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Dan |
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I don't stay up to speed on cameras anymore, so I don't know what the latest stuff is to recommend. If you can identify what you want to shoot and what you intend doing with the shots, that will narrow the field.
- are you thinking landscape photography? Usually wide angle stuff. - are you thinking wildlife? Usually zoom stuff. Speed matters. - street photography? Wide to mild zoom, low light sometimes. - do you want to put some time in processing the images? Maybe shoot RAW? - what do you want to do with the images? Post them online, or make prints? You can see some different styles on this forum I used to go to: https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ Your budget will also narrow the field. I'd suggest get something new on closeout or used for 30-40% off. You'll likely get started before realizing what you need and want to do, so being able to sell the gear for a minimal loss is helpful. When I stopped being a hobbyist I had (still have) a D300 with my go-to 17-55mm. That covers 80% of what I need and the output is great. I've got a full on Contax G2 kit, which is spectacular with film, but it's more hassle and expense to shoot, and there's no post processing to be done unless you get super serious in a darkroom.
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Dan |
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Getting an education about which camera to buy should include looking at this site, IMO: https://www.dpreview.com/
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Scott '78 SC mit Sportomatic - Sold |
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Information Junky
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Best camera for nature photography?
That's like asking what is the best tool for gardening.
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Very nice photos, Dan. I appreciate the responses.
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A big part of my interest is shooting clouds, my cloud storage is truly cloud storage, it's filled up with pictures of clouds from various road trips. Maybe the term *nature photography* was even wrong...more like vistas and mountains? These are a few I've taken with my iPhone, I think that I can conservatively say that I have hundreds of pictures of clouds: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Unless you are going to routinely print larger than about 8x10”, a big fancy camera is not going to do a whole lot better at cloud photography than a properly used cell phone.
Post processing is a huge component of digital imaging, and will make a LOT more difference than what type of camera you use. That is a whole different skill set, and takes time to learn as well. Even cell phone images can be markedly improved with the correct post processing using programs like adobe photoshop. If you are satisfied with cloud pictures taken through the windshield while driving down the road at 50 mph, a fancy camera is really not going to do a lot better. It will also not be as accessible. And this is coming from a guy with a lot of gear. It would be like buying a complete set of snap on tools because you want to change your own oil. The right tool for the right job, but enough is as good as a feast. Gary |
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I have cameras around here that I don't use that I'm planning to sell. PM me your budget and I'll send you a list.
I have a full frame Nikon that I use when I'm shooting something special, but I'm getting a tripod for my iPhone because it is good enough for most things I shoot these days. Gary is right about the cell phones and processing. Having said that, these were all shot with my 610 and various lenses. ![]() ![]() I have a big, fast lens but it is so heavy I seldom use it. This, and most of the photos here, was shot with a basic 70-300 zoom lens. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I spent a year going out and shooting this old silo when the sky behind was interesting. ![]() This crumbling old mansion is a few miles from home. I caught it one morning when there was a mist of fog on the ground.
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. Last edited by wdfifteen; 05-18-2021 at 06:06 AM.. |
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And if you want close up stuff, a macro lens will help. Pelican shrinks these down but you get the idea. Again, this is an inexpensive body and lenses.
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The thing that drew me to Sony mirrorless camera's was that I could adapt so many different lenses to it. So far, I've adapted Leica, Minolta and Nikon lenses to my cameras with nothing more than some fairly inexpensive adapters. Being able to use the lenses at their 'native' focal length is what moved me to get a full frame camera.
The animal eye auto focus is something else on the latest Sony's. Look at the bird forum photos on Talkemount and you'll see some amazing shots.
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I think you can probably just start by watching some YouTube videos on photo composition, and maybe try a free version of Lightroom. See if it makes a difference in your photos and sparks some sort of desire to expand the hobby. Because that's when it can get expensive. I don't think it makes much sense to start "at the beginning" with classes. It sounds like you might want to just refine what you're already doing.
