tongue and groove for a ceiling in man cave
 

I am almost at a point to install a ceiling in my two car man cave. The garage is 24 x 26 with a white/black checker board vinyl tile floor. The walls are 4 x 8 wood panels painted semi-gloss white. I am thinking about installing tongue and groove pine planks for a ceiling. My rafters are 2 ' on center. Currently everything is open so a blank slate to work with. If I go tongue and groove I'm thinking about using 1/2 " thick by 5-6 " wide to help keep down the weight. I think I would spray on a urethane/varnish top coat before installation and keep the natural color ( no stain ). What type of air nailer/nails for a ceiling install ? And would you use any glue/construction adhesive ? I'm thinking on the end/butt joints to glue and nail precut pieces of 1/4 " plywood on the backside to keep them from moving or separating. Lighting will be conventional track lighting with LED flood lights.
So first off any concerns with this approach ? Other than conventional sheetrock what other choices are out there ? I know some have used corrugated metal but I think that would over power the space.

I did a plank ceiling in my living room and master br, I chose and Armstrong t&g system because I am often doing these installs solo..

Armstrong Ceiling Planks

The individual planks are fastened via stainless clips and screws, it goes up really easily

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1432904563.jpg

I think for a garage ceiling I would consider pickling (white stain) the boards. It highlights the wood grain like stain, but would be more reflective and brighter.

I would use a pneumatic finish nailer.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1432906672.jpg
This is my ship lap pine ceiling in my house. Sprayed with a lacquer. No stain since the pine darkens slightly as it ages.

I went onto the Garage Journal website and some guys are using aluminum/metal/vinyl soffit material. I have to admit I like the look of that in white. Much lighter in weight and never have to paint. Might have to consider this. Keep the ideas coming.

What is above the garage?
If it is "attic" or truss space, it might be good to give it some strength by installing 1/2 ply, that way, if someone steps on it won't break the paneling.
Another thought would be to insulate the space either for heat retention/rejection and or noise. It definitely moderates the garage interior temperature.
Run lighting wires now, ditto air lines or auxiliary circuits/outlets.
The illustrated bead board paneling goes up quickly and also needs a bit of strength behind it if you want to even think about storing stuff above.
A pneumatic finish nailer would be the tool of choice and you might consider a simple 1x2 or crown molding to hide any gaps around the ceiling/wall perimeter.
Prefinishing will save your shoulders and back a lot of grief.

good luck,
chris

We completed a fairly extensive addition and remodel last year. Porches were redone with pine boards. Light stain and satin varnish. Sunroom is beadboard panels that have been pickled. Pickling was a messy job. The guys drew straws to see who had to do that job. -J



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1432922349.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1432922426.jpg

rfuerst911sc,
I got my idea from the garagejournal also but it was your original tongue and groove with urethane varnish proposal. Luckily, there was a store not-to-far away that had some 3/4 " thick, 8" wide 16' long available for $0.59/ft. I did my entire bonus room/man cave for about $500. My space is 40' long by 10' wide. Just the final, final trim work remains on the gable ends. We still need to install proper light and ceiling fans (mini-split already fully operational) yet my wife and I already spread a considerable amount of time in that space. We used my Harbor Freight 18 gauge nailer with, I think, 1-1/2" brads. That nailer was probably one of the best 'less than $20 purchases' I have ever made. I have shot thousands of brads with a total of two jams. Our attic trusses are like yours with 24" spacing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1432921580.jpg

We cut 45 angles on the ends of the joints. My neighbor did a strict butt joint and I think that the joint we used looks much cleaner and better.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1432922810.jpg

The space above the ceiling will just be for insulation, at its highest point near the peak it's only about 3 ' tall. I have already run all electrical and air lines. Mini split is installed and running works very well even with a wide open ceiling. I will load up the ceiling with blown in fiberglass insulation after reflective foil is installed on the bottom of the roof deck portion of the trusses. Just need to figure out the ceiling material.

If you do end up using the 3/4 t&g cut your longer boards into smaller lengths 3-6 ft (especially if by yourself).Take a router with similiar shape as the edge of the t&g and router the butt ends of the boards,this really looks nice.You don't even need to fall on a truss,let them run random.The T&G will give plenty of support.May sound like more work but it isn't it goes really fast.
Dave

i like the idea of a white metal soffit material.
clean, tidy, relatively easy. great light reflection.