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-   -   Who know flat fender jeeps. older, late 40s. Help (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=906327)

look 171 03-16-2016 12:04 AM

Who know flat fender jeeps. older, late 40s. Help
 
The old man on the other side of the hill has been monkeying with this thing for 15-20 years. I took a walk after lunch today and he offer to sell it to me because he's going to a senior home with his wife. Very sad. Now I have a bug up my ass and really want this thing. Problem is:

Its in pieces, he took it apart for a frame up restore
Has all parts for a SBC 350 with TH350.
No seats, not a big deal. All mechanical parts, both pumpkins re-geared for huge 35" tires has been gone through but the transmission.

Its a 1948 CJ 2A (B?). I really wish it was a Willys MB instead of the CJ. Hey, that's the way it goes.

I have no clue what or where to ask. I have been reading the entire day for info on these things. My head is spinning.

Anything I should look out for in terms of the Chevy motor ripping things apart?

My plan is to have smaller tires like 30 or 31" back on there and re-gear it back so I can drive it to the trail head. Hope I can get my kids involved in messing with it.

Must look for someone willing to put it together. If I do it, it will never run and I just don't have the time. I think I enjoy the drive much more then the build.

Anyone know if a modern 4 spd transmission can fit in there so it can driven on the hwy or hit 65 mph. I rather have a 5 spd stick shift box, but have not clue if it will even fit?

Must give him an answer by end of week. He wants a little over 4000 bucks for the whole thing.
Anyone know someone in socal that would take on a project like this?

Dean, I tried those guys at Jeeps-R-Us in Laguana. They gave me a rough estimate of 20K or more. :eek:

Arizona_928 03-16-2016 01:04 AM

sounds like a headache. How's the rust? 35's are not that big. I personally like 37's, however, i'm spoiled with my hmmwv. How assembled is it? What axles has he re-geared? dana 44's, dana 30's, dana 60's?
With a SBC you can run a NV4500 which is pretty much bulletproof for your application. However, that's a bit wild for a build.... with a th350 I would be curious as to how long it's been sitting "decades?", and is the engine a fresh rebuild? I would be curious to see what transfer case he has.

Aftermarket seats for the early jeeps are only around $100 each. If the body is mostly assembled, and just finishing, it's good deal just to assemble, and have fun with.

grendiers 03-16-2016 02:32 PM

Lots of info out there, Google is your friend. Here for example: The CJ2A Page Forums

The CJ 2A has a very narrow frame, it's weak, not a boxed frame; lifting Jeep and expecting to drive safely on highway with a 350, hmmm, not for me. I had a 1971 CJ5, with the stock 6-cylinder engine. Road like crap, stiff springs, short wheelbase, very rough. Sold it.

look 171 03-16-2016 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZ_porschekid (Post 9039315)
sounds like a headache. How's the rust? 35's are not that big. I personally like 37's, however, i'm spoiled with my hmmwv. How assembled is it? What axles has he re-geared? dana 44's, dana 30's, dana 60's?
With a SBC you can run a NV4500 which is pretty much bulletproof for your application. However, that's a bit wild for a build.... with a th350 I would be curious as to how long it's been sitting "decades?", and is the engine a fresh rebuild? I would be curious to see what transfer case he has.

Aftermarket seats for the early jeeps are only around $100 each. If the body is mostly assembled, and just finishing, it's good deal just to assemble, and have fun with.

He took the body apart to have it painted, and nothing is together. Doesn't seem to have too many pieces but I know its all there, dana 44 up front and 60 in back, not sure? Both are regeared. Motor was rebuilt about 10 years ago and has been sitting. I think it might be stock transfer case, not sure. That's not too had to find if a new one (aftermarket is fine) is needed. the Th350 is used from a friend of his. That's one of the reason for a newer 4 spd. He claims there's about 10-12 solid days of work to get it back together. I am not doing it, I don't have the time and don't know enough about drive line to get it to set up property. I am writing a check for this head ache to go away and enjoy later. Its needs wiring harness, but that cheap he claims.

look 171 03-16-2016 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grendiers (Post 9040159)
Lots of info out there, Google is your friend. Here for example: The CJ2A Page Forums

The CJ 2A has a very narrow frame, it's weak, not a boxed frame; lifting Jeep and expecting to drive safely on highway with a 350, hmmm, not for me. I had a 1971 CJ5, with the stock 6-cylinder engine. Road like crap, stiff springs, short wheelbase, very rough. Sold it.

