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What size Air stapler ?
I am going to put plastic channels up between rafters, then staple fiberglass batts to 2x4.
What size of staples do i need to shoot for these tasks? Previously used a hand stapler, didnt penetrate the 120 year old fir rafters and the batts tore away. |
Are you stapling the channels? I'd use 3/8, 1/2".
Can't remember the last time I used a hand stapler. Got spoiled since I bought my battery one. Dont even use the pneumatic anymore. . |
I'd probably use a Stanley electric staple gun or something similar. I had no problems driving staples into old oak 2x4's
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Pneumatic stapler for hard wood. ¼" stance and 1⅛" legs will do the job
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I did buy a battery stapler last year but it was a giant pos so returned it and i borrowed by neighbors senco construction stapler but it only shoots 1”+ staples and thats too deep. Is there a 1/2 by 1/2 or 1/4? Im out of my depth here the offerings dont make sense. Matter of finding the right unit for the task. Right tool here will save me a lot of time. |
Or, you could put a bead of glue down one side of the battens and use a finish mailer on the glue side
Thus allows expansion and contraction preventing buckling |
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What is the easy correct way to do this? Are there batts that have better reinforcement? |
Glueing up one side is actually the easiest way and a fail safe method for temperature swings. If you use the right glue all you need is a pin nailer to hold it until the adhesives sets. With a pin nailer you see 0 fasteners
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I assume it not really plastic but hi density foam…is that correct? Did that in my house years back..T50 stapler…electric ic nice bit you have to drag the cord all over the attic.
I suggest this..simple and effective. If it didn’t penetrate before, use shorter staples with a point, not blunt tipped and hold the gun tight when deploying. Set with a hammer if not fully flush. https://img.uline.com/is/image/uline/H-2019?$LargeHD$ |
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Are you talking about faced bats with the flange? I read this stuff and have no idea, yet I was in construction for 50 years.
Insulators use a hammer stapler. Yes, short legs work best on old seasoned wood. For the channels you might want more accuracy than a HS will offer. If it's worth it to you (and things like this are cheaper now) get a powered one. Electric or air, doesn't matter. You might not like holding a cordless battery one up all day. But a manual one will wear your hand out. You can injure your hand if you go too long. But they are cheap and accurate. The funny thing about hammer staplers is that you will go through a lot more staples. People go crazy with them — they are fun. And you will miss a lot until you get good. If you get one, don't go cheap, they jam a lot. IDK if you need a Milwaukee, but..... https://www.milwaukeetool.com/--/web...a56fc4&lang=en |
^^^ Use this thingy. What's going on top of this insulation? Drywall? What's the channel for? Are we all talking about the same thing here and not rigid foam?
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Oh, I thought it was wooden battens. My advice was for wood
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Hammer staplers are nice, but they are huge pita to use overhead on rafters.
Your most commonly used staples are the T-50s . The size is in reference to the depth of the staple, 1/4, 3/8 1/2... etc... . |
By plastic channels I assume you mean the baffles that allow air flow between the batt insulation and the sheathing like provent or duravent?
How thick is the insulation, and how deep are the rafters? Are they 2x4 trusses (2x4 referenced in the first post) |
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I used a hand stapler before it was a joke. Hammer stapler… difficult. Overhead stuff. I want to put staples where i want with no fuss. Prolly 1/4” deep is fine, 1/2”? I just want to press trigger and insta staple. Quickly and well. So im looking for what? |
I would get a variety of staplers… ie, hammer, electric, etc. and staple depths 1/4 and 1/2. All are cheap and you can experiment while you install, to find what works best. A battery powered and hand stapler will wear your ass out in no time. A pneumatic stapler is quick and fast, but will get old wrestling with the hose.
The 1/4” staples should work. Once the insulation is up, it’s not like it’s going to fall down again by itself. Depending on the spacing of your rafters, the styrofoam baffles may stay in place by themselves or you could use a couple of tiger teeth to keep them in place. Then install the insulation. |
Ahhh..I have a Black and Decker electric stapler that will really drive them in. I have had to use it when stapling into maple and oak when attaching upholstery. It’s pretty old and pretty stout…not sure of the quality now.
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Ok, i dont know about any styrofoam. Im just putting in fiberglass vapor barrier baffles. Tacking them in through the vb.
