Removal of H4 head lights

[hughc]

I've purchased higher wattage H4 bulbs and I thought removal of the headlight would be relatively easy.
I understood that of the three screws on the chrome ring, only the bottom one needed to be removed to free up the headlight as the two other screws are for alignment.

Having said that, I've turned the bottom screw forever and it isn't coming out nor is the chrome ring getting loose.
Am I doing this correctly?

[shadowjack1]

More then likely it's stripped. I would guess. See if you can grab with loop on a string and unscrew while you pull on the string.

[hughc]

Originally Posted by shadowjack1

More then likely it's stripped. I would guess. See if you can grab with loop on a string and unscrew while you pull on the string.

You are correct. The nut in the headlight shell is stripped. For now I'll clean and reassemble with blue loctite until I can find a one size larger screw.
Thx

[josephvman]

I would suggest installing the headlight relay kit you can get from PP if you’re going to be running hotter bulbs. Lots of threads on this.

[hughc]

Originally Posted by josephvman

I would suggest installing the headlight relay kit you can get from PP if you’re going to be running hotter bulbs. Lots of threads on this.

I actually installed the relay kit last year in preparation for the high wattage bulbs..

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by hughc

You are correct. The nut in the headlight shell is stripped. For now I'll clean and reassemble with blue loctite until I can find a one size larger screw.
Thx

Just a tip. Had the same stripped thread problem, to fix, I found a small nut with the same thread at the hardware store and epoxied it to the rear of the "threaded tang"
that the screw attaches to. Has worked great for years!

EDIT: There is also a U shaped clip that has nut attached to it that can be slipped over the "threaded tang"
with the nut on the rear side of the "tang". I looked for that clip, but could not find one with the correct thread.
I'm sure one is available in metric thread but could not find it, so I did the epoxy the nut trick.
The comment below describes the reason I needed to use the original screw, as I have the add on
painted trim rings which use special screw mentioned!

[darrin]

Originally Posted by uwanna

Just a tip. Had the same stripped thread problem, to fix, I found a small nut with the same thread at the hardware store and epoxied it to the rear of the "threaded tang"
that the screw attaches to. Has worked great for years!

^^^ this, would avoid using a larger screw, especially if you have any plans to add painted trim rings in the future (as the trim ring requires a special screw that uses the same thread as the stripped headlight bucket tab

[josephvman]

These seem to be extremely easy to strip, probably because the screw doesn't really hit the tang straight-on. One of mine is stripped as well and as soon as I get it out of the paint shop I'll give the nut trick a try.

[patkeefe]

I think those are 4mm screws and nuts in the headlamp. I rebuilt mine and put in Allen head cap screws in. Either 4mm or 5mm (I bought a bunch for the headlights and taillights repairs). Seems those fasteners, at all of the exterior lighting really, takes a beating over the years. Bel-Metric, IIRC.

[patkeefe]

At least the lights look OK.

[hughc]

I like the idea of epoxsying a suitable nut to the back of the existing nut but I may try to JB weld the existing hole and retap to proper size.
Either way should give satisfactory results .
I'll see how the second headlight comes apart.
Thanks for the replies.

[donporfi]

You can use a clip on nut.

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by donporfi

You can use a clip on nut.

That's it! That's the clip on nut I was referring to in my previous post. Just need to find one with the correct metric thread.
donporfi Thanks for the post to clear things up.

[donporfi]

You can find those in McMaster or Belmetric
https://www.mcmaster.com/clip-on-nuts
https://www.belmetric.com/metric-speed-nuts-c-3_856/

[gremlin]

Excellent thank you, just ran into this installing my new Rennline lights today, unfortunately one of them fell out when I didn't realise the screw was stripped and now I need to order replacement glass... ugh!

[john walker's workshop]

You can also weld a 5mm nut to the back of the tab. If an epoxied nut comes loose, you'll never get the screw out. Turn forever.

[spuggy]

Originally Posted by josephvman

These seem to be extremely easy to strip, probably because the screw doesn't really hit the tang straight-on.

It has to, or it'll cross-thread... It shouldn't be too hard as long as the tang it screws into is at the correct angle inside the bucket, and you're inserting the screw "straight" (perpendicular) to the tang - which is pretty counter-intuitive as the angle you need to make with the screw/screwdriver seems odd/wrong.. Seem to remember having to be careful not to scratch the bumper on mine.

I wonder how many guys struggling with this have suffered from a PO thinking "angle on that tang doesn't look right, let me tweak that a bit"; which would likely result in the screw head not seating square in the rim of the headlight, or being almost impossible to get the thread started without boogering it...

[911pcars]

H4 bulb or H4 sealed beam light assembly? I’m trying to picture the setup. One of the following may or may not apply.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1873/1605/products/911-Headlights_large.jpg?v=1538038560

If there’s sufficient room, is it possible to create or install a short stud to replace the existing male screw? This can be accomplished by epoxy-gluing that M5 nut in place, then in turn, blue Loctite a M5 setscrew into the nut at the correct height to provide both an attachment point as well as an assembly-alignment post. This also minimizes angular error threading a screw into a fixed or slip-on nut. A M5 nut and flat washer completes the mod. Use stainless steel components for corrosion protection.

My WAG
Sherwood