Porsche cannister oil filter vs spin on filters (by adapter)

[masraum]

Originally Posted by David

I can’t get under my cayman with a low profile jack so I added a rennline jack pad at the back so I can jack it up from there. Driving on some 2x6’s works too.

You’ll also need a filter socket wrench to fit the canister if you don’t have one already.

Nope, don't have one, and have seen them used in the videos. That certainly seems like the way to go.

[TimT]

When I do oil changes at home on my 07 Cayman, I just back it up onto ramps, and the oil change is a cinch..The car is near level with the pitch of the driveway, and rump being up on ramps..

I've owned my Cayman for 7 years, and have only used Liqui-Moly synth in it..

As for the spin on adapter... I asked my friend Bill about it (he's got 40+ years in the biz) link in my sig... and He rolled his eyes and said why the eff would you do that..

[masraum]

Originally Posted by TimT

When I do oil changes at home on my 07 Cayman, I just back it up onto ramps, and the oil change is a cinch..The car is near level with the pitch of the driveway, and rump being up on ramps..

I've owned my Cayman for 7 years, and have only used Liqui-Moly synth in it..

As for the spin on adapter... I asked my friend Bill about it (he's got 40+ years in the biz) link in my sig... and He rolled his eyes and said why the eff would you do that..

Unfortunately, I don't have a slanted surface to drive on. But I could probably come up with a couple of "ramps" made out of 2x that would get both the front and back of the car lifted enough for me to get under it to change the oil. I'm in the country. I don't have a paved driveway. I do have a garage on a cement pad. I'll need to move some stuff around to make room as it's got a lot of stuff being stored in it, so not room to pull the whole boxster in front to back.

Which liqui-moly are you using?

"why the eff would you do that?" LOL! I have no idea. I was curious myself. After watching some videos. I don't see a good reason for it.

[TimT]

Oops... the Liqui-moly I've been using is Motul x-cess G2 5-W40


I saw a jug of Liqui-moly in my shed the other day.. So at some point my Cayman used that

[masraum]

Originally Posted by TimT

Oops... the Liqui-moly I've been using is Motul x-cess G2 5-W40


I saw a jug of Liqui-moly in my shed the other day.. So at some point my Cayman used that

LOL. Both the LM and the Motul seem to be fairly well loved. I assume you can't go wrong with either one.

[svandamme]

I used to have these drive on hydraulic ramps


easy enough, drove on backwards, jack up
easy access for oil on the Cayman

but i've done so much work and cost saving, by now I have a 1 post lift.
Totally worth it, getting to old to crawl around on my back for oil changes or any other work:


Roof not high enough to stand under, but I have a stool on wheels, just as practical


The post against the Wall, so it doesn't bother me, when not in use, I can drive over it and park 2 cars in as usual.



I just left the canister system in place, its easy, I replace my oil every 5000 km.. 0w40 Mobil1 only.
cost of the oil is cheaper than my engine if it blows up (even tho I have a low mileage spare block laying around just in case)

I fill it till the last mark.. then I add 50cc at a time in between drives till the sensor say overfilled.
That way I know its just a c*nthair over
And if it ever drops, I'll know i burned off 50cc

That has never happened in any of the 5000km stints. So I know mine don't burn, no bore scoring in my house !

[masraum]

Originally Posted by svandamme

I used to have these drive on hydraulic ramps


easy enough, drove on backwards, jack up
easy access for oil on the Cayman

Those are really cool, and presumably, take up little space and are less expensive than many of the other options.

[svandamme]

Originally Posted by masraum

Those are really cool, and presumably, take up little space and are less expensive than many of the other options.

I think I paid 499 or something like that

They were pretty heavy to haul out of the way since they are hydraulicly connected.
And they typically have a ****ty pump and pistons that leak.

I liked em when they worked, but found myself looking for a good hydraulic pump soon and those are expensive as F. , could easily have doubled the total price so ended up with the 1post lift which at 2500 is clearly more expensive, but way more practical.

I look at it as a write off from 45 till my 65.. 125 a year is cheap to not be crawling under cars no more
That lift is built for more usage than what I need, it won't wear out with my usage.

I hooked up an IR beam sensor on my roof, that cuts out the pump when I the roof of my car hits the beam

[pwd72s]

What's old becomes new again...lots of 50's cars ran cannister filters.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by svandamme

I think I paid 499 or something like that

They were pretty heavy to haul out of the way since they are hydraulicly connected.
And they typically have a ****ty pump and pistons that leak.

