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Quote:
Originally Posted by vikingRider View Post
so rust on the frame is my primary concern right now, as I haven't seen the thing in person yet. but from what I can tell in the pics there is no rust in the door jams or wheel wells.
2K won't kill me, and I thought it was worth the gamble at that price.
here's a youtube of the car that i bought was on the auction site. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8JRT5p0Dczc

This car is in maryland. I'll post up some pics once I have it my possession.
I think you will be happy, given what you paid.

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Old 01-13-2021, 05:49 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #21 (permalink)
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So got the car (finally) I think it was sitting for the last 12-18 months, The last service was at 207K miles on 1/23/18. I picked it up yesterday with 4K more miles on it since then (211K) the previous owner averaged around 7.5K miles a year.

So the interior is an awesome shape.
The exterior is a a bit dirty and it needs cleaned up but overall looks good and think once it's properly washed/waxed will look great.
No rust underneath that I can see.
Suspension is *TIGHT* including the steering. I am actually very impressed with how solid the suspension is for a 28 year old car. It's tighter then my 03 TDI jetta.

It fired right up and I drove it 60 miles home.
The only thing is I checked the oil (of course) before I took off. It was black as black can be. and just over the bottom of the good range.
I got it home and now i'm right on the bottom of the good range, maybe just a little below. So I definitely used a tiny bit of oil on the drive home. No drips that I can see. I know with my TDI that when the oil needs changed it starts to get used ever so slowly. So I think that's the case here.
I would like to just put some oil in it until i do a change later this week. I do not want to drive a car with low oil level... I have no idea what viscosity was put in it, the only record I have in the mainteance book was from 120K miles where they put in 15w-40 pennzoil (written by the MB dealership).
So if I just want to add a quart to this beast to drive it a dozen miles or so to get to inspection and mechanic for fluid changes what should I put in ?

Secondly the car barely accelerated when I first rolled out. All four tires were low on pressure which didn't help. I went down the block and put air in the tires and some fresh diesel. (tires were all at 15psi) I mean it was semi dangerous to pull out in traffic.

Once the tires were pumped up, fresh fuel added. As I drove it it seemed to get a bit better acceleration wise, but still a pig. I was able to drive over a pretty steep appalachian mountian and go at 65mph on the highway without issue. If it took a little bit longer to get there.

I think the fuel filter is plugged up, the clear plastic inline fuel filter is BLACK So those are getting changed.
Anyhoo once I get it cleaned up I'll post up some pictures.
Old 01-23-2021, 07:42 AM
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Fuel filter dirty looking on a car serviced 4K miles ago? Something's not right. Either that's the way they look on average or somebody lied.

But I don't condemn — a 2K car with even mostly good bones is not a bad deal when you're in that class of cars. I like to buy Jag XJ's like that. And talk about complicated....

You've got to be willing to work on these cars.
Old 01-23-2021, 08:23 AM
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DIESEL BUGS grow in sitting cars to form a thick black sludge that will block the filters

there is a bottom of the tank pre-filter that unscrews after you drain the tank
if it is covered in black goo those are diesel bugs you need tank cleaner by Star Tron Tank Cleaner

the bugs will limit performance the car should be able to go 80 all day long with clean tank fuel and filters
Old 01-23-2021, 09:03 AM
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Just get a jug of 15w40 Diesel specific oil, doesn’t need to be synthetic. The common brand names are Shell Rotella, Chevron Delo, Mobil Delvac, Valvoline Premium Blue. There are other brands, they are all the same. I buy whatever is on sale.

All of these oils will be together on the shelf at any Autozone, O’Reilley’s, etc. Walmart has a good selection and the best prices. Good luck and post photos! If it’s gutless, something simple is wrong. Hopefully not the turbo, which is simple.
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Old 01-23-2021, 09:09 AM
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Just looked at the video you posted the link to.
That car looks great for a first car for a kid.
My son's first car was a 1980 240d w/4-spd donated to him by his uncle. We put a battery in it, changed the belts and hoses, fixed a motor mount and checked the brakes out. Steering box was really worn as the car had @500k on it, but tightened up to acceptable feel with an adjustment.
Second gear sync was almost gone so double clutching on up shifting and down shifting was the norm. My son got really good at it and learned all about 'momentum' driving in that car. The paint came back after he clayed/buffed it out and since it was Glasurit it came back looking like new.
Initially he didn't want it since it was an 'old man's' car. When it was presented as an either or proposition, either this car OR the bus, he took it on with a real pride of ownership. We sold it a couple years later and the buyer said he bought it based on how clean it was.
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Old 01-23-2021, 09:10 AM
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Any check engine lights? A diesel with a bad MAF can be a real dog, same for the turbo actuator...it is a turbo, right? See what boost you're getting.

Run that diesel fuel out, then change the filter. Or drain it. I've let my diesel sit for six months and the fuel was fine.

I only use Mobil1 Turbodiesel full synthetic.
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Last edited by 1990C4S; 01-23-2021 at 12:54 PM..
Old 01-23-2021, 12:51 PM
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+1 on using Shell Rotella.

Good idea checking the fuel system out.
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Old 01-23-2021, 01:44 PM
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So an update.

Car passed inspection with only costing me the cost of the sticker (25 bucks).
This is my normal mechanic he told me the car is in fantastic shape.

Took it to the Mercedes independent mechanic whose been working Benz for 30 years to get the fluids, filters changed out and have him do a once over on it.

He told me it's in great shape, a couple of wear items to keep an eye on but nothing needs replaced anytime real soon.

The throttle cable was buggered up some and I wasn't able to get full usage of it apparently. Also the fuel filter was plugged up.

The car now runs like it's brand new, no lie. Of course these were never rocketships. But it definitely gets up and goes now. I wish I would've done a video of it accelerating before and then put one up after. The difference is dramatic. At some point I will do a thorough clean / buff/ wax on the car but to do it myself i'll have to wait until it's warm enough out to do.

not cleaned up pic.
Old 01-28-2021, 10:25 AM
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If you buff it right that car will be hard to look at in bright sunlight.
Congrats on getting a cream puff.
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'78 SC mit Sportomatic - Sold
Old 01-28-2021, 10:35 AM
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I told you that it was something simple, these cars perform well if everything is normal. Congrats, it’s one of the best cars ever made.
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Old 01-28-2021, 10:37 AM
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Very nice car. I had a 190e of same vintage. All day cruising at 100mph like a bank vault.

Get that antenna fixed. It should go all the way down when car turns off. Some poo head will break that and pull the 3 point star off the front hood. When they steal the star replace with MB badge... Or get a few dozen hood ornaments
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Old 01-28-2021, 03:57 PM
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congrats!
Old 01-28-2021, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matthewb0051 View Post
Very nice car. I had a 190e of same vintage. All day cruising at 100mph like a bank vault.

Get that antenna fixed. It should go all the way down when car turns off. Some poo head will break that and pull the 3 point star off the front hood. When they steal the star replace with MB badge... Or get a few dozen hood ornaments
thx and..
i snapped the pic when the car was running. the antenna does go down. and yea i'm hoping to avoid someone taking the star off hopefully...

Old 01-29-2021, 06:06 AM
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