Framing for a commercial roll up door

[rfuerst911sc]

So after selling my truck camper project I now have a 18x18 open front carport . Walls are 11 ' tall . I have a contractor quoting the job . When he was here to look it over he suggested to use 6x6 posts for the garage door side and header framing . With the rest being 2x6 framing for the front wall .

Is it common or acceptable to use 6x6 posts to support the garage door ? It sounds good but not sure I have ever seen that . I may just be stuck in conventional building mode . I plan on using a commercial 8x8 roll up door . Any comments/suggestions ?

[wilnj]

Lumber or steel?

I’m sure someone able to do the math will jump in but for an 11’ high door, if using steel, I think a 3x3 is fine.

If you’re using lumber it’s not my wheelhouse.

[rfuerst911sc]

Lumber . Door will be 8 ' x 8' . And there will be a 36x80 entry door . The 8x8 door will be centered with the entry door to the left . I am thinking about a window to the right . Metal siding run horizontally to match the rest . See pic below .

[Dantilla]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

Door will be 8 ' x 8'

If you bump up to 10 x 10, I doubt you will ever say: "Gee, I wish this door was smaller"

Both my boat and flatbed trailers are 8'-6" wide, and easily backed through the 10 x 10 door I had at my old hangar.

just a thought....

[rfuerst911sc]

Originally Posted by Dantilla

If you bump up to 10 x 10, I doubt you will ever say: "Gee, I wish this door was smaller"

Both my boat and flatbed trailers are 8'-6" wide, and easily backed through the 10 x 10 door I had at my old hangar.

just a thought....

Yeah I have been waffling between 8x8 or 10x10 . I have 5 vehicles , a car trailer and a 5th wheel camper . They all have a home under roof . Visually I think a 8x8 will look better . Appreciate the suggestion .

[Zeke]

Typically there would be 3 studs either side of the header, 2 jacks and a king. Since the 6 x 6 is still going to need jacks unless it is notched, I don't particularly see the point. A man door and a window plus the roll up pretty much calls for one continuous header across all the openings with the man door and window framed down to their proposed height.

But there are more ways to skin this cat so you could set 3 individual headers but you're gonna need a lot of studs in that span. I'd just go with what uses the least amount of lumber and also remembering that larger lumber does twist, etc. more than 3+ studs nailed together and strapped.

I have to admit that a glue lam above with 6 x posts would be hell for stout. Might as well put a hook or eye up there for a chain fall when you need to lift something.

(edit) I kinda rambled a bit there. A continuous header with 6 x 6 posts set in post hardware appropriate for top and bottom, either side of the big door, probably aren't going anywhere and somewhat simplifies the framing. My limited experience in areas that use a lot of southern yellow pine tells me large dimensional lumber is not common. The quality of a 6 x 6 is important. Out here where we use fir the big stuff is crap anymore.

[rfuerst911sc]

Milt I just called a 2nd contractor , he is coming tomorrow morning to measure and give quote . But he was very clear he will build conventional laminated headers . I may call a 3rd so I have three quotes . My plan is to enclose the inside with plywood . Makes it much stronger and so easy to hang stuff off of . We shall see .

[gregpark]

I enlarged my opening to 19' and framed for 2- 9' wide doors. You would be surprised how much difference a 9 foot door makes compared to 8 so a 10 foot opening would be dramatic. A 4x4 post sandwiched with 2x4s to support the middle of the header and sistered 2x4 studs as posts at the sides. One door with an electric opener and one dead bolted door I manually push up (the only doors into the shop). If my power goes out I can always get in and the manual door is much faster than the electric opener.

[herr_oberst]

You painted a basketball key onto your driveway! Awesome!

[look 171]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

Milt I just called a 2nd contractor , he is coming tomorrow morning to measure and give quote . But he was very clear he will build conventional laminated headers . I may call a 3rd so I have three quotes . My plan is to enclose the inside with plywood . Makes it much stronger and so easy to hang stuff off of . We shall see .

That's good. I like and always spec for laminated or some type of engineered big "stick" instead of timber when possible. All will actual be fine. The 6x6 pole may twist over time especially in your area with high humidity.I really don't think there's a real need for that. Again they do work in the area and should know what works or now. It is a very simple job.

[rfuerst911sc]

Yep relatively simple job . I am sticking with the 8x8 door . This will be a glorified shed . I already have a 24x26 man cave , a 24x24 parking garage plus one car parking in the basement . Add to that a 28x30 RV carport . If that's not enough space I will let the next guy worry about it 😁

[Zeke]

The size of the door isn't going to break the bank. Just make sure 8 feet will always be enough. I have a typical 7' high residential sectional door which is in the opening a little bit fully open. That leaves about 6' 9" or so net height. Only the little 36 inch skid steer can get in there if and when I decide to redo the concrete. If you get 8 feet net, you probably won't regret it but I won't argue with bigger is better when it comes to overhead doors.

Let's say I want to get a Bridgeport mill someday. It will have to come in on a rolling pallet, not a trailer of any kind.

[rfuerst911sc]

Milt there are no Bridgeports in my future . But I get what you are saying . The largest items I own that will live in this building is a JD X740 tractor with 60 " deck and a pull behind leaf vacuum. I am 68 years old and winding down with " stuff " . But I may rethink the door size . I have time to make the final decision .

[A930Rocket]

Go big or go home.

You can frame for a bigger door and furr it down for the 8x8.

Have you priced out the different door sizes?

[rfuerst911sc]

Originally Posted by A930Rocket

Go big or go home.

You can frame for a bigger door and furr it down for the 8x8.

Have you priced out the different door sizes?

8x8 commercial roll up doors around here are $740.00 to purchase . A 10x10 roughly $1200.00 . An 8x8 doesn't require the chain drive to open/close . I have been told 10x10 and larger really should have the chain drive because of th3 height . The chain drive adds roughly $250.00 . As I get older I don't want to struggle to get the door opened and closed .

I don't anticipate ever needing more than 8 ' height . But " might " need more than 8 ' width . This has me thinking I might explore a 8x9 door . I have 8x9 panel doors on the parking garage and it is MUCH easier to park the dually thru those doors . I will discuss that with this mornings contractor and will go from there .

[sc_rufctr]

Those commercial roll up doors must be very heavy.

- Is it worth getting an engineer to look over your plans?

[john70t]

Neat little trick to make strong metal corners
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/lBh4oJ8omgM
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/pE6grFumEWc
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/-Cyp6KBNZwo

[rfuerst911sc]

Called a door vendor today , they stock a 9 ' wide x 8 ' tall commercial roll up for $1250.00 plus tax . So $1350.00 out the door ( pun intended ) . Basically $600.00 more than the 8x8 . Is one foot worth it ? I will have to make that decision .

If the framing/finishing quote is reasonable it will make the decision easier . If the quotes are crazy high I may dust off the framing nailer

[gregpark]

9' vs 8' width is a big advantage for vehicles. Bigger than you would think

[rfuerst911sc]

Well a little bit of internet sleuthing I have found a one year old 9x8 commercial roll up door for $400.00 . Pics look good and comes with all hardware . Trying to confirm with the seller that I can pick up tomorrow . I hope luck is on my side .