I am now crossed eyed from reading on that form as well as on the computer about early Jeeps. I don't need speed out of this lil' Jeep, but need to be able to drive it on the fwy to get to the trails. 45mph isn't going to cut it.

scottmandue 03-16-2016 03:14 PM

I had a two friends with Land Cruisers... one bone stock but with all the 'extras' (CB, lights, winch, etc) we did a lot of off roading in Mojave in that thing and never got stuck (and we tried!), he even would go the hill climbs and out do the LC's with the SBC's.
My other friend has a LC with the SBC, at Pismo he kept getting stuck because of wheel spin.

All that to say how big of a deal would it be to switch it back to a 6? You could recoup some $$ by selling the SBC.

look 171 03-16-2016 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottmandue (Post 9040212)
I had a two friends with Land Cruisers... one bone stock but with all the 'extras' (CB, lights, winch, etc) we did a lot of off roading in Mojave in that thing and never got stuck (and we tried!), he even would go the hill climbs and out do the LC's with the SBC's.
My other friend has a LC with the SBC, at Pismo he kept getting stuck because of wheel spin.

All that to say how big of a deal would it be to switch it back to a 6? You could recoup some $$ by selling the SBC.

From what I understand, its geared pretty low for those big 35" tires, Scott. I hope the low range gears will prevent wheel spin.

I had two LC, but it was the bigger wagon, not the Jeep looking one. I tried to killed my first out in the desert for a couple of years. Finally I broke it. Had another after that and lost interest in playing out in the dirt. Work, grew up and all that boring crap got in the way.

With this little Jeep, I just want to run it on trails out in the local mts and desert with my kids. Not hard core stuff because breaking is no fun because I have to find someone to fix it. You know anyone that's knowledgeable to work on putting that Jeep together?

I rather have a V6 to tell you the truth. I don't need V8 power. A small 4 banger diesel would be even better, but it will sound funny in it.

rturbo 930 03-16-2016 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171 (Post 9040202)
He took the body apart to have it painted, and nothing is together. Doesn't seem to have too many pieces but I know its all there, dana 44 up front and 60 in back, not sure?

Front is probably a Dana 25 or 27, rear is a 44, I believe with two piece 10 spline axles, not sure how strong the rear 44 is, but it's not the strongest. The front is weak from what I know, a Dana 30 from a later jeep is a decent upgrade for a relatively low powered jeep. If the front axle is stock, I'd be careful with tires as large as 35". I forget what the weak point is, might be the knuckles? But from what I've heard, they're not strong at all.

For the motor and trans, a Buick V6, and a 4 speed (granny first gear) is a pretty popular combo. Lots of info here on various transmissions, and they sell high quality adapters too. Novak Conversions Home

If you want a diesel, I believe there's a few VW TDI swaps out there. I've also seen a few older Benz diesels swapped in too, but those might be a little too long for an old flat fender. Kubota turbo diesels have been done as well, but I don't think it'd be powerful enough for highway usage. Might be worth checking out the Willys section of Pirate4x4 for ideas. Jeep - Willys - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

A modern 5 speed would be nice, but the thing is that the wheel base is so short, that you really need to think about how long your trans/transfercase package is going to be, or your driveshafts could end up being too short.

Regarding seats, since it was mentioned, the stock seats SUCK. Suspension seats of some kind would be a good idea. Or quite honestly, anything but the original seats. Speaking of, I don't know how tall you are, but older CJs are pretty limited on leg room. A lot of people cut a notch out of the rear wheel tubs to get the seats mounted a little farther back.

look 171 03-16-2016 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rturbo 930 (Post 9040281)
Front is probably a Dana 25 or 27, rear is a 44, I believe with two piece 10 spline axles, not sure how strong the rear 44 is, but it's not the strongest. The front is weak from what I know, a Dana 30 from a later jeep is a decent upgrade for a relatively low powered jeep. If the front axle is stock, I'd be careful with tires as large as 35". I forget what the weak point is, might be the knuckles? But from what I've heard, they're not strong at all.

