What to do with an old TnG bathroom floor

masraum · 08-15-2021, 04:44 PM

The missus wants to make a bunch of changes in the bathroom. Changes have been made over the years by previous owners. I'm fairly certain that all of the floors are 3/4" TnG. Most are pretty badly cupped. There's currently a small shower with a fiberglass enclosure in one corner. The opposite corner has a toilet in a tiny room.
The room overall is 9'x9'.

Drawings not quite to scale, but you get the general idea.

current

future

And this is what the floors look like now. The small room that the toilet is in has vinyl tiles. The shower is a fiberglass/plastic enclosure. My assumption is that the floor under them is also the same flooring, but I have no idea what shape they are in.

When we renovate the bathroom, she wants to do something with the flooring. It's in pretty bad shape, and then with moving/removing 2 small walls, the vinyl tile and the shower enclosure, I'm assuming the wood is going to look like hell.

This is the only full bath in the house. What would be the easiest and fastest floor to put in this room so we wouldn't be out of the bathroom for long. For instance, if we sanded and refinished with urethane, we'd be out of the room for a week letting the urethane completely dry, right?

She'd like tile for the bathroom, but is also happy to preserve the flooring albeit refinished. We've done tons of tile work in the past, it's easy, but I'm concerned that on this flooring we'd have issues with tiles popping if the floor/house shifts, which it does over the years. Then I'd also be concerned about putting tile on the floor and having that hold moisture near the wood causing more issues. And, of course, anything we put down will have a thickness that adds to the issues.

This is the floor in the bathroom now.

The missus just had an idea. Take out the tub, toilet and enclosure of the toilet. Refinish the floor in that 2/3 of the room, let it dry. Then after that's done, the tub can be put in, then the other side of the bathroom gutted, the new spot for the toilet roughed in, then the other 1/3 of the floor refinished, and then I can put the toilet in once it's ready/dry. We do have a toilet upstairs.

Still, I'd like to hear your thoughts on the floors, and does her idea of doing the flooring in 2 parts seem like it would work?

look 171 · 08-15-2021, 04:47 PM

Depending on the age of the house, Steve, I am not a big fan of wood floors in the bath. Asking for trouble. Old fashion turn of the century or styles from the 20 will make that bath a pretty that she will never want to get out.

masraum · 08-15-2021, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171

Depending on the age of the house, Steve, I am not a big fan of wood floors in the bath. Asking for trouble. Old fashion turn of the century or styles from the 20 will make that bath a pretty that she will never want to get out.

Pretty sure it was built in 1924.

How well would tile go down on the floor that's there? Would the water content in the mortar be a problem being installed over the existing wood?

look 171 · 08-15-2021, 05:00 PM

To do this properly, the sub should be removed and cover with plywood. BAck then they dial the substrate for tile perfectly flat with the wood floors. If you have room, or can remove subfloor, then you are golden. If you are a believe in true restoration, expos the joist and more then likely they are cut at an angle like the ridge of a roof to accommodate the mortar. Depending on the width, saw cut the joist a tiny bit and install plywood on top followed by Hadibacker board for floor.

Oh, forgot to answer your water question. No, it sill dry in a couple days especially on hot days like now.

masraum · 08-15-2021, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171

To do this properly, the sub should be removed and cover with plywood. BAck then they dial the substrate for tile perfectly flat with the wood floors. If you have room, or can remove subfloor, then you are golden. If you are a believe in true restoration, expos the joist and more then likely they are cut at an angle like the ridge of a roof to accommodate the mortar. Depending on the width, saw cut the joist a tiny bit and install plywood on top followed by Hadibacker board for floor.

Oh, forgot to answer your water question. No, it sill dry in a couple days especially on hot days like now.

OK, thanks.

From what I've seen under the house.

We have joists going east/west. On top of the joists is what looks like 3/4" TnG wood going north/south, and then the floor inside the house looks like 3/4" TnG going east/west.

look 171 · 08-15-2021, 05:15 PM

Similar style to my pic?

You can make that more old fashion by not having the piece of glass but curtains. Change out the shower to a much older fashion design, and keep your existing window (s). Before Milt turns himself inside out and disapprove of the vinyl window and glass work, the window was already there and the owner, an old gentleman on wheelchair, about 85 years old, needed an adjustable shower with his live in nurse that can fit in the shower comfortably. Its about function at this point of his life. Curb-less for easy wheelchair access. I designed that for him so he can get in and out easily and still keep some of the old house charm. This house, built in 1935, located in Old Pasadena. The funny story was that he showed all his old buddies over a party because he put in a new bathroom and demanded I be there to have a beer with them. During that party, 4 of his old buddies wanted me to build them a shower just like it without a curb. I did just that in the next couple years.

look 171 · 08-15-2021, 05:15 PM

Sorry, Here's pic

look 171 · 05:22 PM

Oh, I also installed a night night under the cabinet so he can see at night.

Also, I installed the shower control on the other side (I install them like that for most people anyway) so he (nurse actually) do not have to go running to keep herself from the blast of the cold water coming out of the shower head.

look 171 · 08-15-2021, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by masraum

OK, thanks.

From what I've seen under the house.

We have joists going east/west. On top of the joists is what looks like 3/4" TnG wood going north/south, and then the floor inside the house looks like 3/4" TnG going east/west.