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Quote:
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I had a bunch of basic videos saved on the subject, but the Microsoft/ Google axis of evil has me signed out and I can't find my favorites anymore. Peter McKinnon, Adorama, et. al. have so many great videos. You can learn so much in a week, it's ridiculous now. |
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Ultimately it gets down to which camera feels good in your hands and you're willing to learn how to use.
A camera that doesn't feel good in your hands will never be used as much as one that does. If a camera is too complicated for you to tolerate, it will never be used. Finding the balance between these factors will get you a camera you'll wear out from use.
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you don't need a class - just start with it set to "P" then branch out to A or S
for clouds tho, you will have an issue with Dynamic Range (DR) - bright to dark in the same scene you either get a full frame (FF) of some brand or you exposure stack if you get m43 sensors based bodies - and MOST LIKELY you'll need to exposure stack on a full frame body - the DR is just so great Here's how it works out - the smaller the sensor the smaller the lenses can be - matters the most with big telephoto for wildlife or sports - but noise goes up (see the big print comment above) - and DR goes down - maybe a full stop from FF to m43; when DR in the scene exceeds what the sensor can handle you get brownout highs - and there is just no info for any software to recover in post-processing Here's the sensor size list: Medium Format - Hasselblad, Mamiya - I suggest you don't get this; they are big, heavy and expensive but the big sensor gives you the best DR; Hassy XCD is worth a look if you want to spend the $$ FF - Nikon, Canon, Sony, etc. - Nikon gives the best access to many, many old lenses; & gets the most out of their sensors; Canon is preferred by many other people; Sony is the tech leader APS-C - Nikon calls this DX; I say skip this sensor size m43 - see above post on the 2 main co.s using this size - the critical thing for your cloud photos is you can exposure stack right in the camera, so no need to buy a post-processing software program 1" sensors - Nikon One system, which they abandoned, screwing over people who bought in - dunno if anyone else makes them 2/3 or 3/4 inch sensors - the (former) realm of compact cameras like Canon S95, etc. - nor dead from cell phones, RIP even tinier sensors - these are used in smart phones- Apple etc. have tons of processing to make the images from these tiny systems look good; often better than 'real' cameras So, you want a camera that is worth carrying around besides a smartphone. That means m43 or FF system, or maybe medium format. the above is your bottom line unless... unless you are a crazy person and buy a b view camera and scan the negs on a drum scanner - this has the same advantages as buying a Ferrari: you have found a hole to dump stacks of cash into and it is esthetic to boot so focus on the FF or m43 systems and then follow Scott Douglas's advice and others who said ergonomics rules Last edited by thor66; 05-19-2021 at 02:59 PM.. |
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Best camera threads are like “best oil” threads. Lots of in-the-weeds jargon and technical stuff, no consensus.
Use a phone, shoot what you like. Chances are you’ll be plenty happy, but post your pics here and let us know what you do/don’t like about them. We can work up from there.
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Speeder only needs to spend a few hundred dollars to dabble in it and get MUCH better results, especially if he can process RAW images (or bracket the same exposure) and use a tripod.
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^ You can't put a polarized filter on a smartphone. Or any type of filter for that matter.
And you're very limited with what you can do with the flash. I say start with Adobe Lightroom, or even Photoshop. Learn how to use that and go through old photos. Some of the cloud photos above could have benefitted from a flash inside the car. Probably a lower ISO setting would make the sun setting look more interesting, say an orange dot, provided the car was stopped, with a longer exposure or slower shutter speed would look very interesting. |
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Information Junky
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3D printed them up and viola. It's been handy over the years. (it turns with a roll of a thumb on the edge.)
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Everyone you meet knows something you don't. - - - and a whole bunch of crap that is wrong. Disclaimer: the above was 2¢ worth. More information is available as my professional opinion, which is provided for an exorbitant fee.
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Information Junky
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example from that ^
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Everyone you meet knows something you don't. - - - and a whole bunch of crap that is wrong. Disclaimer: the above was 2¢ worth. More information is available as my professional opinion, which is provided for an exorbitant fee.
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