Outfit My Road Bike!

[jyl]

I would like to get some suggestions on what bike parts I should be collecting for my bike project.

Our goal here is the balancing of aesthetics, ineffability, taste, and function in a process that combines the pleasure of a treasure hunt with the education of a newbie bike mechanic and culminates in a bike that could be wall art (but won't).

In other words, I'm really looking for help in making the end result stylish and pretty. Sure, it should "work", but a $500 bike at the corner bike shop "works".

This is to be my first road bike in over 30 years. Old guy = old bike, so I'm starting with this frame and fork. Sorry, I can find no images of this on the web, so a crappy cellphone picture it is.



This is roughly a 1995-1997 frame. Carbon tubes, aluminium lugs, integrated headset. In the day, it was likely fitted with pretty high level stuff.

Okay, let's outfit it.

Some of the bits are already here, though I don't absolutely have to use them. I have a set of Campy Record 9 Titanium levers, a Record 9 Titanium rear dérailleur, and a Record brakeset. All alloy, no carbon. My levers look like



I could get a Record front dérailleur. I could switch out the shifter cam to convert the shifters to 10 speed. I could get the carbon Record levers if that shape is better, they look like



Potentially I could even use an entirely different make of shifter/derailleur, though I do have these bits already.

There is no crankset or bottom bracket. I could get a Record or Chorus crankset. It could be alloy or, to echo the frame, carbon. I could go for the Ultra Torque crankset. I could get an entirely different make of crankset, for a different look, e.g.:



There's a silver quill stem and black aluminium bar. I could keep those, unless it is too much black. Or I could get silver. Or carbon. I could get a quill adapter to allow a threadless open face stem. I could use something wild like



Then I could use ovalized bars, swoopy carbon bars, etc. Even something like:



The only conceptual restriction on the stem/bar is that I want road drops, not bullhorns or aero bars.

At the butt end, I'm limited in my choice of seat posts by the 25.4mm diameter seat tube. So far I can only find the old 1980's and earlier posts, like C-Record aero:



Or a new, round alloy BMX post in any color - since BMX still uses this diameter. I think carbon is not really an option, they were made in 25.4mm by Look and others but just don't turn up for sale at non-stupid prices (at any price, really). Maybe they all broke.

The saddle is going to be dictated by my bum, but I like the Selle Italia Flite and it has a nice shape, so that's what I may go with.



But there's still color to play with . . .

Finally, the wheelset. I'm wide open here. The super deep carbon rims look a little silly to me (like annular billboards) but otherwise I'm open to carbon, alloy, gray, silver, aero, standard, radial, bladed, etc. And to any kind of hub.

Whatever looks good. And takes clinchers.

Any suggestions, inspiration pics, "if it were me I'd . . ."? I have plenty of time to collect these bits so even somewhat obscure options are worth considering.

I was almost decided on a "Tout Mavic" project, but Mavic didn't make brifters and I do want those, and anyway that would have pre-dated the bike a little.

[gtc]

I think you're on the right track with the alloy levers and derailleurs. Old bikes with new parts (like those Cinelli stems) just don't look right. I'd go with some simple Record/Open Pro wheels and some silver Campy cranks. Maybe tie into the yellow decals with some matching bar tape, tires, saddle trim, etc.

[look 171]

Putting on those Cinelli bar and stem is like putting on 20" wheel in an SC. Find some silver crank, like gtc said, and keep the bar and stem you have there. As far as the seat post, I had never been a big fan of aero seat post. Campy Super Record made a 25.5 round post for those frames. I have one in really good shape, but not ready to sell it. I am not sure what I am saving it for? It is just so pretty and its a Super Record. Super rare to have a 25.5 SR post. If you really can't find one, them let me know. I get those carbon Campy levers with a ten speed rear Derailleur. The hoods are super comfortable if you plan to do a lot of riding. Otherwise, keep the campy lever you have there and just get a derailleur that will work with them.

