Anybody use Quickjack
 

There is a model 3500 on FBMP not too far away from here, for $1300 obo. I probably wouldn’t pay more than $1000. It’s their smallest model. I think maximum rise is 17 inches, which seems kind of low, but a lot of work could still be done.

Anybody use quick jack on their 911? What model number do you have and where do you jack the car up from?

I use the 7000 under my Boxster

What is your ceiling height ? If you can fit a conventional 2 post lift do it . You can also find 2 post lifts for lower ceilings . Buying used you can save $$$ . I bought my 7k rated 2 post lift years ago for $900.00 . It was still setup at the sellers place so I could see it operate . One of the best tool purchases I have ever made .

If height/space is a concern then a Maxjack or scissor lift is probably your best bet . For a long time I was the typical guy with a jack , jackstands and a creeper . But when you move up the DIY ladder and get a 2 post you will never look back . Being able to adjust to any height needed is invaluable , especially as you get older .

17" isn't much lift imo...

I'll be getting a Bendpak scissor lift soon ... for my 911 and Macan ... gotta decide which garage or basement to put it in first :D

I have one that I got before a conventional 4 post. It still comes out to do brake fluid flushes etc where I don't want to move a floor jack around, plus it locks mechanically so its safe. They're heavy though, and take a minute to set up, run and connect hoses etc.
Mine is a 7500.

I have a two car garage, with a low ceiling, so I don’t have room for a two post lift and a scissor lift will take up a lot of room. The left side of the garage has a workbench, 6 foot toolbox and shelving. The right side, is where we keep everything else.

If it only goes up 17–20 inches, that will only do the basics, but it would make it so much easier to do them vs a floor jack.

Is it possible to raise the 911 in lifts and support with jack stands, in between lifts? This would be quicker and easier than lifting it side to side.

At some point, I will probably want to pull the engine and transmission, to rebuild the transmission.

Doesn't answer your Q, but I used to have the snap-on, regret selling it:

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/654569-snap-scissor-lift-differences.html

With the solid deck, I used it alot, tractor, lift table, lifting heavy stuff to tailgate height. I see them occasionally on FB marketplace for around a grand.

I bought a thing called EZ car lift a few years ago. It goes up to 26”, so more than enough to remove the engine.

You use a drill to make it go up and down. The only real drawbacks are that you have to buy different cross bars depending on the width of each vehicle- I really think they could have made adjustable cross bars... and because the bars go between the uprights, you need some sideways room to slide the works under your car easily or you need to attach one side, shove it as far as go can and then attach the second one.

It is made in the US too.

Yes. Not sure where you'd place the stands. If you had clearance to drop the engine and trans I'd likely just lock the quickjack and leave it, assuming you had enough clearance - unsure if you would. Pelican likely knows?

Put the rear jack stands with the pad in the factory side point.
Put front jack stands in the front control arm cap.
Remove the quick jack.

I’ll need research some more. Quickjack shows cars being lifted from the rockers, with a split rubber block on the seam. Lifting from there, who would give more room for the jackstands I’m guessing.

I bought this one a few years ago. QUICKJACK BL-5000SLX 5,000 lbs.

I don't really like it(all complaints are probably user related). I have had my wife's xc60 fall off the stacked blocks. It will not lift my sons Tacoma high enough to get the tires off the ground. The 88 carrera works but I can't use the lift points because they are not in a straight line. I have seen them lift a 911 from left to right instead of along the length of the car(I have not tried that). It also does not go all the way back down without weight on it. I did have good luck with it with the 335d.

I bought the 5000SLX model. I don't think they sell it anymore (new). Instead, there's some 5000TL model?

I haven't used it on the 930, because it's so easy to just use a jackpad, floorjack, and jackstands. But it's useful on the 964, as there are jacking points on the floorpan inboard of the plastic rocker panels. I use the supplied rubber blocks and thick hockey puck-like pads I found on Amazon. I've used the Quickjack on our other daily drivers they're all cars, no SUVs) for routine maintenance as well.

There's a few posts here on Pelican around how best to use them, I bought a model (can't remember what capacity) for versatility with all the vehicles, used it to change out fuel lines and suspension work on the 911, had some issue with positioning on the chassis where it wouldnt cause damage.

If I was to do it again I'd probably go with a 2 post lift and dedicate a bay.

I'd suggest a search here, good writeups in this forum and Tech.

There's definitely a fiddle factor when using them. They're ridiculously heavy. You can't drive over them. And the lift points on your intended vehicle have to be somewhat inline, front-to-rear. So you're always moving them around (and did I mention they're heavy?), to store them when not in use or scooching them to line up with the jackpoints/axis of the vehicle. But once a car is up n the air, they feel solid.

Oil changes/wheel changes/brakes/suspension work is convenient with the Quickjack. But anything under the car, it still sucks to be on your back. A proper lift would be nice for those times. Ut sometimes ceiling height precludes that.

Our other cars are a 2014 F150 and a 2015 Tahoe, so I’m guessing they weigh 5k plus. I can use the smaller Quickjack on the 911, but not the trucks. If I bought a bigger one for the trucks, it probably would not work with the 911.

The trucks are high enough, that I can do a lot without raising them or I can drive them on my ramps. I don’t think I’ve ever raised beither one completely off the ground.

Each ramp weighs 66 pounds. That doesn’t sound too bad, until you’re trying to move them, I suppose. The lowered height is about 2.5 inches, so I would say that I could drive over them?



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1765080198.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1765080198.jpg

What I ended up doing was use them sideways/perpendicular on the 911, all the other cars (GLC300, F150, Q5, Acadia) work fine aligning them front to rear.

They ARE heavy, take some work to align the first time but the seam blocks help a lot. Storage can be a trick.

One thing to keep in mind is they dont lift straight up, you'll need some clearance front to back, or side to side if you use them as I did on the Porsche.

I store mine under a lowered r129 benz, you can drive over longitudinally no problem.
I don't think the heavier ones are much larger, haven't actually looked, but think its mostly just a bigger capacity cyl.
And yeah, you do need to allow for either fore/aft or lateral movement when you lift.
To beat the weight, there are youtube vids about using very low profile half ball casters. It does help when positioning them.

I have a Bendpak MDX6 and a maxjack. If you see yourself dropping a 911 engine/gearbox the maxjack won't be enough. For brake/suspension the maxjack is fine. Get some pinchweld lift blocks on Amazon. I got the Maxjack for my Mustang. I could drop the gearbox in front and roll it out the back. It's nice to have access to the full length underneath, whereas the Bendpak scissor stuff would get in the way. Actually, the scissor stuff got in the way for 911. I ended up sawing off the rear cross beam. For the scissor you'll need to mount it in the floor or park on ramps.

Been using mine for 5 years without issues. I have a 5000 I wouldn't buy anything smaller. Worked on the Panamera, Cayman and Macan with it and the only question that needed an answer was why I didn't buy it years earlier...