Pool Guys? I’m about done…
 

I filled an above ground pool with our well water. It is high in salt and high in iron.

I shocked it and added clarifier. Then my pH was 8.2 and the alkalinity was high.

I added pH-. And got the pH under control… sorta.

Here is where I’m at now. I need to increase my pH slightly but my chlorine is high…

What is my next move? My daughter’s 11th birthday party is tomorrow.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1717786508.jpg

You are good to go as long it's not green or smells of chlorine.

Anybody else look at this and think the strip/scale are upside down? Could it be that the test pads were adhered in the wrong order? If so, CYA is OK/little low, TA is a little high, CL prolly okay, and pH okay. Besides, I've never really relied on test strips -- I much prefer the Poolmaster test kits like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00107039U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Yep, now that you mention it, definitely. I was looking at it thinking "that doesn't look like the colors 'fit' in the scales" but now that you've said it and I've mentally flipped the strip, it totally fits.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1717792393.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1717792521.jpg

Ok just redid it

So,
7.2
3 or maybe 5
180
30-50

I'm assuming that 7.2 is good, Chlorine is good or on the edge, alkalinity looks to be outside of the "OK" range, and the bottom scale looks OK.

I hate these sort of things, because so often the color could be one of 2 or sometimes 3 different squares.

And did this…http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1717793017.jpg

Test strip shows high Cl, chemical test shows low Cl. They both agree that pH is 7.8-8.0…

Add some Muriatic Acid-like a quart or so. That'll bring the ph down. The chlorine is fine. Maybe tiny bit low. But if the water is clear, don't chase the chemistry. The margins are pretty big...
And if you bring the ph down, the chlorine will test slightly higher.

Thank you.

Acid will bring down TA too

When I take a water sample in a one gallon zip lock bag
to my local pool supply store,
they analyze it and tell me exactly what I need
for my pool. For free.
And big surprise, they sell me whatever I need ;)

Not sure if you have the same opportunity but if you do,
you would be foolish not to take advantage of it.
It's faster, more accurate and in the long run
will save you money.

So… the water is now a nice inviting blue color and the chemistry is dialed.

The iron from the water has settled out on the bottom. How can I vacuum this up with out stirring it up again?

Agree 100%. Found my local Leslie’s with a guy who understands the water in my area, Will test whenever I want. His advice has kept my pool clean and clear. It is worth finding someone you can trust to give the right advice and not just sell chemicals. The Leslie’s store closest to me just pushes the corporate line and upsells me when they can.

A flocculant should work; it'll bind with the iron particles and make them easier to filter/vacuum out. Flocculants also bind with other matter & can help keep your pool water sparkly.

From a helpful, pelican cab owner (formerly) in Ohio.....

“stop using test strips and get a test kit. Also mention to the OP that they should go this site https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/ It’s the Pelican Parts of the pool world. It’ll help him get everything straight."

Your aquifer probably hates you - or it did for awhile anyway.

_

Thank you, TFT us the place to really learn how to operate a pool.

Test strips and color gradient tests are not very accurate. Use a Taylor K-2006 or the equal from Trouble Free Pools.

Also, if you really want to enjoy your pool and minimize work, get a VSP (Variable Speed Pump) and a Salt-Water Chlorine Generator. Once dialed in, you don't have to worry about putting in chlorine. My testing is now once a week and I generally only test Chlorine and pH. And the VSP minimizes your pump operating costs.

One note, the most common cause for a green pool not caused by algae, is iron in the water.