RED loctite vs. BLUE loctite!!!
 

Please discuss.

Specifically-
1.Can red threadlocker be undone?
2.Is Blue threadlocker good enough?

Can you guys even tell a difference?

Now I'm questioning everything I know. For instance, all the bolts I "neverseize" still seize. I spray on the PB blaster, but the damn bolt still shears off anyway. Autozone pushes Seafoam, but I never bite. What if it does work??? Would seafoam make me an "Ideal man?" Probably not, but, I don't know what to think anymore.


I've got a spoon trigger bolt that keeps backing out, and overtightening it can cause the assembly to fail.

My itchy spoon finger has some RED loctite on hand. I'm wondering the difference between red and blue, OR... would a small amount of red equal a larger amount of blue?

Important stuff. Muy Importante stuff. :)

In my limited experience, red will lock it until you apply heat to the fastener. Blue will perform more along the lines of a nyloc nut. Harder to disassemble than a dry fastener, but it won't wreck your day.

Thanks. Ok- So you can tell a difference. From what I can remember, a lot of car bolts have a dab of one or the other (I think red), but eventually I win against it. Specifically bolts holding timing belt tensioners etc.- but maybe they are blue.

And that's the other thing, it seems like all the car bolts have only a small portion of the threads dabbed (specifically, the end), not the whole bolt.

Maybe I could go blue, and if it loosens, change to red.

Why not try blue and if it doesn't do it then go to red?
Remember that loctite does have an shelf life and if you have opened the blue it may not perform well. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1706-nuts-and-bolts-does-loctite-go-bad/

The blue Loctite or the red Loctite. Choose wisely.

I had no idea about the shelf life. I’ve been using a couple of large bottles for 10 years!

Note to self, buy new Loctite.

LOL^ I've got some older blue loctite that's frozen out in the garage several times over.
I've got some new red, and am too lazy to go buy new blue.

What I want is a master formula. - For example. I have two year old red loctite that has frozen once, does that make it blue?

Ah hell, now I've got to go rewatch "The Matrix"

I'm not totally sold on throwing out 25 month old product but, if you value the spoon, why not go get a fresh tube of blue and do it right?

Green is even easier to use than than blue.

Perhaps a trip to autozone is in order.
My conundrum refers to an aftermarket trigger with sealed bearings which evidently fails in 3 gun competition world. The only thing I can figure, is that everyone gets loosening bolts, overtightens them, and this fractures the mechanism.

I could always not tighten tight, use blue, and if it fails, go red.
Worse case scenario, it fails like high volume 3 gun shooters, I go with a different system- assuming I can dislodge the broken trigger without heat.

https://www.ellsworth.com/globalassets/literature-library/manufacturer/henkel-loctite/henkel-loctite-selector-guide-threadlocker-properties-chart.pdf

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1677032554.jpg

^I like the nuclear facilities option.

I have some blue that is supposed to work on oily threads. Seems to do the job. Sort of brainless. I use it on my Dirtbike almost everywhere.

As for seized threads? 50% acetone 50% ATF was proven by some engineering school to be the best penetrating oil. It really does the job. If not, add heat and repeat. Pretty damn amazing.

Low halogen/low sulfur.... better for the environment.




I like my threadlocker with a higher yield point than the hardware. ;)

Loctite 2432 (the "nuclear option") works better with stainless and titanium hardware than the 242 does. The low halogen / low sulfur is intended to not pose a point corrosion risk at higher temperatures.

I used to proof first-draft technical manuals for Honda that were written and translated in Japan. One engine assembly section specifically called out using 'Loctite' and without fail, it always landed on my desk as 'Lactate'. [insert boob joke here] :rolleyes:

Do NOT use red loctite unless the manufacturer specifies it. I'd start with the purpose and move up, of the fastener still comes loose.

Mechanics use various strategies for removing stubborn fasteners, depending on the situation. They love using heat on many stubborn fastener situations and they all have an oxy/acetylene setup. For a penetrant, I use Maltbys. Everybody thinks their penetrant is the best and the people who Maltby's is the best are correct. And I tap on the fastener first. Maybe give the penetrant some time to dissolve corrosion. I might tap as I try to loosen. Again, heat helps. I might try turning it clockwise first. When all fails, I use reverse drill bits and Snap-On screw extractors.

Don't use red loctite unless the manufacturer specifies it.

The aerial camera system we use comes as a complete "kit" and ready to go. However one of the really neat mounts has a couple of Allen head grub screws holding some parts in place. When the parts that mount to it get stripped, I have to disassemble the mount to drill out the stripped screws.

They use red loctite to hold the screws in place. I cuss as lot and use some heat and high quality Allen wrenches to get it apart.

I have more blue loctite than I will use in 3 lifetimes, can I send you a case ? Pm me your address . free.