On the other hand, I would put a Dure Ace 9 speed group set on it and be done with it. I am a big fan of the 9 speed group. I have had three of them and they can take a bit of abuse, but they just work flawlessly. Plus, it is period correct if that's important to you. BTW, I am not sure about the Stronglight Crank. Never have been a big fan of French components.

[Jim Bremner]

the cinelli stem is a great stem for a short distance. there's zero flex in it.

Like Look 171 said do some research on the crank. there's some stronglight cranks that aren't all that strong.

Ditto on 9 speed Dura ace. cheap n good

[nikita76]

You've got a few things going on here:

While the bonding process for the tubes and lugs were revolutionary when the frame came out, shelf life for the Vitus/Alan frames were never given more than 5 years. This will be shorter depending on how much you weigh.

9/10 speed hubs and cassettes didn't exist so check to make sure the spacing will work. If you have to force it, it's not worth it.

While the Cinelli stuff is really nice, you can't use a threadless stem with a quill type fork. Also, that bar and stem combo is north of $400.00

Speaking of the fork, you're going to feel every bump and peeble thru your hands, wrists, and arms because of the aluminum fork(I used to ride this frame)

With the direction of the parts you seem to be leaning towards, I would recommend a nice lightweight steel frame. Maybe something in a Reynolds 531. Also, while the frame is snappy and quick, unless you weigh less than 170, that bottom bracket area is going to be quite flexy.

ND

[Laneco]

Make sure the spacing at the rear can accomodate the 9 speed before you spend the dough on it... My early 90's bikes could not.

I'm really diggin' the vintage look on this bike, and think you should carry that theme throughout. So no carbon components, no 9 speed or 10 speed stuff, etc. Definately not that handlebar set.

I think that you could outfit this bike the way it was "back in the day" at a surprising bargain. It's sort of between what most people are currently calling vintage (e.g. 70's Cinelli, etc) and the newer 9 speed plus components.

I'm even thinking that down-tube shifters would be sweet on this. Of course, you could always make it a single speed. That bike would be a sweet single speed.

By the way, I feel obligated to warn you...that front fork is like riding a pile driver. It will beat the **** of you - no kidding. I rode one for years. If you keep this frame, upgrade the fork to carbon (which would kind of go with the frame).

angela

[look 171]

Angela,

Was it a Vitus. I have heard those were very soft, even with the Alum fork. It was the Klein or Canandale that got the bad rap. I raced a Cadd3 for two seasons. you get use to the frame (the beat you up part. Well, I was younger and like to suffer.) after a couple of months, but I had a carbon fork on it. While I am a big fan of carbon, I fine myself grabbing my alum/carbon fork and stays Torelli when I go out for a ride. I like the quickness feel of the alum frame. I know I am the minority here.

[jyl]

Rear dropout spacing is 130mm so I can put the later stuff on it.

Sounds like sentiment is for a more period-correct, less blingy look?

Well, older parts are cheaper :-) So, alloy crank and traditional wheels, round post.

Yellow seat/bar tape, or white seat/tape, to play off the decals? I had thought basic black, but if the fork gets replaced with a carbon one, that'll be a lot of black . . .

Polish the lugs to shiny, or leave them dull?

[Dottore]

Originally Posted by jyl

Our goal here is the balancing of aesthetics, ineffability, taste, and function in a process that combines the pleasure of a treasure hunt with the education of a newbie bike mechanic and culminates in a bike that could be wall art (but won't).

....well, since you are after ineffability....

[Laneco]

Originally Posted by look 171

Angela,

Was it a Vitus. I have heard those were very soft, even with the Alum fork. It was the Klein or Canandale that got the bad rap...

I had that fork on a schwinn - one of the mono-stay rears that mimic'd the Klein. I sold the frame and made the mistake of moving the equipment and fork onto another frame, also Aluminum - I think it was a specialized. Again, nasty.

Someone suggested that I'd really like the ride of the carbon fork, so I bought one. After riding it on day, I threw the aluminum fork in the dumpster.

