Point conversion problems

Doglvr 2003 · 08-01-2018, 02:49 PM

I purchased a WVE ( NKG/NKT ) point conversion kit for my 1974 Porsche 911 2.7 with original CDI, mechanical F.I. and a new MSD Blasters 2 coil with a ballast resistor all which worked before the conversion attempt.
3 problems I’m having is the magnetic part is too high and wouldn’t let the rotor sit in the distributor key slot. I cut down the rotor so that with a rubber o-ring between the magnet and the rotor it seats the rotor key, has contact with the cap electrodes and NO play between rotor and magnet. Also there was no plate shim included in the kit, but I didn’t need it.
The 2nd issue is the wiring diagram enclosed doesn’t work. The original point set up had a white wire to the coil + side a black wire and ground wire to the – side and another white wire directly to the points.
I’ve tried the following combinations without success:
Original wht wire and WVE red to the + side, WVE Black wire and with and without the original blk and ground to the – side (per enclosed instructions)
Original wht points wire and WVE red to the + side, WVE Black wire and with and without the original blk and ground to the – side
Original wht wire to the + side, WRE wire directly to Original wht points wire and the WVE Black wire and with and without the original blk and ground to the – side
Original white points wire to the + side and the WRE red directly to the original white and the WVE Black wire and with and without the original blk and ground to the – side
The ballast resistor was not used in any of the above conversion attempts.
I’ve tried contacting NKG/NKT and WRE with no success.
I’d really like to get this to work, please advise

Trackrash · Trackrash's Garage

No experience with the WVE. But here is a wiring diagram for the 3 pin CDI. The only thing different is some cars have a brown pigtail ground at the 1 coil terminal.

Walter_Middie · Walter_Middie's Garage

Quote:

the magnetic part is too high and wouldn’t let the rotor sit in the distributor key slot.

Is the magnet all the way down? If it sits too high, the magnets won't line up with the sensor. On the Pertronix, I always have to file away the inside of the plastic sleeve that holds the magnets, so that it will seat all the way down on the distributor shaft.

Doglvr 2003 · 08-03-2018, 01:41 PM

Thank You both for your help.I wired it per the diagram and re-checked the magnet seating but it didn't work so either the part is defective or the rotor issue is causing the problem.( the part is actually a Petronix Ignitor 1 )

dicklague · dicklague's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doglvr 2003

Thank You both for your help.I wired it per the diagram and re-checked the magnet seating but it didn't work so either the part is defective or the rotor issue is causing the problem.( the part is actually a Petronix Ignitor 1 )

The Pertronix needs switched 12 VDC fed to the red wire. The black wire is usually "points" signal to the CDI. This power wire is missing in the wiring diagram shown.

dicklague · dicklague's Garage

This diagram shows the red wire supplying the voltage to the Pertronicx circuit.

Doglvr 2003 · 08-09-2018, 09:16 AM

Hi ! I’m back again with more problems. I put the points back in ( .016 go no go) , wired everything back to the original configuration but now I don’t get 12v to the points ( wire C ). I double checked continuity thru the harness on all 3 wires, also check that wire B has power thru the harness, all are good. Can I use a direct 12v source other than wire C ?

Doglvr 2003 · 08-09-2018, 09:17 AM

Hi ! I’m back again with more problems. I put the points back in ( .016 go no go) , wired everything back to the original configuration but now I don’t get 12v to the points ( wire C ). I double checked continuity thru the harness on all 3 wires, also check that wire B has power thru the harness, all are good. Can I use a direct 12v source other than wire C ?

Trackrash · Trackrash's Garage

Here is how my '71 was wired. Power, red wire, was connected from the main harness.

Doglvr 2003 · 08-09-2018, 01:09 PM

I'm getting 12v thru the harness on wire "B" to the CDI, I get no power back out on wire "A" ( coil + ) or 12v to wire "C" to points

Trackrash · Trackrash's Garage

With the motor running you would be getting at least 100 volts to the coil. I don't know how to measure that, since the coil is grounded. The coil should send out a spark if all is operating correctly.

The CDI will make a high pitched whining noise when powered.

The opening of the points will trigger the CDI to send an electrical pulse to the coil.

Walter_Middie · Walter_Middie's Garage

Quote:

I get no power back out on wire "A" ( coil + ) or 12v to wire "C" to points

You can't measure voltage at the coil. The CDI puts out a pulse that can be 400 V.

Are you getting ignition? Check with a timing light. Also do a search on the "telegraph test".

Doglvr 2003 · 08-09-2018, 03:06 PM

I did the telegraph test from the coil wire on the cap, no spark, Checked for spark / power at the points, open and closed, no power or spark. CDI whines Loudly more like a loud hum rough sounding with ignition on.

Doglvr 2003 · 08-09-2018, 03:59 PM

I read some other posts with CDI powering issues, 1 of them was caused by 1 of his wires was shorted out to the shielding. I read my "C" wire again and found that it was grounded. I found The "C" wire shield from wire "C" was spliced to the shield of the shield of wire "A", as soon as i separated the shields the ground on wire "C" fell off. Should wire "C" be grounded?

Doglvr 2003 · 08-09-2018, 04:03 PM

I forgot to mention the harness was disconnected from the CDI. and "C" wire disconnected from the points.

Trackrash · Trackrash's Garage

Here is the best picture of the harness and wiring I have. The shielding is not connected to the red, black or blue wires. It is bolted to the coil mount on one end and near the distributor and connected to the CDI housing with a push on connector on the other end.
Missing from the picture is the brown wire that grounds the 1 post on the coil.

T77911S · 08-10-2018, 02:55 AM

the ign system is very simple. use the diagram in post 2.

the points provide a ground to the CD. when the ground is removed the CD fires.
the wire to the points does not need to be a coaxial wire and if both ends are removed it should not be grounded. if it is a coaxial wire the 2 wires can be wired together.
the points gap is not critical, just verify it opens and closes.

there is no power to the coil or the points.

don't make this harder than it is. its 3 wires. one you have verified as good, 12v to CD
pin A to the +side of the coil. the other side has to grounded. verify ground from the coil back to the CD unit.
the points wire, again, the points provide a ground. with the points closed make sure there is ground back to the CD.
I removed my dist in my 77s, I cleaned all the contact surfaces starting at the points, thru the dist, even the dist body to the engine case to make sure the path was good.