Metal fabrication advice - Page 2

DanielDudley · 10-04-2018, 05:35 PM

When I was a kid, there were foundry s that would sand cast things like that when they were casting batches of other products. Brass or bronze would be used, and in those days it wasn't expensive. My grandfather had a set of oarlocks cast for less than 10 dollars in the early 70s. Those guys could just knock it out.

I had a part of a 200 year old lock set cast about 10 years ago, It was finely finished and cost about 150 dollars. The guy was a real artist. You just need someone who can sand cast.

Arizona_928 · 10-04-2018, 10:53 PM

Jb weld.... Tig it. Good welder can build up material then x y z axis mill the finished product.

The sand casting is cool. I would go that route.
Might be tempted to DIY....

drcoastline · 10-07-2018, 08:50 AM

Again guys I am not opposed to any of the manufacturing scenarios so long as metal. Not so sure I want any type of plastic. If I did go plastic I can get complete off the shelf units for about $50.00 a piece. There are some off the shelf units in stainless that we could make work in the $600.00 neighborhood. I am trying to keep as much original as possible and since the housing that is actually mounted in the hull is still in good condition I am hoping to only need to replace the opening window part. Again, I need two as they no longer exist but may replace them all if the price is right. Maybe Porchdog will come through with a viable option.

As of yet I haven't found a foundry to cast the parts. I am in contact with a company called New Found metals that may be able to help but there main guy is at the Annapolis boat show through next week. I am going to try and meet up with him at the show if I can. I am also talking to a small shop that may be able to CNC the part. If anyone knows of a small foundry or machine shop please let me know.

I have completely disassembled one porthole in order to see all surfaces and what the parts looks like. I'll post some photos and dimensions.

drcoastline · 10-07-2018, 08:59 AM

OH by the way notice the inner radiuses, it looks like they ground away the wall. I think this wall in a new part could be built back up to create more room for mounting screws.

drcoastline · 10-07-2018, 09:03 AM

vmax · 10-07-2018, 10:19 AM

https://www.amazon.com/Amarine-made-Rectangle-Portlight-Porthole-Replacement/dp/B00OHMWQXQ

red-beard · red-beard's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by red-beard

If you are going to have one milled from plate, there are shops that can use an imager to make an exact duplicate, except for finish.

Maker sure you use 5052 Aluminum, which is one of the most marine resistant alloys. 6061 plate is a bit stronger, and nearly as marine resistant. Either should work fine.

I forgot - 6063-T6 or 6005-T6 could be a good choices as well - They are marine grade. We build offshore helicopter landing pads out of 6061-T6

VincentVega · 10-07-2018, 10:53 AM

I talked to the guy from New Found Metals, was thinking of you. Really nice stuff, if $$. Atkins & Hoyle looks interesting too, although I just looked at their display, they were busy.

drcoastline · 10-07-2018, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VincentVega

I talked to the guy from New Found Metals, was thinking of you. Really nice stuff, if $$. Atkins & Hoyle looks interesting too, although I just looked at their display, they were busy.

Hey VV,

Thanks. I think his name is Richard. I'm not holding out much hope but I'll talk to the guy. One of their competitors quoted me $1,600.00 per porthole. That was an entire unit. They wouldn't even entertain making just the window portion. I think I'm going to need to find a MOM and pop foundry to cast these or give it a try myself. This is a pretty simple part so I don't think it will be to hard to cast. But, by the time I buy everything to make the foundry, get set up, make a few mistakes, etc, etc. There re a few youtube channels with people casting parts I have reached out to. Hopefully one of those will say yes. I'm also going to stop by the CBMM in St. Mikes, IYRS in Newport, RI see if they can help or know someone.

Thanks for thinking of me DRC

Captain Ahab Jr · Captain Ahab Jr's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by drcoastline

Hey VV,

Thanks. I think his name is Richard. I'm not holding out much hope but I'll talk to the guy. One of their competitors quoted me $1,600.00 per porthole. That was an entire unit. They wouldn't even entertain making just the window portion. I think I'm going to need to find a MOM and pop foundry to cast these or give it a try myself. This is a pretty simple part so I don't think it will be to hard to cast. But, by the time I buy everything to make the foundry, get set up, make a few mistakes, etc, etc. There re a few youtube channels with people casting parts I have reached out to. Hopefully one of those will say yes. I'm also going to stop by the CBMM in St. Mikes, IYRS in Newport, RI see if they can help or know someone.