For the motor and trans, a Buick V6, and a 4 speed (granny first gear) is a pretty popular combo. Lots of info here on various transmissions, and they sell high quality adapters too. Novak Conversions Home

If you want a diesel, I believe there's a few VW TDI swaps out there. I've also seen a few older Benz diesels swapped in too, but those might be a little too long for an old flat fender. Kubota turbo diesels have been done as well, but I don't think it'd be powerful enough for highway usage. Might be worth checking out the Willys section of Pirate4x4 for ideas. Jeep - Willys - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

A modern 5 speed would be nice, but the thing is that the wheel base is so short, that you really need to think about how long your trans/transfercase package is going to be, or your driveshafts could end up being too short.

Regarding seats, since it was mentioned, the stock seats SUCK. Suspension seats of some kind would be a good idea. Or quite honestly, anything but the original seats. Speaking of, I don't know how tall you are, but older CJs are pretty limited on leg room. A lot of people cut a notch out of the rear wheel tubs to get the seats mounted a little farther back.

Wow, great info, thanks.

I know the axles are not stock, that's for sure. He built this thing for off road use, and has no intention for on road use. I have to fine out more.

Thanks fo rthe link. Dang, more reading.

look 171 03-16-2016 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rturbo 930 (Post 9040281)
Front is probably a Dana 25 or 27, rear is a 44, I believe with two piece 10 spline axles, not sure how strong the rear 44 is, but it's not the strongest. The front is weak from what I know, a Dana 30 from a later jeep is a decent upgrade for a relatively low powered jeep. If the front axle is stock, I'd be careful with tires as large as 35". I forget what the weak point is, might be the knuckles? But from what I've heard, they're not strong at all.

For the motor and trans, a Buick V6, and a 4 speed (granny first gear) is a pretty popular combo. Lots of info here on various transmissions, and they sell high quality adapters too. Novak Conversions Home

If you want a diesel, I believe there's a few VW TDI swaps out there. I've also seen a few older Benz diesels swapped in too, but those might be a little too long for an old flat fender. Kubota turbo diesels have been done as well, but I don't think it'd be powerful enough for highway usage. Might be worth checking out the Willys section of Pirate4x4 for ideas. Jeep - Willys - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

A modern 5 speed would be nice, but the thing is that the wheel base is so short, that you really need to think about how long your trans/transfercase package is going to be, or your driveshafts could end up being too short.

Regarding seats, since it was mentioned, the stock seats SUCK. Suspension seats of some kind would be a good idea. Or quite honestly, anything but the original seats. Speaking of, I don't know how tall you are, but older CJs are pretty limited on leg room. A lot of people cut a notch out of the rear wheel tubs to get the seats mounted a little farther back.

Jsut clicked on the Novak link. Its for Jeeps only company. Thank you.

scottmandue 03-16-2016 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171 (Post 9040251)
A small 4 banger diesel would be even better, but it will sound funny in it.

Stop reading my mind!

Arizona_928 03-16-2016 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171 (Post 9040202)
He took the body apart to have it painted, and nothing is together. Doesn't seem to have too many pieces but I know its all there, dana 44 up front and 60 in back, not sure? Both are regeared. Motor was rebuilt about 10 years ago and has been sitting. I think it might be stock transfer case, not sure. That's not too had to find if a new one (aftermarket is fine) is needed. the Th350 is used from a friend of his. That's one of the reason for a newer 4 spd. He claims there's about 10-12 solid days of work to get it back together. I am not doing it, I don't have the time and don't know enough about drive line to get it to set up property. I am writing a check for this head ache to go away and enjoy later. Its needs wiring harness, but that cheap he claims.

I do not think it's worth it if you'll be paying to have it built, especially since you expressed the desire to want a Willy's and not a CJ2. :rolleyes: Would hate to see you do it all over again when you find a Willy's... However, if you do go for it, you'll probably keep that drivetrain if you do find a Willy's...

