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-   -   Air compressor recommendations? (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=643568)

intakexhaust 12-29-2011 09:54 AM

Agree with you posters going with the big old industrial compressors. Buying those maint. free clackers is all hot air, garbage and don't last. You mentioned using air drivers; I would suggest at least a 220v wired, big air tank, V-configured (2 or 4 cyl with a big flywheel pulley) and with that size, they are two stage. Run synthetic oil (Amsoil is excellent in compressors). Having around 14 CFM is really ideal for your bigger pneumatic drivers but also for spraying with HVLP guns.

Once you have that, spend the money in a quality filter set-up and regulator. Also, I've often noticed shops with all this fancy stuff and with a big compressor but they fail to utilize it for what it really can do! Don't buy cheap hoses with a small I.D. and that goes for the couplers too. You want that air volume, including for spraying. This is different than talking about pressure. Been there and still doing it - Cheers, Scott

intakexhaust 12-29-2011 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rnln (Post 6460245)
Alright, I scored an old small belt driven one, for real cheap. Brought it home, replaced the hose and it's going well. I can turn it on all night in the garage and it can NOT be heard from outside :D. It says it can get up to 100 PSI but I can only pull it up to 90 max. I tried to shoot some nails and it went well. Now, I can't find any place to replace or refill oil. Any one know about this air compressor?
It is a Magna Force. SCFM is between 4 to 7. Model number is 64A150-14. It looks just like the pic below. I searched the net but can't find manual.

https://www.biddergy.com/uploaded/20...acDSC04275.JPG

http://www.purplewaveauction.com/a/2...0515/6341B.JPG


The oil level and fill is in the lower picture and facing you, in the middle of the crankcase are two plugs. The lower is drain and the upper is fill. If it has a little dip stick, use that but if not, fill to the bottom of that particular plug. Don't overfill.

For the pressure, if you know your regulator is working and adjusted at the max but still not getting a full 100psi rating, pull the cover off of where the pressure SWITCH is. To find that, follow the electrical power lead from the motor and it may or may not be where the power on/off switch is, but its nearby. Once you find it, pull the cover and most likely it will have a screw with a nut for locking it down. If it has the locking nut, loosen it and crank the adjusting screw in a bit. DON't over adjust. Test run the compressor and you would be safe to set it for 125 psi. Secure that lock down nut (if it has it) and replace the cover.

rnln 12-29-2011 10:12 AM

Thanks. I have 2 questions.
what type of oil to use? Does it matter or any grade? How often do you replace oil?
Manufacture specification is 100 PSI max, is it safe to crank it up to 125 PSI if possible?

intakexhaust 12-29-2011 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rnln (Post 6460775)
Thanks. I have 2 questions.
what type of oil to use? Does it matter or any grade? How often do you replace oil?
Manufacture specification is 100 PSI max, is it safe to crank it up to 125 PSI if possible?

It won't take much oil, but since you just got it, drop the oil and refill with an SAE 30 weight. Depends on the environment, moisture and heat / cool cycling and if its a heavy daily use or not, thats basically what you have to judge when or how often to change. If you're particular about your stuff and that compressor doesn't have any oil leaks, you might consider a synthetic oil.

125 psi is OK. Snug the headbolts too.

Out for the day and have fun in the shop

RoninLB 12-29-2011 10:53 AM

Synthetic compressor oil if the compressor sees winter cold otherwise it won't turn over

for my act a 60 gallon / 5hp is just about good enough for home auto painting and impact guns


the local Snap-On guy may have used compressors for cheap. Small body shops come and go quickly and the Snap-On guy reposes. It's how I got mine

rnln 12-29-2011 11:46 AM

Since you said SAE 30, I guess mineral 5-30 is ok too?

1990C4S 12-29-2011 12:44 PM

It is typically straight 30 non-detergent. Basically 'engine break-in' oil.

rnln 12-29-2011 01:19 PM

Is it something hard to get or I can get it at any autopart store like autozone?

Rufblackbird 12-29-2011 01:55 PM

i think non detergent oils are easier to find at Home Depot/Lowes/home improvement stores where the lawnmowers and weed wackers are.

rnln 12-29-2011 02:49 PM

ok, I got that at home, for the chain saw. Thanks all.

RoninLB 12-29-2011 05:18 PM

I go to a compressor shop for parts and compressor oil

intakexhaust 12-29-2011 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1990C4S (Post 6461076)
It is typically straight 30 non-detergent. Basically 'engine break-in' oil.

