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Mig welder
My son just picked this up from his employer, $150. Pretty good deal?? Any pointers or books on how to use this thing.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1339160289.jpg |
Plug it in, turn on the gas and find some steel. ;)
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Nice score! Go pick up a spool of flux core wire. some steel scrap and practice, practice, practice!
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Youtube .... lots of amatuer videos that are free for how to mig and tig weld. When in doubt Google is your friend. The best thing you can do it watch and then go out and see what you feel is right. Comes down to feel and sounds of the weld. Good luck.
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that's a great deal
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Take a night school course. A couple of three hour sessions and you will be reasonably good.
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Spend some time on weldingtipsandtricks.com and if you don't have the manual, get one. You need to determine the size of the liner and the tip before just loading up some wire.
For some 3/16ths steel set the wire speed to around 160-180 and the current in the middle using .035 solid wire (needs gas). Hold the torch close and about straight in. Move it around in little circles or any little pattern you like. They all produce slightly different effects. It doesn't really mean much if you push or pull the puddle by leaning the torch angle. Either way, keep it almost 90 degrees. Look at the back side for plenty of heat color change, that will be in indicator of your penetration. 150 bucks? Why don't I ever see a deal like that? It's way over a grand new. |
Welding is just dragging a puddle back and forth in an arc usually.
1). If it's melting a hole: turn down the amps, speed up, angle it back into the puddle, or do a series of connected spots. 2). If it's not penetrating, do the opposite. Slow down in the corners to let the heat penetrate and when dragging on thicker material. 3). If there is a ridge, grid it off(optimal) or crank it up and angle the wire deep into the crack to melt everything together. Always where the best helmet. |
Less stick-out=more penetration.
Point the wire back into the puddle to reduce penetration, away from the puddle to increase it. Use CO2 for penetration, M5 for appearance. |
I have the same machine (or maybe mine is a 250)
For $150, he stole it; IIRC those run around $2000 |
And never, ever, ever squirt copious amounts of 3M Internal Panel Coating inside your frame rails before welding in torque tube reinforcements all the while thinking you're saving yourself from drilling access holes later.
Your garage, kitchen and dogs will thank you for avoiding the smoke damage. edit: I would guess $1600+ new. Think my 180C was somewhere just over $1k six years ago. |
I'll give you 300 for it! :)
Nice score. I don't know if it is still the same model, but the 230V big Lincoln MIG is well over $2k at my local welding shop. |
Thanks for the input. I'm looking forward to playing with this.
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When I went to welding school, I had a bit of time with every process but TIG. I had no idea what to expect. The instructor had this Saturday lab class where all processes were done. He didn't have time to line me out with so many students doing all the processes, so I went in blind and lit up. He got over to me after a couple hours. But in those 2 hours I learned enough to understand what he was saying once we sat down.
If I can do that, you can light that MIG candle and burn some wire. If it don't look right, move a dial. Listen for the sizzle. |
You can download the manual online.
Like the others said, watch some youtube videos then just start playing. Adjusting your feed rate and amps until it feels comfortable... Also if there is a community college class that can be worth it. |
I taught myself to stick weld at age 12...... MIG welding is even easier figure out.
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-If it's rhythmically popping/burning back or humming, it's too hot. -If it's randomly popping, there isn't good ground or it's unclean. Slag cover should be an even line, which chips off. Slag is a product of flux, and protects the new connection made same as gas. |
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Great deal... Shame its not a miller though... ;)
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