I would agree with selling the SBC, and going a different engine route. Especially with all the different trans/transfer case options, as well as ease of running that straight 6, the possibility for fuel injection as well. I would see what transfer case you have first before deciding on a transmission, or see what you can find local in terms of married 4 speeds. "twin sticks are more fun" ;)

VincentVega 03-16-2016 08:33 PM

x2

Main reason for such a rig is if you love the thing and/or want to work on it. If farming out most of the work I bet you'll be ahead buying one ready to go. Or, offer to pay the guy to build it, is he up to it?

Arizona_928 03-16-2016 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VincentVega (Post 9040642)
offer to pay the guy to build it, is he up to it?

Depends if he has 12 days before he goes to the retirement home? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...ys/elklaff.gif
Couldn't resist.

look 171 03-16-2016 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VincentVega (Post 9040642)
x2

Main reason for such a rig is if you love the thing and/or want to work on it. If farming out most of the work I bet you'll be ahead buying one ready to go. Or, offer to pay the guy to build it, is he up to it?

No, he's going to live in a senior home with his wife, and there's no garage there. He's letting everything go. SElling the house to pay for the senior living. I wish I can pay him to finish, because he seems to be a meticulous old guy. Buy one already done is ok, but if I spec it out, then I know exactly what I have at the end.

I much rather have a MB just because it was once a military vehicle for the cool factor.

rfuerst911sc 03-17-2016 03:59 PM

My family went through a Jeep phase at one point my dad, brother and I all had older CJ's. You will not find an easier vehicle to work on. Wiring harness is what 10 wires ? :D In my opinion the perfect engine for that setup is a V6 gas or 4 cylinder diesel. With the gearing in that beast plus low range you would be able to climb a wall ! Short wheelbase is great for off road but twitchy on the highway. If you are interested in the Jeep but not the engine/trans offer him 2,000.00 and see what he says. Have fun.

look 171 03-17-2016 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc (Post 9041688)
My family went through a Jeep phase at one point my dad, brother and I all had older CJ's. You will not find an easier vehicle to work on. Wiring harness is what 10 wires ? :D In my opinion the perfect engine for that setup is a V6 gas or 4 cylinder diesel. With the gearing in that beast plus low range you would be able to climb a wall ! Short wheelbase is great for off road but twitchy on the highway. If you are interested in the Jeep but not the engine/trans offer him 2,000.00 and see what he says. Have fun.

10 wires? That's great and its about how high I can count. I wouldn't screw that up then. I can't do that to him, offer him 2k. Even if I decided to not use the V8, I will still pay him what he wants. its the thing to do. He's a pretty cool funky old dude. I know they are super simple, but I have no experience with it especially the drive line. I had a YJ, four banger when they first came out. Its drives ok on the hwy. I am ok with that if it drives similar at speed. Just need to get to the trails but for us here in Lala land, it will take some driving on the hwy.

Arizona_928 03-17-2016 09:07 PM

Post pictures when you pick it up! we're here to help

look 171 03-17-2016 09:26 PM

I had a chit chat with him yesterday just to see how he holding up about selling his long time home. The Jeep came up again during our conversation. I told him that kind of Jeep I would like, so he phone a friend of his and his friend sent me this and wanted 6k for it. What do you guys think?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458275025.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458275046.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458275059.jpg

According to the owner, its a driver, its not restored but most items on there its original. He's got a V6 ready to be installed in it. He has three of them. All are in similar conditions. Nuts.

look 171 03-17-2016 09:27 PM

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458275257.jpg

GWN7 03-17-2016 11:24 PM

Check the frame on anyone of those you look at. The military used to cut them in half and sold them as scrap. Guys would buy them and weld them back together and resell them.

look 171 03-17-2016 11:27 PM

Did know that. Good info, thanks

If there are any more info, anything at all, please tell as I know nothing about these Jeeps.

jyl 03-17-2016 11:31 PM

Seems like a uncomfortable and dangerous thing to drive the 50 or 200 miles to get to the boonies, then probably more effective than you need on the trail, until that 70 year old thing breaks down fifteen miles from nowhere, as 70 year old things tend to do.

look 171 03-17-2016 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jyl (Post 9042167)
Seems like a uncomfortable and dangerous thing to drive the 50 or 200 miles to get to the boonies, then probably more effective than you need on the trail, until that 70 year old thing breaks down fifteen miles from nowhere, as 70 year old things tend to do.

