Hanging Drywall by yourself - tips ?
 

I am going to drywall my garage so it looks less crappy, bounces more light, and provide a nicer surface to hang poster/frames off.. Mostly re: the crappy look.

I've only ever done repairs and helped with mud, so I'm good there but never hanging a full room... No ceiling involved... Every "how-to" I see has you starting at the ceiling and working your way down... Any reason I cannot reverse that process ? I'm thinking if I'm by myself I can start on the bottom of the wall, once that sheet is screwed in, it can support the sheet above (resting on it) while I screw it in, which would make it easier as a one person job.

Am I missing a big trade secret no-no ? NOt going for superb inside the house finish here... Hiding pipes, and whatever hides between wood veneer...

Also, Bonus Q, one wall is already covered in old sheetrock (installed backwards! don't ask, no idea) which itself is covered by thin wood veneer (I told you my garage looked like crap). Is it acceptable to hang another layer of clean sheetrock over a layer of existing one, or not ? Thinking thinner drywall, 1/4 ? There's enough holes and gaps to see where the studs are but I'm guessing it might be too heavy even with longer screws and complicate the power sockets (now recessed)....

Rent a drywall hanger aka drywall lift. Actually, some are as cheap as $100 so it may be better to buy, use, then sell.

+1.

When hanging ceilings, I used to hold sheets up with my head and elbows while starting the first few nails/screws until I helped a friend who rented a lift.
Wow. If you're not experienced, it is a huge help to have each sheet stay where you want.

I have started at the floor and worked up as you suggest. Works fine. But-

If there is any chance of water intrusion at the floor level, start the sheets up high enough that they stay above the moisture. Usually a 1/4 or 1/2 inch is plenty. Just set the bottom sheet on a couple shims. Water can wick up into the sheetrock and get moldy. Mold, however, disappears with a squirt of bleach.

I have known people to do this. A lot of times apartments double up as a extra firebreak.
Have to extend the outlets, and switches. Most would people would not notice.

Yup would be fine. I'd use thinner drywall there just to minimize the amount you have extend outlets etc, but no reason to tear it all out really

Hire a neighbor's kid to help for a couple of hours. It will take you 1/8 of the time.

No ceilings, so stand the boards up, so there are no horizontal seams, only vertical seams. Easier to spackle without the butt seams on ends of board. Also, you aren't lifting/holding it up while trying to screw.

Use a flatbar with a small block of wood to 'wedge' sheetrock off of floor, and get ceiling tight.

Longer screws over existing sheetrock.

Another thought for doing the ceiling is to use the silver reflective (bubble wrap insulation). It's really easy to handle, pretty cheap to buy, and can be hung with an electric staper in a few hours, no horsing around heavy, awkward, and delicate drywall sheets.

I do concur on spacing the bottom of the drywall up 1/4" to keep the mold away, and setting your first 4'x8' drywall sheet horizontally, so the next can be supported by the first.

Cool, thanks ! I will start from the bottom then, I was planning on a 1/2" gap with shims at the bottom with baseboard to cover that... no water issues that way... then use the bottom sheets (laid horizontally but I just read above vertically??) as support for going up. My garage is pretty low and I'm not doing ceilings, so I'm not sure how much the lift would help/hinder (can't move the car lift, there's ramps on the floor, trying to limit project creep)..... I see they sell thinner 1/4" sheetrock - I will try to use that on the other wall that is done but fugly (and backwards, exposing the paper!), if I can just go over the existing (but straight) crap that would be a huge time saver ! Thanks for confirming it's OK to do !

Why aren't you doing the ceiling? Might as well go all the way.

Because it would be very claustrophobic (low ceilings), impractical as it would kill access to my attic, it would prevent using the ceiling beams as storage, and it sounds like a pain in the butt ;-) Trust me, just the walls would be an *incredible* improvement. Ogle the ugliness (walls, not the cars)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1457116373.jpg

As mentioned above, stand the sheets up - do not go through the trouble of installing horizontally.

Butt joints are very difficult for the novice taper. Standing sheets up gives you almost all factory beveled joints.

In commercial buildings drywall is typically installed vertically. In houses it is common to lay it down. Decisions are based on ceiling heights, wall lengths and wood studs vs metal studs.

In your case I would stand it up, assuming the studs are laid out properly. It is easier to add a stud here and there vs installing cut up sheets of drywall.

Also, I am a 5/8" guy. Heavier and a little more expensive but creates a stronger wall which may be nice in a tough environment like a garage.

Good points Randy, thanks ! I don't really "Get" the vertical vs. horizontal debate when it comes to the difference in taping, I probably will *after* the job ;-) 4x8s sheets probably means I can stand one sheet up and call it done height wise on 2 of the wallse - the other wall is the side with the backwards drywall all the way to the edge of the roof so it's taller but I'll use thinner rock there... I'd been reading about laying it horizontally so I Guess was complicating things. Thanks for the pointers !

Easier to hang, you are never 'lifting' a sheet. Lean on wall, start a few screws, push it up tight and screw it in.

Easier to spackle bevel joints than butt joints, with a better finish: No raised but joints, and no joints 'touching' other joints, so you don't have to wait for anything to dry. Stick on mesh tape, fill in depression, light finish coat, sand/done.

There are youtube videos of tricks for taping/mudding. A damp sponge will work wonders on cutting down on sanding needed once you learn technique.

The debate isn't really about vertical or horizontal application. The professional drywaller is more interested in reducing the amount of taping, filling, and sanding required, this is where most of the labor is incurred. In most cases when you have a wall with lots of doors and windows installing drywall horizontally is more prudent ie. the lineal footage of taping is greatly reduced.
The other factor is the ease of taping, filling and sanding the horizontal joint at relatively waist to chest height compared to bending and reaching for a vertical joint.

I presume you are young and strong?
Drywalling is my least favorite job... I will do electrical and plumbing (close second to least favorite job) I even moved a truck load of gravel last weekend with the help of a neighbor kid (almost killed myself trying to do it alone).

Now that I have been all negative, +1 on getting some cheap labor to help and the lift thing.

If it is going in the garage and most of it will be covered by posters I would not even bother sanding the mud... but that is just me.

And use a proper trowel with good quality mud.

Paper is easy to use if you watch the videos.

Please post pics when you are done, i have been thinking about this exact same project. Your walls look exactly like mine.

I will do almost anything, on the roof, electrical. But I learned several times the hard way that drywall is work for an artist. Sure anyone can cover the walls but a pro is fast and good and worth every penny.
My advice is to get the materials, carry it to where it needs to be and pay the guy in cash and he will finish a perfect job in 1/3 the time.

food for thought. send pictures when you're done.
Bad Drywall Jobs | Drywall Nation

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...phone_call.gif