Filling gouges in wheels
 

I'm repainting my winter wheels and there's both minor curb rash and a few chunks taken out. Fill the chunks with JB Weld or is there something better?

Media blasted

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^^^ Ouch, What are they made of? Standard alloys or Magnesium?

Would it be possible to have that filled using a TIG welder?

There's a special aluminum filler rod available that melts at lower temperatures.
- All you need is something like a plumbers torch. It's a similar process to lead wiping.


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Low-temperature aluminum filler rods (often referred to as Alumiweld, Ultrabond, or flux-core aluminum brazing/soldering rods) melt at roughly 380°C to 450°C (716°F to 842°F), compared to pure aluminum, which melts around 660°C (1221°F).

I think the alloy wheel repair guys use some variety of welder to fill large nicks and then file/sand them smooth. That way it’s an actual metal on metal repair. JB Weld would probably work as a DIY substitute.

I think they are pressure cast aluminum. I am beginner TIG welder, I have a sense I would make a mess trying to fill that in.

I have used those filler rods, they are 97% zinc and 3% aluminum. I will try them, thanks.

That's what I thought. I'm going to try the filler Peter mentioned and look for an aluminum spool gun on FBMP. I wouldn' ry to TIG that but I would probably be able to MIG it with a little practive.

OK googling says I can't use the spool gun

Maybe you could pay an alloy wheel repair company for just the metal repair and then you do the final sanding, paintwork, etc?

JB weld is used commonly on cast iron machined parts. On an edge it is a good idea to drill in some wire stakes. 2 things I will caution, don't start a stress runner with a drill hole for a stake and don't heat enough to alter the heat treating.

To get a puddle started on a large object, even at the edge, requires some preheating so I'd bring the wheel up to 500º in an oven, blanket it and weld the missing area in small passes using low heat. I can see why a spool gun is not suitable. Too much heat too soon and too fast of cooling.

While welding is best, JB might do what you need if the tire mounting guy doesn't start right on your repair. The zinc stuff is not strong at all and the bond is very weak. Used on many die casting repairs of zinc die-casting alloy, it offers a very low melting point, but not AL.

I bet the wheels are bent, too. What if they’ve cracked or the structural is or gets messed up? How much to replace with something you’d like?

Or... You could buy a good second hand wheel.

Thanks Milt, you are correct about zinc but I've had decent luck with it a few times. For this fix, whether JB Weld or the zinc, surface area is key so I would sand above and below "30 thousandths" around the gouge to create a well. That way there's a lot of bonding surface area. Just filling the "tooth" I could see it fail.

I mount and balance my own tires so just need a sharpie arrow on the barrel at the repair area before paint and tape on top after paint so I know where the repair is myself.

They are somewhat rare, just did a quick search, 500 miles with FBMP, found one set 400 miles away but a good price, $600 for the 4. eBay has a cracked one for $200 and a wheel resto company has them at $600 each restored.

My hope is I'll be in for $2-300 of paint and clear that will be enough for both of my sets. Get the winter set done now, get them on the car and do to the summer set later this year.

As a point of reference, we paid a little over $300 to have a bent wheel repaired and repainted for the SL55 earlier this year.

More research at lunch yielded there are products made for this repair but comparing those to JB Weld, I think it's the best way to go.

I'd set the wheel up on that nice grid pattern mat you have there with the valve stem clocked at 12 o'clock so you can ref back to where the fix is. Then I'd take a picture of it for future reference.
No need for tape which could come off.

You said you had a camera, right?

THat's a really good idea Scott.

I'm also going to take a pneumatic pencil burr to the gouge and relieve any stress like I do with cracks in magnesium fan housings before filling with structural epoxy.

I have to get a new battery for it

Use your phone camera

Grinding a key into a repair is always good. I'd still at least dimple each end and put stuff wire in there, sprung or wedged to make a bridge from on side to the other. I put stakes, hoops, bridges, etc. in all fill repairs except TIG or MIG as they will melt the wire making it useless.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1792694255.png

Well if you had a camera like this one:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1792698019.jpg
that operates without a battery you'd be all set.

Of course you'd need to know how to shoot manually so maybe not...