1987 911, drivers headlight won't illuminate?

[timmy2]

Grey to 5 is for fog lamps. Probably should go to 7 to work with low beams the way your panel is currently wired.
Here are the supplementals for air, fogs, Windows etc.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/hr6dquonkwjp23a/AABjbboPo-4J2L9nBoC5tbh6a?dl=0

[timmy2]

Install a short wire from 6 to 7 (top) and see if both low beams come on.

Then maybe move the low and high beam wires back where they belong top and bottom?

If it is the fuse panel internal jumper, it’s likely time to replace the panel with an original style or update to ATO type.

[FrankM_]

Originally Posted by timmy2

Here, this may help....
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jxno8o6qae3roun/AADW1qBcRc53LoEG0TPbRwFva?dl=0

‘77 schematic

Its a 87 911 so use the 88 schema available here : http://911c1.de/porsche/Schaltplaene/plaene1-10_carrera_32.pdf

It will be much closer to what you actually have in your car !
The second page G1/G2 “Lichtschalter” is the light switch.

[timmy2]

‘77 stuff was for Ray, he jumped on this thread as well.

[timmy2]

To the OP and Frank,
Found this on impact bumpers site years ago.
Unzip it...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8fr1si546yufs43/911%20Stuff%20all%20years.zip?dl=0

[FrankM_]

Gracias !

[ryguy0492]

Happy to report, the new-used light switch worked like a charm. Swapped over my wires from the old switch one by one, both lows, highs and fogs working.

Only thing that isn't correct is my drivers turn indicator in the front will not blink. it is constant lit orange when the lights are on, but if i hit the left signal, it will double flash, but the front indicator will stay solid and not blink. Not the biggest issue

My real issue now is I can't seem to find a serious drain on the battery. Hooking an ampmeter to the negative battery terminal and the positive to the chassis, shows about 6v escaping. That's a huge amount. After driving the car for a while even, if i turn it off and right away try to restart, it won't crank even a little. Hooking up my jumper pack gives it a good boost and it starts right away. I tried pulling all the fuses and the relays but nothing made the number on the ampmeter go down

[FrankM_]

Looks like you have a wiring issue in your headlamp then ? I also had a confusing situation with the blinker like that (US car = M553 variant) as this blinker has a dual-filament lamp and also doubles as a 'side light' of sorts. So if your bulb isn't fitted exactly like it should, the second filament can make the blinker 'always on'. Or in my case it was some strange wiring the PO did in the headlight.
Since it is illegal to have a permanent orange light here (Belgium, Europe), I disconnected the 'sidelight' power feed in the headlights and spliced the blinker power feed so my sidelights don't come on, but act as a side blinker instead.
Check the '88 schema above and you will understand, the two X's in the blinker mean that the blinker light has 2 filaments.


On the drain, I guess you mean a 6 Amps drain with an AMP meter connected in series between BAT- and a ground point ? (Given battery ground strap is disconnected ?) If you just connect an Amp meter in parallel to the ground strap I am not sure what you are measuring.

On the potential 6amps power drain : if you say that you pulled ALL the fuses at the same time (also in the engine compartment - there are 3 fuses there ?) and it still pulls 6Amps - it can only be some of the unfused circuits.

With the diagram you can trace these unfused circuits from the battery on 'Blatt 6', coordinates F49.
From the + terminal :
- thick black wire to the starter, connected from there to the alternator (B+) and from there to some other circuits. (You can easily disconnect this wire from the + terminal and remeasure)
- double red wire (2x4 mm2) to terminal 30 of the key contact switch and from there single wire to terminal 30 of the light switch unfused
- 6 mm2 red wire to DME relay under the driver's seat powering the DME but also the injector circuit and the O2 sensor heater and the ICV, all unfused (through connection point 2 on the diagram).
These circuits are activated when the DME relay switches them on.
Fuel pump runs over fuse.
- From the light switch the interior lights are fed (black/blue wire) but are UNFUSED ! (real hazard) You should put in a 3A fuse locally (between terminal 58 of the light switch and the black/blue wires)

Check all these points (or disconnect their wires from the + terminal of the battery) to discover in which circuit the unfused load sits that draws 6A.