Pardon My Crack
 

So this was discovered during routine maintenance of a teak table top. Is it repairable or a lost cause?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1754763733.jpg

I am a convert to the power of epoxy. My opinion? Clean the crack. Swipe some epoxy in there. Clamp. Move on.

BUT, there are far smarter folks on this forum. Teak has oils that should make it harder to adhere. Don't go shopping for epoxy just yet. Smarter folks have yet to speak.

Plan B? Shoot some countersunk screws and plug the holes.

Good luck.

Thanks. I hadn't considered epoxy. I also like the countersunk screws idea. The table is probably 15 years old and has clearly been "rode hard and put away wet". Wife is so dedicated to that sander that I would hate to disappoint....

I'm a convert to the power of urethane glue.

Or this stuff, for outside:

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/supplies/adhesives/glue/114825-akfix-pa370-express-pu-wood-glue-marine-adhesive

Or System West epoxy.

Lots of ways to salvage it...

Use gorilla glue ( a PU glue) flip the table on its side, squirt some water in the crack, dribble in some gorilla glue, clamp..


The glue will foam up.. but when its cures you can scrape it off and sand flush..

No need for screws.

Milt might be afraid to click on this thread too :D

I thought this was going to be about a plumbing issue.

Pry it open a bit and prop it. Sneak in some Tightbond III wood glue with a butter knife, clamp over night.

I've used west system epoxy on outdoor teak furniture and it works great. Even in the Arizona sun and Idaho rains it's lasted for years. Clean any crap out of the crack with some alcohol, squeeze the epoxy in and clamp it up for about 24 hrs. It's a good idea to tape off the area surrounding the crack because the epoxy will ooze out and stain any wood it sticks too.

Thought this was going to be a plumber thread.
I'm out ....

^^^ That might be a crack too far! We can make it a two-fer - I always have some sort of plumbing challenge.... But as to the task at hand, I was gathering all the "stuff" to do this and realized that my exterior adhesive was no bueno. Will rectify and post results ASAP. Thanks all!

Both poly glue and epoxy are good. The joint is not in shear, in fact it's in the opposite of compression as it will want to spring free. Screws from the top are good but they are near the edge and then you have to fill them. That will always be visible.

Once glued and clamped there are a number of blind devices to be used on the underside from something as simple as a glue block gusset to metal clips and braces.

As the wood grain is not expanding lengthwise I would tend to use these on the long dimension.

Glue block:

https://pegsandtails.wordpress.com/w...141011_02a.jpg

Using some small screws or finish nails from the under side through the block at an angle is a pretty sure fire way to permanently fix that. If using poly you can wet the bent board the day before. The residual moisture will activate the polyurethane. Use dental floss or thread to get glue all the way into the last of that running break. Or a needle.

The base frame looks to be tucked well under the table top. Use that block on the outside of the frame board where that red wood is. You won't see it.

And use stainless steel screws from below with a good epoxy/urathane glue. Definitely stainless screws.

Not enough meat for a bottom shot fastener to work. I'd use either epoxy or pu.... but remember to spray the repair with water if using pu.
Me, after the clamp is cranked down I'd shoot a 1/4" dowel or two or three in at an off angle with adhesive, cut flush, and oil it all up when cured.... a well executed repair always adds character.

No need for fasteners for this fix. Tight bond III is water proof and good for outdoor furniture
Tight bond II is water resistant. I've used this glue successfully for my own outdoor fixes as well as clients

Gorilla but it will turn your hand black and makes a mess so I stick to Titebond III. Use it all the time in outdoor situations with great success. I think they are as good as Gorilla's PU glue. For exterior doors or wooden gates I still use PU glue for a piece of mind. OP, in your situation, just spend a few bucks and get the Titebond III glue and not worry about it for the many upcoming years. Do clamp it but don't starve that joint (over tightening).

Should you decide on PU glue, wet the mating surface for better adhesion. neither way, try and pry open that crack a bit and get the dirt out of there before the application of glue. A little sanding after and oil away.