is simple, and easy to operate. I install only traditional tank heaters in all my rental units. Nothing to care for, pull it after 12 years like clock work. Never a problem, no phone calls in the middle of the night about not having hot water.
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The trouble with electric tankless heaters comes down to temperature rise. This is the important number you must pay attention to when selecting a tankless heater. Basically, a tankless hot water heater is rated to supply a given amount of hot water at a certain temperature rise.
This means that if the water source is quite cold, electrics have a hard time getting up to temp. Natural gas are much better at this. Here in WA state for example, I could never install an electric for more than a hand washing sink and expect it to be effective. Your situation could be quite different, but that was my assessment when I started looking at upgrading to a tankless for my house. |
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Thanks again for the additional thoughts, input, and especially the humor!
Love this place! Project is on hold until I figure out plan for electrical. Turns out the larger 60 amp breaker will not fit in the current spot for my existing water heater circuit (30 amp). It's too wide and I don't have any openings left in the panel. Now considering adding a sub-panel right next to it. It would involve moving a few circuits over to the sub-panel to make room for sub-panel breaker as well as a new 60 amp breaker for the new water heater. Good friend of mine here is an electrician so I will consult with him before making any final plans. Will keep the thread updated. Yes...I realize it would be easier at this point just to replace the water heater with the same one I currently have. But I really like the idea or doing away with the water tank, if possible. I didn't mention this before but my water closet sits right in the middle of my home. If it were out in the garage it would be better, but it's not, so like I said I like getting away from the big tank, if possible. Thanks again for all the interest! |
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We'll see what happens but I sincerely appreciate your valuable suggestions and input, sir. SmileWavy |
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One of the best uses for the tankless electric heaters is radiant floor heat. I have a walk in shower with a concrete floor at grade level, and its heated very well with diy radiant loops and a little $200 Stebel electric tankless. Because its a continuous loop at pretty much a constant temp, it works killer in this application, and is half the cost of the dedicated units the radiant guys sell for this use. A little research reveals that its the same units that they relabel as "radiant".
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/958194-electrical-snafu-advice-requested-please.html Adding a sub panel and increased current loads to that FPE is asking for trouble. Quote:
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Looking at this image from the other thread, all your feeds/wires come in the top, and have plenty of length. Swapping panels would be relatively easy. SmileWavy |
I ran into the same problem trying to add a new circuit for my house. Come to find out that I could not even get new breakers for the old system (no longer manufactured) so went ahead and replaced everything.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1608656821.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1608656821.jpg |
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Am going to consult my electrician friend and get his take. Thank you! SmileWavy |
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