What size Air stapler ?

[zakthor]

I am going to put plastic channels up between rafters, then staple fiberglass batts to 2x4.

What size of staples do i need to shoot for these tasks?

Previously used a hand stapler, didnt penetrate the 120 year old fir rafters and the batts tore away.

[VINMAN]

Are you stapling the channels? I'd use 3/8, 1/2".

Can't remember the last time I used a hand stapler. Got spoiled since I bought my battery one. Dont even use the pneumatic anymore.

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[cabmandone]

I'd probably use a Stanley electric staple gun or something similar. I had no problems driving staples into old oak 2x4's

[gregpark]

Pneumatic stapler for hard wood. ¼" stance and 1⅛" legs will do the job

[zakthor]

Originally Posted by VINMAN

Are you stapling the channels? I'd use 3/8, 1/2".

Can't remember the last time I used a hand stapler. Got spoiled since I bought my battery one. Dont even use the pneumatic anymore.

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1/2 wide by how deep?

I did buy a battery stapler last year but it was a giant pos so returned it and i borrowed by neighbors senco construction stapler but it only shoots 1”+ staples and thats too deep.

Is there a 1/2 by 1/2 or 1/4? Im out of my depth here the offerings dont make sense. Matter of finding the right unit for the task. Right tool here will save me a lot of time.

[gregpark]

Or, you could put a bead of glue down one side of the battens and use a finish mailer on the glue side
Thus allows expansion and contraction preventing buckling

[zakthor]

Originally Posted by gregpark

Or, you could put a bead of glue down one side of the battens and use a finish mailer on the glue side
Thus allows expansion and contraction preventing buckling

Wahhh. That sounds like a huge pita. Youre right about the batts moving.

What is the easy correct way to do this? Are there batts that have better reinforcement?

[gregpark]

Glueing up one side is actually the easiest way and a fail safe method for temperature swings. If you use the right glue all you need is a pin nailer to hold it until the adhesives sets. With a pin nailer you see 0 fasteners

[ben parrish]

I assume it not really plastic but hi density foam…is that correct? Did that in my house years back..T50 stapler…electric ic nice bit you have to drag the cord all over the attic.
I suggest this..simple and effective. If it didn’t penetrate before, use shorter staples with a point, not blunt tipped and hold the gun tight when deploying. Set with a hammer if not fully flush.
https://img.uline.com/is/image/uline/H-2019?$LargeHD$

[ben parrish]

[Zeke]

Are you talking about faced bats with the flange? I read this stuff and have no idea, yet I was in construction for 50 years.

Insulators use a hammer stapler. Yes, short legs work best on old seasoned wood. For the channels you might want more accuracy than a HS will offer. If it's worth it to you (and things like this are cheaper now) get a powered one. Electric or air, doesn't matter. You might not like holding a cordless battery one up all day. But a manual one will wear your hand out. You can injure your hand if you go too long. But they are cheap and accurate.

The funny thing about hammer staplers is that you will go through a lot more staples. People go crazy with them — they are fun. And you will miss a lot until you get good. If you get one, don't go cheap, they jam a lot. IDK if you need a Milwaukee, but.....

[look 171]

^^^ Use this thingy. What's going on top of this insulation? Drywall? What's the channel for? Are we all talking about the same thing here and not rigid foam?

[gregpark]

Oh, I thought it was wooden battens. My advice was for wood

[VINMAN]

Hammer staplers are nice, but they are huge pita to use overhead on rafters.

Your most commonly used staples are the T-50s . The size is in reference to the depth of the staple, 1/4, 3/8 1/2... etc...

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[dad911]

By plastic channels I assume you mean the baffles that allow air flow between the batt insulation and the sheathing like provent or duravent?

How thick is the insulation, and how deep are the rafters? Are they 2x4 trusses (2x4 referenced in the first post)

[zakthor]

Originally Posted by dad911

By plastic channels I assume you mean the baffles that allow air flow between the batt insulation and the sheathing like provent or duravent?

How thick is the insulation, and how deep are the rafters? Are they 2x4 trusses (2x4 referenced in the first post)

Yes! 1907 house with hard dry fir. Rafters are 2x4. Like concrete. Im putting channels down to flow air to the ridge. Then covering with fiberglass batts. No drywall for now. Its still an attic.

I used a hand stapler before it was a joke. Hammer stapler… difficult. Overhead stuff. I want to put staples where i want with no fuss. Prolly 1/4” deep is fine, 1/2”? I just want to press trigger and insta staple. Quickly and well.

So im looking for what?

[A930Rocket]

I would get a variety of staplers… ie, hammer, electric, etc. and staple depths 1/4 and 1/2. All are cheap and you can experiment while you install, to find what works best. A battery powered and hand stapler will wear your ass out in no time. A pneumatic stapler is quick and fast, but will get old wrestling with the hose.

The 1/4” staples should work. Once the insulation is up, it’s not like it’s going to fall down again by itself.

Depending on the spacing of your rafters, the styrofoam baffles may stay in place by themselves or you could use a couple of tiger teeth to keep them in place. Then install the insulation.

[ben parrish]

Ahhh..I have a Black and Decker electric stapler that will really drive them in. I have had to use it when stapling into maple and oak when attaching upholstery. It’s pretty old and pretty stout…not sure of the quality now.

[zakthor]

Ok, i dont know about any styrofoam. Im just putting in fiberglass vapor barrier baffles. Tacking them in through the vb.

I figured my staples werent fully driven, not wide enough. Is there a 1” by 1/2”? Or 1/2 x 1/4”?

Looking at lowes and hd they dont have what i want. Maybe ill call a specialty place tomorrow.

I think pnumatic is the way to go, i can walk around and be intentional and all the power i need.

Do we agree on staple size?

[look 171]

I would just use rigid foam and be done with it. Install a few screws into the rafters with a bit of head sticking out and jsut wrap some wires around it and move on to the next. Everything will stay in place. Use the wires every 6' or so. Cheap, no wrestling with falling insulation and higher R factor. Normally 3" is more then enough. Its better then what you have before in an older house. Are there ridge vents or any type of vents up on the roof now? I suggest a power vent installed near the ridge to keep air flowing. Some have a thermo-switch that can be set to go off at a certain degrees. That will get air flowing but do keep in mind that there must be enough vent to allow fresh air to flow through the attic. On those older homes, the air flow is usually pretty good. Large vents are normally found throughout unlike newer homes.