Impact wrenches Air vs. electric?

[pwd72s]

Guys, Evren is cleaning up all the engine pieces, in disassembly mode after a breakdown. Waynes engine book says an impact wrench, either electric or air should be used in conjunction with the snap-on stud remover tool. So, is electric okay for a hobbyist wrench? Just how much better is air? Neither of us have used an impact wrench of any kind, so suggestions welcomed. We know air is best for a pro, but can an amateur do okay with electric?

[Joeaksa]

Remember that he would have get a 220v version, which might be more expensive and harder to find. I see them at times when I go to Europe but they are lots more expensive than we see on sale here in the states.

I prefer air but then have a compressor.

[coloradoporsche]

I bought a cheap battery-powered electric one and it's great for general use. I'm pretty sure the torque isn't as high as it's supposed to be, but it is still a great tool.

You can use the battery types for everything from automotive stuff to putting screws through wood, etc. I think mine puts out about 90 ft-lbs when fully charged.

If you need really big torque though (~100ft-lbs+), I think air is still the only way to go. But then you need a good compressor as well as the wrench.

Edit: I'm not sure about plug-in electric types.

[nine_one_4]

I bought a Ridgid R6300 electric impact wrench that puts out 450 ft-lbs of torque. I haven't used it yet, though, because I'm waiting for the impact socket I ordered.

[pwd72s]

Thanks guys...sending a link to Evren. Joe, Evren had the good sense to marry an architect. When Ruki remodeled their Istanbul home, she had the good sense to see that it ran on both 220 and 110.

[Rot 911]

Impact wrench to remove head studs? Does Wayne's book really say that? I have the snap-on tool and just used a regular wrench on it and lots of heat on the cylinder wall.

[speeder]

What Kurt said. When I heated mine up, (on the cylinder wall), they turned out easily by hand. I could not believe how easily. An impact wrench is completely unnecessary, and in fact has no place near a 911 motor for anything. And I own the best impact wrenches available.

[JeremyD]

I would think you'd have much more opportunity to break a stud with an impact wrench. Leverage is your friend for these delicate situations - I have found that a 17" to 24" breaker bar can dislodge just about everything. Like the others have said - you need heat - enough to melt the locktite - then steady leverage.

Now I did buy a Harbor Freight Cordless 19.2 Impact Wrench - mostly makes quick work of track tire on/off.

[pwd72s]

Originally posted by Kurt V
Impact wrench to remove head studs? Does Wayne's book really say that? I have the snap-on tool and just used a regular wrench on it and lots of heat on the cylinder wall.

Page 35, Wayne's book: "....the proper way to use the snap-on tool is with an impact wrench (either air or electric)..."

Page 36, photo 2-38 caption: "The best way to use the snap-on stud remover is in conjunction with an impact wrench and socket...."

Guys, Evren's engine is a 2.2. Magnesium, if I'm not mistaken. Isn't it risky to use flame on a Mag. case????

[speeder]

Call TRE @ (818) 509-0257 and ask them about the magnesium question, but I do not think that is true. (Risky to use heat on it).

[RoninLB]

Only a guess

Many times the issue can be setting up harmonics to disloge the connection without creating thread damage from "seized" threads.

An example would be an over torqued or rusted together lug nut.
One guy leans on the T wrench and the other guy wacks the end with a baby sledge.

btw.. IR's $175-$225 air is a great 1/2 impact.

[evren]

thanks for all the input guys... Paul is sending me the necessary tools now! will try it without an impact wrench first.

[Bob's Flat-Six]

I have a Sears Craftsman 110 volt impact that I bought new back in the 70's. It works great and has enough power to break lug nut on cars.
I used it just the other day for the first time in years but was glad I had it. It was weird thinking I bought it new over 30 years ago though,

[RoninLB]

Ingersoll-Rand "electric impact"


http://www.irtools.com/search/index.asp

[pwd72s]

Again, thanks for all the input guys...and a lesson for us all. The next time you're involved in a project, and a problem arises? As you grumble on your way to Home Depot and/or Sears, think of Evren in Istanbul with no home depot or Sears...you be amazed at how inventive he & I have become, getting parts and tools to Turkey. Parts...hooboy, the time delays! Six months can be speedy delivery for the things that must go by cargo ship....

My point is, we've got it made here...try to remember that.

[Superman]

Once the loctite is melted, head studs come out fairly easily. Without the loctite being melted, I suspect there is a substantial risk of snapping a stud or worse. And I would guess that this risk would greatly increase with use of an impact wrench. In other words, if you don't melt the loctite, I think you're likely to make a mess. More likely if you use an impact wrench. If you do melt the loctite (you will need a HOT flame for this....much hotter than propane), then you can use just about anything. I used a small pair of vise-grips. They came out easily.

[john70t]

Heat vs. 20-30y.o. chemically-fused stud integrity? Use both, I guess.

[cashflyer]

The ignition temperature of massive magnesium is very close to its melting point of 650 degrees C (1,202 degrees F). However, ignition of magnesium in certain forms may occur at temperatures well below 650 degrees C (1,200 degrees F). For example, magnesium ribbons and shavings can be ignited under certain conditions at about 510 degrees C (950 degrees F), and finely divided magnesium powder can ignite below 482 degrees C (900 degrees F).

So, keep it under 900 degrees F.

Loctite website:For Disassembly, apply localized heat to nut or bolt to approximately 250°C. Disassemble while hot.