Paint chip repair: Langka solvent method vs David Bynon sanding method
 

Has anybody tried both of these methods? Which one do you prefer?

I've tried the Bynon method on my 1985 911 with mixed results; great flush repair but I sanded through the nearby original paint and it took a long time. So I'm thinking that maybe the Langka method is worth a try.

From my Bynon experience and what I've read about the Langka method, this is my assessment so far:

Langka solvent method
PROS: quick, won't damage original paint on new cars
CONS: may damage original paint on old cars

David Bynon sanding method (from Autopia.com)
PROS: safest for older cars
CONS: slow, can damage original paint by accidently sanding though it

anybody?

Rats!

LOLOL, sorry Oly, never heard of either one of those

Me neither, sorry, but if you are interested I can share how I do mine.

"Langka solvent method"

is crap and doesnt work !

I've only read about the Langka method but it sounded intriguing. Probably cause I too have mistakenly sanded away good paint. Even using sandpaper on top of a pencil eraser. I think the most valuable tool here is practice. I only try chip repair occasionally but I have gotten better. My perfectionist nature works against me too. Hope to hear more experiences. Ken

Thanks for the posts everybody!

Sorry for the slow response; for some reason I'm not getting the "Instant e-mail notification" option that I checked.

Axiom,

What is your method?

Sorry for the late response, I was out of town.

Touch up 102

The way I do it could be unfair for most people, since I have acces to all material needed to mix and spray paint, that's how I would recomend to be done.

Go to your local paint store suplies and have them mix the minimun amount of paint and and hardener, I would prefer the higher quality paint, mix a little in the appropiate ratio. this example would apply to solid color single stage.

With a good brush, I use pinstriping brushes Mac is the brand, they are a little pricy, but with good care they last a long time, getting creative with a back of a match, or a napkin rolled into a point, will only give you a half job, the brush is extemely useful to fill the chip or the scratch, let it dry for at least 24 hours.

Colorsanding is a different beast, it requieres practice, but there are companies that sell little tools and gadgets to ease that process.

With two stage paints, I would need clear, tint it with color about 50% and apply, this time it may need more coats to completely hide and fill.

I hope this help, In my head is cristal clear, but it is difficult to put into words. also visual aide would help. I will try to keep notes.

Thanks Axiom!