Thanks for thinking of me DRC

I would say casting is the way to go, it will look and feel right compared to your original.

Forget 3D printing it's too large and cost too much

To save money and if you are handy doing woodwork, why not make the pattern so, it's a simple shape so shouldn't be too hard to make.

The foundry only has to pour and machine, I'm sure a small local foundry would offer you advice so you could make your own pattern.

VincentVega · 10-07-2018, 01:48 PM

New Found is $590 for 8x18, bronze or stainless. He gave me the rundown and it sounded like he can do just about anything. FWIW, I handled one of their units and its solid and very nice. Lots of little details impressed me.

I think its worth reaching out to atkins and hoyle, they talked up their repair business. I'm not sure how deep they go, maybe they have a contact? Have you talked with other trumpy guys? I wonder if you can get a batch together to lower your unit cost?

drcoastline · 10-08-2018, 06:37 AM

Ahab, I certainly could make a pattern. But a CNC router would be faster and more accurate. For that matter I am sure I could pour my own, but that would require acquiring and assembling everything that is needed and then the learning curve and mistakes. If I can get a few of these made for a few hundred bucks that's the way to go. I agree I don't see 3D as being a viable option. I am entreating CNC.

VV- the NFM units are my back up. Were Atkins and Hoyle at the show? If so I will locate them this weekend.

I haven't spoken to any Trumpy owners directly. The first problem is there are only six of my size Trumpy in existence. Under sixty feet. My boat is small for a Trumpy so most hardware is considerably larger than what I have. The next problem is Trumpy owners in general are very private. We don't have a club per se where you can get a persons name and contact info or even a forum I can ask questions. I have been in touch with Jim Moore's who is sort of the ring leader of our little circus. He has his ear out, reaching out to the owners and looking around. He did turn me on to the boat in the photos attached. This boat below burnt last Christmas eve. I went to see if I could salvage the windows before they cut her up. Unfortunately they were to big. I am fairly certain the windows were cast at Trumpy so I can't even look at other vintage lights and just use the door. I have also posted on the wooden boat forum hoping to get an answer over there.

Porchdog · 10-08-2018, 08:44 AM

I am working on a sketch for you - should be ready in a day or two. The dimensions in the photos above are a big help.

I think that cast is best if you can find a foundry who wants to do it. I haven't dealt with foundry's in a while but I might be able to get you some suggestions.

drcoastline · 10-08-2018, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Porchdog

I am working on a sketch for you - should be ready in a day or two. The dimensions in the photos above are a big help.

I think that cast is best if you can find a foundry who wants to do it. I haven't dealt with foundry's in a while but I might be able to get you some suggestions.

Thanks Mike,

I posted those because I thout they would help you. I did forget to include the dimension from the tip of the dog to the tip of the hinge. that is 10-3/4" If you know a foundry or someone with a CNC that would be great.

DRC

VincentVega · 10-08-2018, 10:42 AM

Quote:

VV- the NFM units are my back up. Were Atkins and Hoyle at the show? If so I will locate them this weekend.

Yes, they were in one of the tents. I assume/hope they are there for the stink pot show.

I didnt realize they were in such short supply, but I should have. As usual, cool info and thanks for sharing.

Porchdog · 10-08-2018, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drcoastline

Thanks Mike,

I posted those because I thout they would help you. I did forget to include the dimension from the tip of the dog to the tip of the hinge. that is 10-3/4" If you know a foundry or someone with a CNC that would be great.

DRC

I actually got pretty close to most of those dimensions by printing and scaling the photo.

We have CNC's here at work but you can likely get a local shop to do it for less once you have a drawing. (We build custom machines, we do very little contract machining. Our shop rate is high).

Castings are nice but they will need some finish machining - the groove for the seal, the glass surface, screw holes and hinge holes. Most foundries can take care of that so you don't have to deal with two shops.

The plate to retain the glass can be lasered out of aluminum sheet. I like to use stainless hardware with Aluminum.

We use Oakes in Youngstown for bronze castings, I don't think they do aluminum.

drcoastline · 12-09-2018, 09:00 AM

Out with the old, in with the new. I'll post a few photos here but will be more in epth over at:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/870616-gm-671n-marine-diesel.html

Old porthole frames

New Porthole frames