The Vitus itself may ride compliant enough to make up for the fork. I've never ridden one so perhaps you are correct and the frame is soft enough to make up for the fork. Maybe the best choice is to ride and try. I'd stay away from 19 tires though - probably start out with at least 25's.

angela

[nostatic]

Vitus was considered a "wet noodle" back in the late 80's/early 90's, at least with the guys I knew. A friend had an aluminum frame version that was too small for me, but even then the thing was a flexy flyer. My take would be that frame/fork combo will not ride stiff at all, and I would wonder about the longevity of the frame. Probably ok as long as you're not hammering it in crits, but I don't think I'd like doing 40+ mph down a mountain road on that.

For cruising around though should be fine. I'd go more old school, and I actually prefer barcons to any STI type setup. You should be able to find an 8-speed drivetrain no problem. Find some older wheels (MA-2 if you're really old school, or maybe Open4CD), cork tape on some decent bars and call it good. For old school stuff, this is a good source (or at least used to be):

Lugged Steel Bicycles, Wool Clothing, Leather Saddles & Canvas Bike Bags from Rivendell Bicycle Works

[nostatic]

A little food for thought (there are reasons I only own titanium or steel frames )

Busted Carbon

[Bob Goding]

25 years or so ago, I worked in composites at our International Airline, and became the fixit man for my local bike shop. The early Vitus bonded frames
that I repaired seemed to have a life of about six years before glue joint failure.
The carbon ones were worse due to electrolitic corrosion between the carbon and the alloy---but they were repairable. I developed a set of screw jacks to open the frames to allow cleanup and rebonding. I used Boeing epoxy back then, but I think
JB-Weld would be as good today. I still have three or four frames here,I might get around to repairing someday,
The cost of going 10 speed[or 11] would be too much for me,but I solved that problem by using a triple chainring. I f you are buying a front derailleur, anyway,just get a triple ,the 9-speed Campy lever should change three.
I am 74 now so the big ring doesnt get much use,these days.
I also have 'manufactured' seatposts by finding one with a bonded tube and replacing with a machined one--25 mm as I recall--[25.4 is one inch,of course]
I ride the Selle Italia Flight saddle and it suits me. I have also had some success re-spacing my 9 speed Shimano cassettes to suit the Campy mechs. remember Google is your friend!
Might be easier to fit all Shimano, cheaper and still pretty good.
I will buy your 9-speed Campy levers if you dont want them.
Heres a pic of my latest 'project'--I bought the frame e-bay,damaged and gathering stuff as finances permit.

Good luck and enjoy your Vitus,whatever you put on it!

[look 171]

Todd, I don't understand carbon seat posts, stems, and handlebars.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by Laneco

I had that fork on a schwinn - one of the mono-stay rears that mimic'd the Klein. I sold the frame and made the mistake of moving the equipment and fork onto another frame, also Aluminum - I think it was a specialized. Again, nasty.

Someone suggested that I'd really like the ride of the carbon fork, so I bought one. After riding it on day, I threw the aluminum fork in the dumpster.

The Vitus itself may ride compliant enough to make up for the fork. I've never ridden one so perhaps you are correct and the frame is soft enough to make up for the fork. Maybe the best choice is to ride and try. I'd stay away from 19 tires though - probably start out with at least 25's.

angela

All my tires are 23mm. My rile of thumb is to pump no more then 100-110 lbs into my tires if I were going out for a long ride that last more then 3 hours (automatic suspension) Unless I was going out with the hammerheads then I would need all the advantage I can even If I had to ride a rock. I have been riding continental GP4000, I don't know what's the latest and the greatest, they have been by far the best feeling tires that does not ride like rock while pumped to the max. Cheap tires with stiff sidewalls, no thanks.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by jyl

Rear dropout spacing is 130mm so I can put the later stuff on it.

Sounds like sentiment is for a more period-correct, less blingy look?

