Pedal Cluster rebuild tips
 

Hi Guys,
I committed to sharing a few tips I learned while doing my pedal cluster rebuild this past week. Also also replaced my totally shot clutch cable at the same time.
The best detailed reference I found for the rebuild was here: https://blog.*******.com/how-to-rebuild-the-pedal-cluster-on-an-air-cooled-porsche-911

My tips/findings:
I removed the front seat for more room...do this and you will thank yourself. Seat removal takes 5 min anyway.
My clutch cable sheath was toast somewhere in the tunnel where I couldn't see it...was thinking it is probably not a bad idea to replace the cable every 75K miles or so as preventative maintenance.
As you can see in the pics, my clutch arm on the pedal assembly had long since lost the bushing and had started to wear through the metal...yikes!
When removing the cluster don't bother trying to disconnect the brake pedal rod at the cluster end...just disconnect it from the master cylinder linkage at the top.
Same goes for the pedal cluster brace...just disconnect at the master cylinder end and not at the cluster end.
I was lucky in that my belly pan came off and went back on easily later...I have turbo tie rods on my car (82 SC) so I'm not sure if that helped keep the sway bar from not moving and keeping the bolt holes aligned?
Removal and replacement of the bushings with new brass ones was super easy (I bought a new clutch arm to replace the one that was wearing through).
Removal of the roll pin is easy if you buy a drift punch the right size that is meant for pin removal. Installing the new one was also easy if you're not afraid to give a few good whacks with a small hammer and then do the final drive in with the drift punch.
The metal and paint on my cluster was in great shape so nothing needed there. I did use some Flex Seal liquid to repair a worn spot under the cluster where the factory brushed on schmutz was coming off.
Can't say enough good things about the coin trick to expand the clutch spring...if it doesn't stretch enough on the first try, just add a few more coins.
Reinstall of the rebuilt cluster is easy. As with the removal, the toughest part is working on that super tight space getting the clevis connected. Slide in from the right side so that you can easily push it out later if required.
When installing the clutch cable, make sure that it is tight up against the bulkhead tube at the tunnel...I did this by pulling it on an off a few times with some force to make sure it is seating tight. You can hear it hit the stop when it is on right.
Cable adjustment to 25mm went fine using the factory procedure.
I did not grease my cable....super smooth without grease.
Double check and make sure your rubber stops for the brake and clutch pedals are in place or replace them as necessary...my clutch stop rubber bumper had fallen off and the pedal was hitting the metal of the stop bracket.
I'm sure I might be missing something but feel free to ping me if you have any questions....If you were to do this with some frequency I could see doing the whole thing in an hour or so. I took my time and did it over a couple days...probably 3 hours total time.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588965667.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588965879.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588965879.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588965879.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588965879.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588965879.jpg

Nice write-up. I envy you guys who say the roll pins are easy to get back in. I destroyed 2 of them trying to reinstall on my 1971 911T before giving up and having my local independent Porsche shop install the roll pin for me. Felt like I was going in with my tail between my legs!

dum dum will help prevent water ingress



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588976587.jpg

Thanks for the tips (and link, which I was able to locate with a basic search knowing the title).

I found that after disconnecting the pedal cluster brace at the top, I was unable to remove the cluster as I could not raise it enough to clear the front studs, because of the brace getting stopped up in its well. Wiggling the brace did not work. I used a 8mm hex to loosen it at the base, just enough to allow some lateral movement. That allowed me to easily remove the cluster.

If you don't want to tackle the job yourself, Bruce Stone / Bdstone914 has been doing them for years, is reasonably priced and makes them look like new.

I've seen the roll pins break before, leaving the customer stranded as the pedal flops around while the shaft stays put. I quit putting in the roll pins and instead use a 6mm cap screw with a nylock nut. To each their own though.

Another vote for Bruce Stone -bdstone914 on 914World.com. He did the pedal cluster one my restoration and it looks better than brand new. :)

You never know what you'll find on these old cars :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1653140092.jpg

To say the clutch pedal was a little floppy was an understatement, but the car was driving for years.