I liked em when they worked, but found myself looking for a good hydraulic pump soon and those are expensive as F. , could easily have doubled the total price so ended up with the 1post lift which at 2500 is clearly more expensive, but way more practical.

I look at it as a write off from 45 till my 65.. 125 a year is cheap to not be crawling under cars no more
That lift is built for more usage than what I need, it won't wear out with my usage.

I hooked up an IR beam sensor on my roof, that cuts out the pump when I the roof of my car hits the beam

Thanks for the info. I saw what looked like a foot pump, and that was one thing that had me wondering. I've never used a foot pump that was worth a darn except on the AC Hydraulic Jacks. I'd love to have one of their low-profile models. I've seen one and used one before and they are the pinnacle of floor jacks, but they are pricey, and I'm not ready to buy one in this house. Maybe when we move to our next house.

DK13HLQ

[aaron144]

I was tempted to install the spin-on conversation on my 996. However, I was convinced to keep the canister filter since it is easier to inspect for metal debris. This is a big advantage if you are concerned about looking for an IMS issue.

[masraum]

I got the Mahle filter in the mail yesterday. I don't know why, but I was expecting it to be bigger.

And something that I'd forgotten about and ran across the other day, is Wayne's 101 Projects for Your Boxster which has a section on oil changes. Per Wayne, in the book, the spin on oil filter is actually an upgrade over the stock canister filter.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/02-BASICS-Oil_Change/02-BASICS-Oil_Change.htm

Shown here is a full-flow spin-on oil filter adapter, allowing for use of a conventional spin-on oil filter, rather than requiring the use of expensive and inferior replacement cartridge-style filters. Manufactured by LN Engineering, this design makes changing your oil a somewhat simpler task. With the adapter, you no longer have to handle the filter cartridge, worry about contamination of the oil filter housing, or worry about cross threading the cheap plastic filter housing. The spin-on oil filter adapter also helps improve the longevity of your engine by providing full flow filtration, which means 100% of the oil gets filtered without having oil bypass the filter (an improvement over the factory design).

[jcommin]

I own a 944 Porsch. For years I changed my own oil. The filter is inverted and installed from the top. No matter how careful, it was messy. I can live with all of it - the issue is disposal. As I got older, I had it done by others. During the pandemic, I did change my oil. I'm now 70 and my body just doesn't bend like it used to. This really became a chore, and I still have the used oil and filter.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by jcommin

I own a 944 Porsch. For years I changed my own oil. The filter is inverted and installed from the top. No matter how careful, it was messy. I can live with all of it - the issue is disposal. As I got older, I had it done by others. During the pandemic, I did change my oil. I'm now 70 and my body just doesn't bend like it used to. This really became a chore, and I still have the used oil and filter.

I've got about 3 gal of oil from the wife's Outback in the garage. I need to figure out if/which one of the local parts places recycles and take it in. I'm about to have another 8 quarts to go with the 12 that I've already got. I was supposed to receive the new drain plug and crush washer yesterday, but the USPS took it to lunch or put it in timeout or something in Austin. It's back on it's way, so I'll either get it today or more likely tomorrow. I'll probably change the oil on Sun.

[juanbenae]

I got one of these for my jeep because there is no check valve on the OEM cartridge filter housing, so all the oil drains out of the top end of the motor leading to dry starts. The 3.6 has valve train issues as is so it was worth the cost for this Baxter unit. Holds the oil in the spin on filter so it does not take the 4-5 seconds to oils the top end of the motor. Cool part is a schrader valve is incorporated so with 30 PSI plus from a compressor it evacuates the oil held in the spin on filter and unit back into the crankcase.

https://www.baxterperformanceusa.com/spin-on-oil-filter-adapter-1.html

[GH85Carrera]

Originally Posted by masraum

I've got about 3 gal of oil from the wife's Outback in the garage. I need to figure out if/which one of the local parts places recycles and take it in. I'm about to have another 8 quarts to go with the 12 that I've already got. I was supposed to receive the new drain plug and crush washer yesterday, but the USPS took it to lunch or put it in timeout or something in Austin. It's back on it's way, so I'll either get it today or more likely tomorrow. I'll probably change the oil on Sun.

My understanding iis any parts store that sells oil, has to accept old oil. My local O'Rilley's takes mine if I have an over abundance and need to do yet another oil change.



The 32 mm socket fits perfectly on the top of the cartridge.