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Maximize the amount of time your foot spends BETWEEN the gas and the brake.
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A couple observations, from a more technical point of view.
It doesn't make much difference for the average driver. The rate of pad wear, relative to the amount of work being done, doesn't really vary much until you get to much higher temperatures than you're going to see in a normal stop. Lighter braking saves a little wear, because: Some of the braking comes from aerodynamic drag. As this rises with the square of the speed, you get more drag when you first start slowing down, so let that take care of the initial speed reduction. Add more brakes as you go slower, since the drag will drop fairly rapidly with the drop in speed. I could make similar comments with respect to engine/driveline drag. JR |
KNS has a great suggestion.
I learned the hard way. Wife's Q7 (we bought new) has always been a pain to keep the wheels clean. Organic pads - and was always dirty. Only went 35,000 miles or so - and needed all new pads and rotors. My opinion is that a modern vehicle should go 2x that before pads. Replaced them with (ATE, if I remember correct) rotors and ceramic pads. Lots less dust than the OEM, and I am hoping for better life. By the way - would have much rather changed the pads when new than need to do the full deal this soon. Getting rear calipers off was a pain, due to type of screw (16 point) and location / torque required. ***New parts came from Pelican, by the way. |
Some cars eat brakes, some don't.
My furd f150 has 93k on the original pads. The fronts are just about due, the backs are good for anuther year or two. A long time ago the wife had a plymouth voyager. POS went through front pads and rotors every 15k miles. Evidently they used the same undersized crappy brakes from the neon on the voyager. there's an empty jail cell waitin for the idjut who came up with that idea. The day we traded it in I made a note to self, never ever buy another Chrysler product. No matter what. I haven't and I won't. |
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If it's a 4 door, convert the rear doors to suicide doors and have them open when you want to slow down. Then just a tap on the brakes and they should close.
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In my truck, I went 3-4 years typically on a set of brakes. Lots of driving around town and being able to anticipate stops well in advance. I usually put no more than 20 miles on the vehicle per day. I probably had to panic-brake no more than once a year.
The year I lived in Atlanta I went through a set of brakes in just that year. Stop-and-go driving to and from work, 50 miles in a day. I had to panic-brake at least once per day. |
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Break pad wear is right up there with worrying about zombies or invasion of space aliens for me.
I can order new OEM Mr. Goodwrench - AC Delco pad for my El Camino for $13 for the fronts delivered to my house. It is a 15 minute swap and done. The 911 pads cost more but even with an occasional track day and regular autocross events the pads last many years. |
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It really works, I saw it on TV. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1508785247.jpg |
Properly breaking-in brake pads is the single biggest factor for life and effectiveness of the pads.
For street cars as well as race applications. Lots of videos and googles for the subject. |
If you are mechanically inclined install a higher rear biased brake proportioning valve. Not equal bias to keep the emergency stops safe, but a little more than stock.
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Honestly the best thing I have found to save my brakes is catch a ride with a friend in their car. Seems to help me save gas too! :D
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Plan ahead... If you are looking ahead, you'll notice the ebbs and flows of traffic and can plan accordingly.. leave space around your car.. brake less... fwiw, on my DD, After 12 years and 210K miles I finally replaced the original front pads and rotors.. and there was still a backing plates worth of pad left.. I just knew they were glazed over and the rotors were not in good shape..
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