Help changing bench grinder wheels
 

Working on my Dad's 1942 Dielh, 6 in, 1/4 hp bench grinder.
There does not appear to be any locking holes in the armature or spacer cups to lock the wheels down.
I know the left side is reverse threaded.
I managed to swap out the right side 68-year-old wire wheel by gripping it with work gloves, but that torque will probably come loose after a couple half-hour sessions.
Any trick, or clues where I should look for access holes to lock the shaft?
Thanks
Bill K

not mine - vintage internet pic: (mine still has the original cloth shield power supply cordset) :eek:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1610471136.jpg

impact wrench.

I do not think there is any lock, usually not that tight.

Strap wrench. And yeah, not usually very tight.

Nice grinder. Garage Journal has a whole thread on vintage grinders. Some people get fanatical!

Like others said, not that tight.

Or even a box wrench on the nut and strike it with a hammer.

C.

If you can grasp the belt...squeeze both directions at once.
That will give you plenty of leverage to tighten.

Or...is there no belt?

No belt.
All good ideas. I forgot about Mr Impact Wrench. That should work.
Also, was not aware that they should not be super tight.
Thanks all.
Bill K

Yeah, vintage grinders, who knew ?
There's a 24 minute time-lapse you-tube of a guy restoring a 50's vintage Hitachi yikes !

+930

Grab the grinding wheel wit one of those big adjustable pliers. the sort that plumbers use. then start undoing the nut until the pliers reach something and stop.

Cool grinder!

You know that one side has a left hand thread, right?

Hitachi restoration - and you thought Porsche people were cuckoo....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTkta_clkrA

Then throw that grinding wheel away..... Any chance of a stress crack and that might become shrapnel at speed.

I noticed at a friends machine shop he used a belt/disk sander instead of a grinder. I now do the same, and have wire and buffing wheels on the 'grinder' instead.

Stand to the side when turning grinder on, wheel most likely to break apart then if damaged, funny how many machinists I have seen turn it on and immediately get ready to grind something with nose to the wheel. I have only seen one 10" wheel explode, that was on surface grinder, the wheel was hit from the side while stationary. Belt or disk have there place but for hard materials hard to beat a grinding wheel. I remember stoping a lab-tec from de-buring 5" x 5" stainless steel sheet metal on the 24" 3hp disc sander, had the material at about 20 degrees to the disc with the back of his fingers towards the disc and the edge of material near the table, I explained how much would be left of his fingers if the material wedged into the gap of the table, he went and used a file.

My Diehl now has two wire wheels; the original course one and a new medium grade.
BillK

I sleep with my Diehl. Truth. ;)

Yep, that's the idea. OP's wanting help changing the grinding wheels.

Hold the RH thread nut with a box wrench. Turn the LH nut with a socket/breaker. If the LH nut comes loose, bingo. If the RH nut comes lose, double nut it tight enough so you can loosen the LH nut.

Do, as they say is the reverse of undo.

Actually you don't have to destroy anything and you can easily mount/dis-mount buffing wheels, wire brush wheels and grinder wheels. Nothing needs to be too tight. If a wheel comes loose, you'll know long before it fly's off.

Thanks for responding.
..not my first rodeo.
The armature has zero thread exposure on the ends, and, where to find a reverse-thread jam nut, even if there was enough room?
Bill K

..can't blame you. Interesting history (- to me anyway)

Before 1885, Philip Diehl was a machine designer for sewing machine manufacturer Singer Manufacturing Co. That year, he went out on his own to manufacture his new electric motors. Operating under the name Philip Diehl, he worked out of space in the Singer factory in Elizabet, NJ, and Singer was, of course, his main customer. In 1887, Diehl created the first ceiling fan that was directly driven by an electric motor. This impressive technical achievement was enabled by the use of a low-speed high-torque motor developed by Belgian electrical engineer Zénobe Gramme. Perhaps inspired by the potential sales of his new product, Diehl incorporated that year, as Diehl & Co., changing the name in 1896 to Diehl Manufacturing Co..

Over the next few decades, Diehl Manufacturing Co. expanded their product line to include fractional horsepower DC and AC motors plus a variety of motor-based products such as oscillating fans, handheld electric drills, and bench grinders. This website's focus is woodworking and metalworking machinery plus the motors that powered them. Thus, Diehl is listed on our site because they made motors and bench grinders. Other items they made, such as electric drills, fans, and specialized (e.g., sewing machine) motors, are outside the scope of our site and we cannot provide more information on them.

At some point Diehl was acquired by Singer and became the Diehl Division of Singer Manufacturing Co., or, more formally, Diehl Manufacturing Co., a Division of Singer Manufacturing Co. Both before and after that time, they were a supplier of handheld electric drills and bench grinders to Sears, with Sears model-number prefix 315.

In 1988 the Motor Products Division of Diehl (which was, in turn, a division of Singer) was acquired by Japanese power tool maker Ryobi, Ltd., becoming the basis of Ryobi's new U.S. operations, Ryobi Motor Products Corp.; Ryobi took over supply of products to Sears Craftsman, retaining the 315 manufacturer code.


(FWIW, my Dad was born and raised in Elizabeth)