Cutting up '70 (T) coupe.......Advice (opinions? requested

Jim Williams · 07-30-2008, 06:59 PM

I bought into this roller hoping to get at least one good front fender, and maybe end up with a restorable project. Neither of these goals was met, but there were some decent interior parts I can sell and hope to at least recoup my dollar investment. No way to recoup anything for the time spent in labor, but anyone reading this knows how that goes....

What I started with:

and here's where it is today (after nearly 3 weeks):

Now down to the question... Everything (well, almost) that can be unbolted has been removed. Now we're down to cutting body. Some of the chassis qualifies as being useable to someone. Regarding the "almost" part... the torsion bar on the passenger side appears to be in good shape, from what I can see --- a sellable part. But, it has resisted being separated from the spring plate. Hammers, heat, hole drilled in the cap on the spring plate, punch, more heat, more hammer. No cigar.

The question: If I just decide to cut the rear quarter which is all that's in the way of removing the torsion bar and the (very) attached spring plate, what part of the rear quarter is most likely to be of use to someone? The flare area only? The complete rear quarter, and if this is the case, where to cut?

Thoughts? I have a sheet metal saw, a Sawzall, and a plasma cutter, so I just need opinions on where I should cut.

Jagshund · 07-30-2008, 07:08 PM

In my experience, the best way to cut the quarter off (with the intention of reuse) is to make a semi-straight vertical cut from the aft tip of the quarter window and rearward staying about 1" below the drip rail. Then get a spot weld removal tool from MAC or some other source and cut out the welds along the gutter (would be under decklid if the car had one) and the bottom of the quarter window. See photo and ignore green lines (I would send the original w/o the green but I'm too lazy to go upstairs and turn the other pc on). I used a plasma cutter on the lockpost in order to leave the quarter lip intact. Took about four or five hours total, would have been shorter had I not worn out up my spot-removal tips on the pans.

Jim Williams · 07-30-2008, 07:51 PM

Thanks for the input. The lock post on this side has some rust, so I wouldn't be loosing much by cutting at the lock post as you suggest. I'm sorta new at this body stuff, with the most of my experiences being in the engine rebuild arena. So I may post some more pics in an effort to make sure I have a clear understanding of where I need to make my cuts.

What are you using to make your straight cuts, a cut-off wheel?

Jagshund · 07-30-2008, 08:17 PM

Yeah, I used a zizz for the straight cuts. There was a tricky cut at the forward most point of the cut; I ended up just cutting through the quarter window frame flange (welded it back together) and making a cut towards the outer edge of the quarter. You'll know what I'm talking about when you start cutting.

kycarguy 935 · 07-30-2008, 08:41 PM

My second Porsche in 1988 was a 1970 911T with the same color green. Too bad this one was that bad.

Jagshund · 07-31-2008, 09:28 AM

From the pics (uh, the ones BEFORE the roof came off) the car doesn't seem to have too much corrosion - was there something critically wrong?

mackskibum · 11:00 AM

1968Cayman- not to hijack the thread, but what kind of tip are you using to cut spot welds with your plasma? Are you able to catch just one layer of metal?

Thanks

Dave

Jim Williams · 07-31-2008, 11:27 AM

Here is why I decided to part it out.........

I don't know what's behind the rivited panel, not sure I want to find out

Not much supporting the torsion bar tube on the left......

Or the right.....

Note the home made pad to keep the lift pad out of the cockpit.

Hole looking from the fuel pump area into the cockpit.

Hole from the inside to the outside. The rusted out hole extends on the inside from the front all the way into the rear footwell.

You can probably identify the areas shown. Below the level of the sill on either side, about all that didn't have a gaping hole in some part of the sheet metal was the area adjacent to the shift tunnel. I don't know how that part escaped the rust fairy, who also found her way into the A-arms leaving one rust-through.

Not shown are a few other holes.

I'm sure there are folks out there who would view this rust bucket as a challenge, but I already have a project going I'd rather be spending time on.

Jagshund · 07-31-2008, 06:15 PM

By all means, Jim, don't hold back on us; show us the bad parts, too. Seriously, though, it doesn't- didn't- look too far gone. I'm working on one right now that required replacing the entire lower 8" of the car. That's not to say that everyone has the space/patience/wife for such a long-term project, though . . .