I figured my staples werent fully driven, not wide enough. Is there a 1” by 1/2”? Or 1/2 x 1/4”? Looking at lowes and hd they dont have what i want. Maybe ill call a specialty place tomorrow. I think pnumatic is the way to go, i can walk around and be intentional and all the power i need. Do we agree on staple size? |
I would just use rigid foam and be done with it. Install a few screws into the rafters with a bit of head sticking out and jsut wrap some wires around it and move on to the next. Everything will stay in place. Use the wires every 6' or so. Cheap, no wrestling with falling insulation and higher R factor. Normally 3" is more then enough. Its better then what you have before in an older house. Are there ridge vents or any type of vents up on the roof now? I suggest a power vent installed near the ridge to keep air flowing. Some have a thermo-switch that can be set to go off at a certain degrees. That will get air flowing but do keep in mind that there must be enough vent to allow fresh air to flow through the attic. On those older homes, the air flow is usually pretty good. Large vents are normally found throughout unlike newer homes.
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https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-3-8-in-Crown-Stapler-Tool-Only-2447-20/302652845?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&gQT=1
Get this and be done with it if you are stilling thinking on batt insulation. That Milwaukee or their own Rigid brand will work. It will save you a lot of cussing. |
^^^ That and a couple of batteries.
I was thinking they were bigger in my earlier response. |
Have you considered saving some time and just having the attic area encapsulated with foam? It's a thing I guess.
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Rigid foam/encapsulation.
Not a lot of height I don’t want to pull the ceiling down 3”. I went through a whole thing where I planned out encapsulating but here it needs at least r48 to avoid condensation and it’s got to be perfect or you’ll get rot. House has survived this long, I don’t want to mess with a good thing. There’s soffit vents and a ridge vent, before I add insulation I’m running the channels up against the roof. I’m sticking with the mediocre fiberglass because it’s easy to install and good enough. Highest monthly bill is $155, average month is like $35 so there’s no savings to be had. I just, me, personally, don’t want the attic left uninsulated and the batts are falling down after all the bumping from getting a new roof.. I’m not keen on battery tools. I do own a little m12 clutched screw driver and I use it all the time but… I tried using it for doing joist hangers with Simpson screws and life was too short. my little battery isn’t going to run a stapler very long and I need to drive over 1000 staples. Suddenly it’s another $100 for another battery. Looks like my best choice is a pneumatic t50, they’re like $40-60 and I can up the power if I need to. Question is if the cheap things will jam. If it jams more than a little I don’t want it. Thanks all seems like 3/8” wide t50 will be great at 1/4” deep for the fiberglass, and 1/2 deep for the channels. |
What exactly are you trying to accomplish? You'll put at best R15 in the rafters if you're working with an old 2x4. R19 to R21 for an old 2x6. Why not put the baffles in the rafters, rent a blower from HD or Lowes and blow in fiberglass to an R40 value? You only need the baffles to extend above the blown insulation.
Can you post a pic of what you're working on? |
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OK, I’m confused. What are the channels?
Are they the Styrofoam baffles, that allow air to move from the soffits to the ridge? Then the insulation goes on top, between the rafters. At a minimum, you’re going to want to do something at the soffits, to allow air to flow You can buy a M12 Milwaukee battery on Amazon for $28 or four knockoffs for $40. I have two and they work just as well as the originals. https://a.co/d/adg1Kg5 http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1754953984.jpg |
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I'm not doing spray foam or anything that will be tough to undo like glue. Quote:
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I'm pretty sure I just want an air stapler. How would I control the power with that milwaukee battery thing? The wood laughed at the stanley/bostitch pos that I had before. What is the benefit of the milwaukee thing? Its lighter, easier to maneuver and no hose? I guess I'd love it if it didn't suck but I'm skeptical. Is some weird hangup I've got. I've used/borrowed plenty of battery tools and I'm just not feeling much love toward them. Probably because my friends all gush so hard. Anyway, I think I know what I want: a 3/8" t50 air stapler. I'm going to walk along with a helper, they hold the channels and I staple, then we do the batts. Finally I'll cover with some rolls of sheeting to keep the batts from leaking into the attic. |
Ok update I bought a $40 T50 air stapler at home depot and some boxes of staples. I also scored a small compressor off craigslist, a rolair jt10plus, for $120. Is nice I can carry it myself and its real quiet.
Wow is that combo nice. Went through almost 800 staples and each was about as much work and noise as pressing the space bar. Ran it at 65psi. Just a 'pst' and a perfect staple. Unreal. Never used a small air tool before, this thing is dreamy. The staples are a joke of course, its not a sheathing stapler, but def good enough for what I'm doing. |
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