Originally Posted by Matthew Barnes (Post 9792494)

I'm no expert but I have carried out these repairs on my own car.

I certainly learned what not to do, as well as figuring out a practical way to attack some of these issues.



Without photos of the rot it's difficult to give you detailed advice.

Posting some pictures here will help the people who really know share their knowledge.



To start I would suggest checking out Chris Neilsen's (sp?) posts on this forum repairing one of his earlier cars. He gives great write-ups and has lots of detailed pictures. He deals with a rather tricky repair of the rear window corners in one of the threads.



The other place to look is on DDK in their restoration thread. There is a master on the site that does a lot of the restoration work. Again, he takes lots of pictures and demonstrates how a 'pro' approaches repairs. Barry Carter is his name. But be warned, his work is amazing, so don't get discouraged by the quality of fit and finish. You don't need to be as good as he is to effect strong, sound repairs.



The first step is to clear away all the paint and get down to bare metal. There are different ways of doing this, each with their pros and cons. Getting to bare metal will give you good idea of how much solid steel you have to work with. Welding patches onto anything other than sound steel is a waste of time. This will also tell you how much patching or replacing you need to do. The general rule is to try and save as much original metal as possible.



Once you have established how much rot there is you can decide whether to cut away within a panel and fabricate a patch or use part of a new replacement panel (either OE or Dansk / Restoration Design)



The rear seats are not complicated to patch or drill out the spot-welds and replace.

The scale and spread of the rot will determine whether you need to cut and patch or drill and replace. Photos will help. This can be done in isolation of the rear parcel shelf. Depending on the model, the rear seat section can be removed without touching the parcel shelf pressing.



The rear floor is also not too difficult. A rotisserie or octagon is a huge help if the entire car is stripped. If not then the repair is a bit tricker as aside from patching holes, a proper repair involves drilling out the spot welds along the sill edges, the lower edge of the seat support panel and the transmission tunnel. To do this upside down is a form of torture. And welding upside down is a very simple and effective way of showering yourself with small lumps of molten metal (ask me how I know!)



The parcel shelf is a bit trickier as there are multiple pieces that come together to create the structural strength around the rear windscreen. You also need to ensure that the rear screen opening stays true. Depending on the integrity of the window frame corners, it may be best to replace the parcel shelf first. As long as the corners of the frame are solid, the frame will give you a datum to align the parcel shelf, the support and inner corners. Once the shelf is in and aligned, you can then attack the rear window corners.



All of these repairs can be done with a decent MIG, some good clamps, and a reasonable level of skill. I am living proof that with the right guidance and lots of patience you can do the the job yourself.



Good luck.

Originally Posted by DFW_IE (Post 9785648)

Hello

My 1967 912 has rust and needs the parcel shelf, rear seats, rockers and floor replaced -

For those that have performed rust repair on their early 911/912s - do you have a recommended sequence to perform these operations.

(For example
1- rear seats
2 parcel shelf
3- rear floor
Etc).


I understand that the answer might depend on personal preference however all input is appreciated.

I received a few responses when mistakenly posted this in the technical forum but was recommended to post here.

Thanks


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