I thought about that too, so I need to make it as reliable as possible. Too old for adventures especially if my kids are with me. 30-40 miles of fwy will get me to dirt, no way I am driving that thing for 200 miles. New seats with real seat belts are going on there.

rturbo 930 03-18-2016 12:06 AM

I think you should test drive it and see how you like it. Old Jeeps can be a great platform for an offroader, but I'm a little hesitant to encourage you to buy one, reason being, they suck to drive when they're bone stock, and you've stated that you don't have the time to work on it. If you're okay with farming the labor out, that's different, but they really need a few things to be what I would consider 'acceptable'. Mind you, I've only driven one Jeep, and it's my very worn out '53 CJ3B from New Jersey (read: lots of rust).

So here's a short list of what I what I would want done (not including more power and better seats):

1) Saginaw Steering conversion. Common upgrade, which you can read about here to get an idea of what's involved: Saginaw Steering Conversion on CJ3B.info
Why? The stock Ross style steering system is awful. It's not powered of course, and overall it's just a bad design. I haven't done this just yet but I am really looking forward to it. I think even a non-powered Saginaw conversion would be a massive upgrade.

2) Springs. The originals just don't ride very well, or at least mine don't (worn out, and bad shocks). There are lots of solutions here, anywhere from fairly simple to pretty complicated. To keep it as simple as possible, I think a set of aftermarket springs made for a flat fender would be the best solution. Be aware that the front and rear springs are different lengths.

3) Stock caster is about 3 degrees, and at highway speeds you're probably going to want more. Not sure what the best way to fix this is, I'm planning on an axle swap so I haven't looked into it.

Optional: 12 volt conversion. A brake upgrade wouldn't be a bad idea either, but that's your call.

Just trying to make sure you know what you're getting into. As I see it, it's going to be a project pretty much no matter what. If you'd rather just drive it, a newer Jeep like a TJ might be better. Again, I really think you need to test drive it and see what you think.

look 171 03-18-2016 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rturbo 930 (Post 9042178)
I think you should test drive it and see how you like it. Old Jeeps can be a great platform for an offroader, but I'm a little hesitant to encourage you to buy one, reason being, they suck to drive when they're bone stock, and you've stated that you don't have the time to work on it. If you're okay with farming the labor out, that's different, but they really need a few things to be what I would consider 'acceptable'. Mind you, I've only driven one Jeep, and it's my very worn out '53 CJ3B from New Jersey (read: lots of rust).

So here's a short list of what I what I would want done (not including more power and better seats):

1) Saginaw Steering conversion. Common upgrade, which you can read about here to get an idea of what's involved: Saginaw Steering Conversion on CJ3B.info
Why? The stock Ross style steering system is awful. It's not powered of course, and overall it's just a bad design. I haven't done this just yet but I am really looking forward to it. I think even a non-powered Saginaw conversion would be a massive upgrade.

2) Springs. The originals just don't ride very well, or at least mine don't (worn out, and bad shocks). There are lots of solutions here, anywhere from fairly simple to pretty complicated. To keep it as simple as possible, I think a set of aftermarket springs made for a flat fender would be the best solution. Be aware that the front and rear springs are different lengths.

3) Stock caster is about 3 degrees, and at highway speeds you're probably going to want more. Not sure what the best way to fix this is, I'm planning on an axle swap so I haven't looked into it.

Optional: 12 volt conversion. A brake upgrade wouldn't be a bad idea either, but that's your call.

Just trying to make sure you know what you're getting into. As I see it, it's going to be a project pretty much no matter what. If you'd rather just drive it, a newer Jeep like a TJ might be better. Again, I really think you need to test drive it and see what you think.


This is another toy to play with and hoping to get my kids involve and change things or upgrade if they get into it. I have not driven an old one like it, but did have a YJ and I am not sure if its a fair comparison? Brakes and suspension are the first to get checked out. I am still thinking about the hot rod in pieces, all goodies are on done. I am not sure what's in the one in the pic. I only had those photos from him. I think it's stock. Maybe something to drive to market for milk? Thanks for tips on the steering.


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