NO. Non detergent is just that exactly, no additives not about break-in. Also NO to the other q about mineral oil. Anyhow, you don't need a detergent oil because you're not using it for cumbustion applications but don't sweat it, just get some straight weight 30 in there or as mentioned above, synthetic.

Since were still on the topic, drain the tank often. Condensation builds rapidly in any environment due to the heat / cool cycle.

1990C4S 12-30-2011 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by intakexhaust (Post 6462013)
NO. Non detergent is just that exactly, no additives not about break-in. Also NO to the other q about mineral oil. Anyhow, you don't need a detergent oil because you're not using it for cumbustion applications but don't sweat it, just get some straight weight 30 in there or as mentioned above, synthetic.

Since were still on the topic, drain the tank often. Condensation builds rapidly in any environment due to the heat / cool cycle.

You say 'NO', but then state the same thing? Break-in oil is non-detergent 30W (usually). Anyway, what I meant was use straight 30W non-detergent which is easy to find.

rnln 03-10-2012 01:35 AM

I went to sears and found the SAE30, oil for air tool. The problem is that I don't know if mine old compressor (pics above) is 2 cycle or 4 cycle. They have diff. type of oil for those. Anyone know?

rfuerst911sc 03-10-2012 03:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rnln (Post 6613422)
I went to sears and found the SAE30, oil for air tool. The problem is that I don't know if mine old compressor (pics above) is 2 cycle or 4 cycle. They have diff. type of oil for those. Anyone know?

A couple of things to note. Is your compressor powered by an electric or gas motor ? If it's a gas motor I am 99.9% sure it will be a 4 cycle. The oil you found sounds like it is for air tools not the compressor. To my knowledge they are two different oils.

azasadny 03-10-2012 07:44 AM

My friends who have compressors, love their old Craftsman models...

rnln 03-11-2012 03:14 AM

it's electric.
Ok, so air tool oil is not air compressor oil. Got it. Lucky I decided to ask before purchase, save a trip to sears.
When you guys says "straight 30", is SAE 30 = straight 30? I usually see SAE 30.
Is the oil in the link below ok for my electric air compressor motor? It says "compressor oil" but there is no grade indicated.
32 fl. oz. Compressor Oil

rfuerst911sc 03-11-2012 04:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rnln (Post 6615395)
it's electric.
Ok, so air tool oil is not air compressor oil. Got it. Lucky I decided to ask before purchase, save a trip to sears.
When you guys says "straight 30", is SAE 30 = straight 30? I usually see SAE 30.
Is the oil in the link below ok for my electric air compressor motor? It says "compressor oil" but there is no grade indicated.
32 fl. oz. Compressor Oil

Yes that is compressor oil vs. air tool oil.

Superman 03-11-2012 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rnln (Post 6615395)
it's electric.
Ok, so air tool oil is not air compressor oil. Got it. Lucky I decided to ask before purchase, save a trip to sears.
When you guys says "straight 30", is SAE 30 = straight 30? I usually see SAE 30.
Is the oil in the link below ok for my electric air compressor motor? It says "compressor oil" but there is no grade indicated.
32 fl. oz. Compressor Oil

Your "electric air compressor motor" is an electric motor. Obviously, you don't put oil in that. The oil goes in the v-shaped thing.

The Harbor Freight oil is probably fine but, if it were me, I'd prolly get a bottle of synthetic. It won't take much oil to fill it.

The air tool oil gets dribbled into the brass nipples on the air tools themselves. Before you hook the air to it, just dribble some air tool oil into the air connection on the tool.

I am doing a clutch in a pickup truck right now. Using my ol' small, Craftsman compressor which I got used for cheap. It works great but only seems to go to about 80 psi. 125 psi would have worked MUCH better. I had to use a breaker bar on some fasteners that my air wrench would have loosened if my compressor were making 125 psi. I wouldn't hesitate to mod yours the way intakexhaust suggested. I'm considering looking to see if that mod can be done to mine. Compressors don't explode, BTW. 125 is not unsafe. It's just a matter of how much harder your motor and compressor mechanisms will have to work, and whether your air tools are sufficiently robust.

rnln 03-11-2012 11:23 AM

I used to use my brother Craftman one, oil less. it is lound. This one is oil feed with a belt driven = very quite. I got it of a garage sales for $50 bucks yehhaa. This is probably the only thing I scored from garage sales around here. I will do the intakeexhaust suggested too.


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