Kitchen cabinet hinge question...
 

I'm at the parents house and they have a broken hinge on their Merillat cabs.

What style am I looking for from these pictures? It's a Grass brand hinge but I'm not sure the style. Is it a 1/2" type?

Pay no attention to my dads try at new hinges.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1441564746.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1441564885.jpg

Can you get a better view of the text under the name "Grass" in the hinge? I think that text should tell you everything you need to know about the hinge.

Is says the pat number and made in the USA.

It doesn't have to match as long as it functions the same.

How far across is the hole? In the bottom picture, how far is it from the face of the door to the part that's offset (top of the pic with single oblong hole)?

that's an old style face frame Grass hinge. You need to find out the overlay distance. That means how far does it hang over the face frame. A new plate will fix it. A $1.25 item. Must run with the kids but will try to get back to you later.

The hole is 35mm across.
The distance from the door to the inside of the offset is 3/4"

This.
I used to have an assortment of them and misc hinges, but I'm quite sure they're all gone by now. I bought them from wholesale suppliers, but I don't think they'll sell one or two. A better hardware store may.

It's a european hinge so it is 36mm standard, the overlay will be full, half or inset, this corresponds to the gable (side) of the cabinet. If you can't get a match you could replace all the hinges.
Grass is a quality hinge.

Salice makes a near identical cheapo replacement. Check with a cabinet hardware distributer / wholesaler. Online, they may not help you out but if you're physically near one, walk in with it.


http://www.saliceamerica.com/en/hinges/face-frame/automatic-closing/face-frame_en_0_1_13841_3230.html
Also you might get lucky and match something up from Home Depot or Menards.

It's definitely a plan B......but you can weld the thing back together with a 110v mig.

They are pot metal and burn through easy.
Low volts with the tap-tap sideways method is needed with a little grinding inbetween.
Make a ring of new metal and reinforce to the corners.

Swap that location for a hidden one which won't be seen.
Temporary fix to keep the door on.

European hinge for a face-frame cabinet. Any building supply, Ace Hardware, Lowes/Home Depot should have an equivalent.

http://smile.amazon.com/Blum-Compact-Frame-Blumotion-Overlay/dp/B009KJYQHK/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1441583702&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=euro+face+frame+hinge+grass

I've left the house and headed back home, so I'll have to order a pair and see if my brother or BIL can install it.

Good ideas everyone!

3/4" is full overlay. I should have a pair of Blum hinges and plates like that hanging around. Grass, Blum, they all fit since they are all 35MM cups. When I get back to the shop Tuesday afternoon, I can have a look. I will post here if I find them and send it to you. Its time to get them both change out.

It's a Grass #850-01.

Well, I ordered some from Amazon. I'll see how it goes.

Thanks for everyone's help!

OK. If they don't work out, I should have some that will work. Let me know.

Two years later, I'm ordering a new pair.

I'm surprised they only lasted 2 years.

Seriously? They6 should last a long time. Try adjusting them so there's no additional pressure. I wouldn't know how to type this out without physically showing you but I will try. Did it break at the plate again? Ssee that screw that allows the hinge to move back and forth? Make sure that the door is aligned because if they are not, there's a bit of pressure when you go and close and open the door. Just picture your door hinge in your 911. If one isn't aligned and the door closes, it bangs against the body of the car. If that's done time and time again, the hinge is going to snap or wear out much sooner. That screw not only hold the hinge to the plate, it allows adjustment.

The hinges go on a lazy susan hinged door, so there might be extra stress on them. I’ll try what you suggest this time, as we just stuck them in place last time.

Based upon what you are using it for I doubt you can switch to a "heavy duty" version without changing it to a version that mounts on the inside of the cabinet rather than to the face. https://www.houzz.com/product/105515676-blum-70t6550tl-screw-on-free-swing-hinge-contemporary-hinges?m_refid=PLA_HZ_105515676&device=c&nw=g&gcli d=Cj0KCQiAtJbTBRDkARIsAI

I'd stick to blum or mepla but changing to heavy may work better with this being a door with extra weight for the lazy susan

I am not sure if Mepla is still in business. I think Grass bought them out.

That big old honking Blum hinge is not a heavy duty hinge, its a 170 degree opening hinge. It need all that "stuff" in there to make that swing. they are somewhat difficult to adjust. Having more then three of those hinge is a btich to get them adjusted correctly. That can be used for his application, but only need to have a face frame plate. All those hinges are interchangeable. Its the base plates that make the difference.

"back in the day" Blum made hinges for heavy doors or doors extra wide that looked like a 170 but were beefy. Used to use them as part of the old school sliding door hardware for entertainment unit (remember that idea) pocket doors.
I was advising so based on having broken the full overlay ones because of weight

Oh yeah, pocket doors. I had my fair share of adjusting those damn things with the cables. I still have a pair sitting around somewhere. They weren't cheap. I thank goodness for flat screens so we no longer have request for big bulky entertainment systems to house or hide the huge TV behind those disappearing doors. Doors were a pain in the ass to adjust due to its weight. Often they were super wide and a full 1" thick rift White Oak. Stupid designers.

Drill another hole and pop a third hinge on.

Or just buy extra and keep them in a drawer.

Look 171......... Oh the cables!!! that shxt sucked! I did one in Philly once like 12th floor old building , massive TV with pocket doors and pull out for a two men and a boy weight TV with curved 1/2" glass shelves between the side of the box and a extended back non adjustable shelves dado'd into etc. Put the tv in the box, adjust the doors, then genius me pulls the pull out forward and the entire cabinet damn near topples over , a holy xxxt moment. Push back TV , get hammer drill out of truck and lag the top of the cabinet into the brick wall of the building. Whatever screws I put into drywall/hat channel ripped out.... Luckily my install partner was a "we might need this " guy and had tapcons and hammer drill loaded

Sounds like fun times. Worst thing about it is everything is finished and something is going to get damaged and cost you lots of $$$ unlike an unfinished building during the rough construction phase. You still do that type of stuff for a living?

For a living no.... I do teach both carpentry and finish carpentry at a local community college. My "real" job is now as a commercial building inspector and plans examiner. In 02,going through a divorce w/5yr old I wanted custody of, I needed to no longer travel and be at home if custody was even an option. Went to a local community college at night studying the ICC codes and started testing to be an inspector. Literally tested every single thing I could and became a Master Code Professional and got a job 4mins from my house.... and , although I miss the creative outlet of high end furniture/bars , I was able, as a dude, to get full custody from a woman ( in PA that's not easy to do). I've been building a few projects here and there (posted here building a chair for my kiddo a few years ago) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/948775-something-woodworking-junkies.html

New hinges are here. I’ll install them this weekend and see how it goes.