I got a sweet little SW removal kit from Mac Tools. It has a hollow shaft with a spring-loaded punch that runs through a four-tipped bit. Set came with three heads and two punches; it generally doesn't go through two layers unless someone has added "extra security" to the panels along the way. I wish there were some way to run the bits through a Drill Doc but haven't found one yet. Set lasted through the entire floorpan, both quarters, all the rockers, rear latch panel and the seats/package shelf.

Jim Williams · 08-03-2008, 07:33 AM

At the left front of the tub

Left front fender support piece

Driver's side footwell

Behind left tail light housing

Under the previously mentioned riveted panel

Remember --- The acquisition of this roller was only on the pathway to getting a good driver's side fender with a decent headlight bucket rim that would actually accept and hold a trim ring; hopefully not a new road to travel to build another car from the ground up.

Jagshund · 08-03-2008, 01:49 PM

But building a car from the ground up is sooooo much more fun. Especially when you're molesting a SWB car; just wait 'til the purists get a whiff of my project . . . I'm expecting some poo to be thrown in my direction . . .

Matt Smith · 08-06-2008, 08:03 PM

I'm no body man but I'm sure that with some carefully placed rivets, some of that new epoxy glue stuff and some good quality bondo, you could freshen that shell up nicely.

The rest would just buff out.

flat4manbe · 08-07-2008, 02:07 PM

Hi,

I search a rear torsion bar tube (complete -> the whole lenght) for the restoration of my 1968. Can you please post some pictures of the tube (most of the time you'll have small holes and rust at the bottom) ?

Regards,

Fred from Belgium

Jim Williams · 08-07-2008, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flat4manbe

Hi,

I search a rear torsion bar tube (complete -> the whole lenght) for the restoration of my 1968. Can you please post some pictures of the tube (most of the time you'll have small holes and rust at the bottom) ?

Regards,

Fred from Belgium

Hello Fred,

So I can better understand your request, are you inquiring about possibly purchasing the torsion bar tube from this car, or are you just looking for photos of any torsion bar tube?

If the first, I would need some serious motivation to remove this one. I think removing a torsion bar tube would require a considerable amount of labor, and then I would be faced with an overseas shipment.

If the second, I already have some photos of the torsion bar tube on my '73 which I will be happy to provide a link to.

Jim Williams · 05:33 PM

Can anyone attest to the method and difficulty of removing a torsion bar tube (for re-use)? It appears that there are 3 sections of sheet metal (2 outside layers and an internal piece) that the torsion bar tube passes through on either side of the car.

Access appears to be limited for much of any kind of cutting if the whole length of the tube is to be removed in one piece. The Body section of the Porsche factory workshop manual has an illustration of cutting through the floor pan to access the area need for cutting and welding.

Torsion tube overall

(Hit Send too early..... see next post)

Jim Williams · 08-08-2008, 05:38 PM

Left end of tube

Right end of tube

What kind of problems am I getting into here to remove the tube?

Jagshund · 08-09-2008, 08:57 PM

I used a plasma cutter to slice it out with relative ease; made a circular cut along the perimeter of the tube, moved on towards the interior reinforcements where I did the same and it dropped right out. Or something like that; I think there was a bit of resistance due to the thicker stock and the relative lack of power in the Dra-Gun unit I was using.

Jim Williams · 08-12-2008, 08:07 AM

Removed the RR quarter according to 1968Cayman, and the Porsche Workshop manual. Turned out to be around a 3 hr job, having done it for the first time. Not being worried about replacement, I cut on the inside of the top flange of the quarter that is spot welded to the flange at the bottom of the quarter window.

The left quarter should be easier, being the second time around, and the fact that it was a replacement (maybe galvanized), and only had one rivet in the rain gutter under the engine lid holding it in place. It was never welded in this area.

I decided to go ahead with the second rear quarter, and maybe the torsion bar after if Fred from Belgium or anyone else has any interest. Otherwise it's off to the scrap yard with the rest. After the left quarter is off, I'll post a thread to the parts forum to inquire about any interest in the rear quarters or the torsion tube.

Jagshund · 08-12-2008, 05:25 PM

Looks oddly familiar . . . oh, yeah. Like mine. Except I've got pretty new sheet metal around the torsion tube holes . . . someone looking for a quarter will be happy you took your time.

Jim Williams · 10-14-2008, 06:10 AM

Update:

After the rear quarters were cut, the rest went to the scrap yard. I hated to do it, but I don't have room to keep a car (body) which will never move under it's own power....