Well, older parts are cheaper :-) So, alloy crank and traditional wheels, round post.

Yellow seat/bar tape, or white seat/tape, to play off the decals? I had thought basic black, but if the fork gets replaced with a carbon one, that'll be a lot of black . . .

Polish the lugs to shiny, or leave them dull?

i don't care too much about period correctness. Latest components work well like that Campy in your pic. I am a big fan of MAvic wheels, so I have to retract my statement about the French. Time and Look are great. Try a pair of Ksyrium wheels. If not,have a shop build you a set of 32 holes, 3 cross Mavic Reflex SUP rims with your choice of hub. Absolutely bomb proof and light, yet strong enough for daily abuse. Yes abuse. I can't help you with the look dept. but I will say this, yellow or white saddle will turn black. Its just a matter of time. Make my saddle black please. I think this stem will look great on your bike. I had one on my look and really miss it. Cinelli Pinocchio Stem - Cinelli - Euro-Asia Imports This is another one I like which I had on my ICE. It is the first one, the Eclipse Stems

[intakexhaust]

Quite a few comments on that Vitus frame - bonded tube / lugs. Someone I used to ride with years back had a similar frame by Trek. He was a big guy, strong rider and a chainstay to the bottom bracket broke loose. Trek covered it under warranty and sent him a new frame, on which he promptly sold it. Not sure if it was fluke but I think if you fall into the big guy, strong rider catagory, just something to think about.

As for carbon frames, I used to ride Kestral monocogue road and also off-road (hard tail)framesets. Stiff if thats what you want. I worried a few times after some hard crashes but never had an issue. My faves are steel frames from Ritchey and vintage Colnago.

Getting back to the topic of components, I'd first decide on a wheel build and what kind of a rider you are. Spend the money on the right set of wheels and you can easily sacrifice on the eye candy components. A topic too much to cover here but if you do some research, it's about quality, rolling resistance and outer mass. I've ridden many different wheels and designs on a same frameset and I honestly feel the aero talk of a bike wheel is more novelty.

Wheels are different for everyone and the type of riding. One of my best wheelsets I regretfully sold to someone in Japan was built with Nuke proof hubs, 32 hole, front radial laced with carbon bladed spokes (forgot the name of the company and not sure if still around???), spline drive nipples, Campy Lambda rims and the rear was 32 hole with ti spokes radial laced on the non drive side and a triple cross on the drive side. Also used titanium gear sets on the bigger gears. You would think it was wippy but actually so quick under sprint, light, stiff and a ride to die for on club century's.

[jyl]

Medium guy, weak rider here . . . I'll be secretly pleased if I ever break that frame with my prodigious chicken legs.

Got some Athena 9 spd levers cheap, they will be cannibalized to fix the Record levers. I have bar-ends on my hybrid bike and definitely want to try brifters. I'm fighting old-fogey status here.

Found a source for the missing bits on the brakeset. Searching eBay for a few more bits. And researching wheel building. I think I should be able to do it, and it sounds kind of fun.

[look 171]

YOu mean building wheels yourself? That ought to be fun. Too bad you are not closer to me down here. You can borrow all of my wheel building stuff for as long as you need. You can even take the different wheels for a spin for as long as you want. I am done building wheels (I still want to build one more a super light set, like a 280 gram rim) just for the heck of it when I have nothing to do. That's hard to come by these days with the kids. I would start with a front wheels first. Dishing the rear wheel can be a pain in the rear.

[jyl]

I judge everything in reference to adjusting 911 valves. I figure if X is easier than laying with my cheek on a hot engine, blindly feeling a gap with a gauge clipped to a burnt finger, I will do X. If X is harder, then I won't.

So, is wheel building easier or harder than adjusting 911 valves?

Assume I get all the right tools.

Err, which would they be?

Do I get the truing stand AND the dishing tool? Should I get a spoke tension gauge? Since we're talking tools here, the dollars don't count (like the calories in chocolate don't count).