You wouldn't know what's really there until you remove them. Especially if its been remodeled several time over the years. If you can see the T and G from under the house, then you have to ask yourself what's important? Having a small ramp or transition piece to go up to a thicker floor or do you want to make sure the tile is flush with the wood floor? Flush with the floor will require more work. If not, the new tile floor maybe 3/4' higher.

look 171 · 08-15-2021, 05:24 PM

give me the dimensions, and I will do some space planning and come up with a design for ya later tonight.

masraum · 08-15-2021, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171

Sorry, Here's pic

She likes this look

masraum · 08-15-2021, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171

You wouldn't know what's really there until you remove them. Especially if its been remodeled several time over the years. If you can see the T and G from under the house, then you have to ask yourself what's important? Having a small ramp or transition piece to go up to a thicker floor or do you want to make sure the tile is flush with the wood floor? Flush with the floor will require more work. If not, the new tile floor maybe 3/4' higher.

The doorways in this place have a 3/4” threshold, but the missus would prefer for the floors to be at the same level or close to what they are now.
Yep, no real idea how this place is built. Just guesses in most places.

masraum · 08-15-2021, 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171

Oh, I also installed a night night under the cabinet so he can see at night.

Also, I installed the shower control on the other side (I install them like that for most people anyway) so he (nurse actually) do not have to go running to keep herself from the blast of the cold water coming out of the shower head.

I like having the shower on the opposite side. While in the shower it would be easier to control the shower while facing the controls.

masraum · 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171

give me the dimensions, and I will do some space planning and come up with a design for ya later tonight.

9’x9’
The door is 29” and within an inch of the corner.

gregpark · 08-16-2021, 02:38 AM

I know we've talked about this flooring before but...The easiest, cheapest, fastest, nice looking flooring to use is LVT (Luxury Vinyl Tile). A free floating, click together water proof and almost indestructible floor. It can be installed half at a time and is designed for the diy homeowner. Many manufacturers and many choices in a stone or wood look and the stuff is quite attractive these days. The existing vinyl tile should be removed along with the underlayment it's attached to. The underlayment is probably ⅜" ply or partical board. It's possible the tiles were glued directly to your 1x4 subfloor but there's most likely an underlayment. I set the depth of a circular saw using a carbide blade to this thickness and grid the floor up for easy removal. It's probably stapled down and the grid squares can be pried out. Undercut the door jamb and allow a ¼" gap around the perimeter for expansion/contraction. Easy peasy, cheap and warm compared to ceramic tile and... no grouted joints

1990C4S · 08-16-2021, 04:11 AM

Do what look said. Heated tile.

I like vinyl tile too, but the 20's look suits your house better.

dad911 · 08-16-2021, 05:03 AM

Replumbing a tub, shower, moving a toilet, moving the vanity and removing some walls. It's hard to believe the flooring is salvageable. At that point 3 days or a week does not seem to matter. Plus surprises when you do the demo.

I would leave the tub as long as possible, and install it first, after the new floor goes down.

Are you replacing the shower with a shower in the tub? IMHO a shower like Look's pic is far more practical.

I think if you rotate the tub 90 degrees clockwise in your sketch, you will have room along the remaining two walls and corner for 2 sinks and a shower.

If there is a window in the bathroom, where is it?

masraum · 08-16-2021, 05:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gregpark

I know we've talked about this flooring before but...The easiest, cheapest, fastest, nice looking flooring to use is LVT (Luxury Vinyl Tile). A free floating, click together water proof and almost indestructible floor. It can be installed half at a time and is designed for the diy homeowner. Many manufacturers and many choices in a stone or wood look and the stuff is quite attractive these days. The existing vinyl tile should be removed along with the underlayment it's attached to. The underlayment is probably ⅜" ply or partical board. It's possible the tiles were glued directly to your 1x4 subfloor but there's most likely an underlayment. I set the depth of a circular saw using a carbide blade to this thickness and grid the floor up for easy removal. It's probably stapled down and the grid squares can be pried out. Undercut the door jamb and allow a ¼" gap around the perimeter for expansion/contraction. Easy peasy, cheap and warm compared to ceramic tile and... no grouted joints

The area with the vinyl tiles (or maybe it's linoleum) is at the same level as the rest of the bathroom and is only about 2.5' x ~4'. If there's anything other than the 1x4, then they had to remove the 1x4 to put it in. It's entirely possible, but at the same time, It doesn't look like there's anywhere in the house where we've got anything other than the original 1x4 flooring. It was at some point, refinished. It looks like it was done in a hamfisted manner with a belt sander.

Here's the transition.

masraum · 08-16-2021, 06:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dad911

Replumbing a tub, shower, moving a toilet, moving the vanity and removing some walls. It's hard to believe the flooring is salvageable. At that point 3 days or a week does not seem to matter. Plus surprises when you do the demo.

I would leave the tub as long as possible, and install it first, after the new floor goes down.

Are you replacing the shower with a shower in the tub? IMHO a shower like Look's pic is far more practical.

I think if you rotate the tub 90 degrees clockwise in your sketch, you will have room along the remaining two walls and corner for 2 sinks and a shower.

If there is a window in the bathroom, where is it?

with window locations.

908/930 · 908/930's Garage

If you were going to try and keep the wood I would recommend a product called Loba 2K Supra AT, it is a 2 part poly, can walk on in about 12hrs and very tough, I used it on our cork floor in the kitchen.

If you want to go with tile and maintain the same height, what I have done is remove floor totally to the joists, plane them so the floor is flat, and glue and screw 2x4 to the side of the joist so it is 3/4" below the top (or thickness of whatever plywood you want to use) and cut strips of ply to drop in between the joist resting on the 2x4's, glue and screw and now you subfloor is same height as top of the joists, and has added strength from the 2x4's.