Floor leveler options...
 

Any options for leveling a floor for tile and carpet? Say 1/2" in 4'?

It's not first my choice to fix the problem, but I've been over ruled.

I've used this type stuff under tile. Works pretty well. Sorry about the ad.

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Go to a flooring supply. Not Home Depot. Many good products on the market. Follow the instructions on mixing then pour it out. You may have to work it a little but it dries hard and flat.

Sorry, but Home Depot sells the best and easiest floor leveling compound I have ever used.
I have literally used 100's of bags of this stuff over the last 20 years.

If you have issues with a store, buy it at a tile distribution center. ( Dal-Tile, Bedrosians, etc. )

Level Quik by Custom building Products. $30 a 50# bag.

This product has made impossible jobs, turn out great.

I'm here if you have questions.

1/2" in 4' is alot.

Why is it so bad? Sometimes people assume settling, and it's more severe like a split joist or joists set on masonry and starting to rot. If you can get to the joists below, I'd fix it at the source. If not, and the subfloor is exposed, consider removing subfloor and fixing the framing from above.

If it is a slab, masonry floor, I would just level it with a good compound. If it is wood framing, consider graduated rips of plywood and shims, so the leveling compound isn't so thick.

The leveling material I use is formulated to pour 1 inch at a time and as thick as you please over multiple pours.

I did one room where it took almost a pallet of material to level a 200 square foot floor.
Eliminated commercial floor drains over a concrete floor.

Make sure you use the primer prior to installation.

Thanks for the ideas.

It's a lot, but I have to roll with it.
It's a new house under construction.
Boss says it's ok. Not my license.
House is drywalled, trimmed and painted.
Installing tile now.

Ever go to Duffys? 50 lb bag for under 25$ Mapei. Everyone has their favorite.

I've used Mapei leveling compound and it was a bad experience.
It didn't fully set up overnight and caused me grief.

I asked my tile vendor about the Level Quick and they'd never heard of it. Then again, they had no idea how to level a floor with compound (neither do we it seems).

Sent them a link to it. We'll see what happens.

Bosses like yours give the rest of us a bad name. Not your license, but who is doing the post-closing punchlists? I've been doing this along time, it's better to find the problem and fix it. Could it be structural and continue to move?

IMHO the subcontractor that screwed up should fix it, or get a substantial backcharge, otherwise they will do it again.

Just stack up some cardboard, and nail some 1/4" luan over it. At least it will be easier to rip out.

levelQuick is great stuff. I am with Dad911, get after the issue and problem solved. Again, I understand its not your job, and following direction is sometimes the best way.

If its new construction, I suspect the framers lost their tape measures during lunch.

I have used Ardex K15 with great success

Am I understanding this right, your boss hired someone who didn't know what they were doing and screwed the floor up and he's telling someone else who doesn't know what their doing to figure a way to cover it up?

If this is over a slab leveling compound isn't a bad way to fix it, but if there is framing under the floor not fixing it right borders on criminal.

I use the leveling compound from HD as well, it is great stuff. I would glue and screw backer board down first, and use the primer on that. If I need to, I put a reference line or small nails in the wall to float up to. I feel more comfortable running leveling compound on the backer board if I am leveling out to a fairly thin edge on plywood. Guys will tile plywood, but I have never been comfortable with it. You need the float with the handle. Don't do this on your knees, unless it is a really small space.

This is the stuff we use to float over electric radiant grids, and you could make a pool table out of it. BTW, if there are any small holes or gaps at the edge of the wall, this stuff will run right out. Tape them all up. I like the Custom Building Products brand. Not fond of Quickcrete products at all.

You're wondering the same thing I was. What's the subfloor?

I personally do not ever install tile or stone on plywood. My preference is two layers of plywood + an uncoupling membrane like Ditra.

Ardex or Levelastic. Both are great.

Wrong!
I completely disagree with your assessment.

Floor leveling is another option that will outlast the life span of any owner.

Most floors are horribly out of level. I'm sure you already knew that. :rolleyes:


Your comment was out of line.
Why is adding more indestructible material to a floor over properly installed tile underlayment a "crime".

The OP said it is new construction and the floor is 1/2 inch out of level in 4'. If there is frame construction under the floor a responsible builder would find out why it is 1/2" out of level and correct the original problem, not patch it over.

I did a remodel where new interior walls were being built and did the two layers of plywood and Hardyboard. More recently I put tile in a bathroom where the doors and walls were already up. The subfloor is 3/4 plywood. I got under the floor and added 2x4s to the sides of the floor joists up against the bottom of the subfloor, effectively making them 4 7/8 wide and the gap between them 11 1/4 inches. I added screws into each 2x every 12 inches down from the top. Ditra had come out by then and I used it under the tile. I figured the test would come when I filled the bathtub. The result is outstanding.