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Repairing Stainless Steel threads, or learning the hard way about Galling
I got this really nice polarware brew pot for Christmas. It is an awesome piece with a drain valve and it also accommodates a thermometer insert. I got the great idea to just check out how the valve attaches to the drain tube.
I neglected to read the little warning about placing four layers of Teflon tape on the threads firsts. Even though all I did was gently screw the valve on to the tube a couple of turns, the thing seized up. Major sigh. I did manage to work the two pieces apart and three of the threads are damaged. Is there any way to fix this without tossing the whole thing? I am not mechanically inclined, so I don't know where to start. |
Drill out and re-tap at a larger size.
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What part are the threads screwed up on? both?
We work with this stuff everyday and hate the galling problem with SS we started using plated steel nuts on anything stainless if you ever want to take it apart. |
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Attached is a picture of the pot with the valve attached. This might make it easier to see what I am working with. Thanks http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1325474623.jpg |
I'm sure the threads can be repaired. Run a tap through it or thread repair tool if it's the external threads that are jacked. Should be a piece of cake.
http://www.cheapbikeparts360.com/images/b/6405.jpg |
You should be able to run a die over it but its going to be a pipe thread which is good because its tapered and you should be able to cut it a bit deeper and clean it up nice.
If you want to fix it for future use get a brass ball valve. |
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....and apply anti-seize to the threads before assembly.
Sherwood |
Is this the size? What kind of a bung did they weld on? Does it look like a TIG weld? Does the weld look pretty?
1/4 In. -18NPT Hanson Pipe Taps-8203 at The Home Depot I smell a business venture. How expensive are we talking? |
I think teflon tape is the sanitary way to go. Once you clean these threads up, they should go together nicely. When working with new SS fasteners, it's a good idea to run a SS wire brush over the male threads to "polish" them. Most of the time you can't get into the female side, but running a thread chaser is a good idea. Not completely necessary though.
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Looking at the picture again.... How is that attached to the pot inside?
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The male threads don't look too bad. The female threads on the valve are in better shape. The valve costs about $20, so replacing it would not be the end of the world. |
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If you cant get the threads cleaned up enough to thread in in the valve, you could always weld another coupling to the threadolet that is already welded on the brew pot..kind of sucks to have to fix a new brew pot though
Here is a brew system I welded together a few years ago using some kegs I got from my friends bar.. http://www.riptidebrewery.com/rims1.jpg |
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Thanks to all of your for the great inputs. Here are some images of the thread damage: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1325547545.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1325547561.jpg |
Looks like it would be easily fixed with a die or thread file.
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Thread file to start and clean up with a die. After that use the SS wire brush to debur.
And it looks like you didn't suffer from the common galling, you may have cross threaded your valve to flatten the threads like that. As already mentioned, since it's a tapered thread, no harm has been done. It will seal perfectly once repaired. |
Those threads really don't look to bad, not damage from galling just like mentioned before..cross threaded...
I know what I would do... "what would Eddie do?" |
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