3D printing Aero bits (banana wing)
 

Hello everyone, with the quarantine it seems that I´ve got enough time to finish several projects I´ve been putting aside in the last months, one of them is 3d printing some ideas I´ve had for the 911, led tailights, a "radio" bluetooth speaker adapter and in this case a functional wing for the track.

so after spending a good amount of hours reading about aerodynamics, naca profiles, the NASA wing profile databe and of course turning that info into 3d models I came up with some options, first of all the (in)famous banana wing for which I´ve read in many forums and comments that is not the best alternative for a 911 because of the added drag but to be honest it is the one I like the most aesthetically so thats the one I started with, the beauty of 3d printing this part is that I get to test and try different options for a fraction of the cost of one wing.

Of course this multicolor mess won´t be the finish of the wing since I plan on covering them with vacuum bagged carbon fiber but its nice to have the reinforcement of the ribs and the infill of the 3d parts as internal support.

For anyone wondering the weight of the 3d printed wing is 2.6lbs which translates into more or less $20-$30 depending on the brand and type of PLA plastic plus around 80hrs worth of printing.

best regards and stay safe

Jake


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1592286572.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1592286572.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1592286572.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1592286572.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1592286572.png
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1592286572.png
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1592286572.png
some LED tail light ideas I´ve been working on
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1592286572.png
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1592286727.png

Using a 3d printer as a base for a wing? That is a really good idea! Now I wish I`d had a 3d printer :)

Great job[emoji1303]


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk Pro

Cool what large format printer do you have?

If you are looking for taillight ideas...

Please print a stock tail light housing outer edge with a shallow depth profile designed for flat LED panels and STOCK lenses. I am a buyer. My printer is not large enough to make this.

Thank you!

Its a creality cr10S, 300mmx300mmx400mm build volume

Great idea will do, will keep you posted

Will the carbon fiber be enough to keep the PLA from deforming under heat conditions that would be experienced with environmental exposure?

Are you printing PLA, PETG or ABS? How do you like the CR10? I have been looking at those but understand there are issues with the uniformity of the heated bed and adhesion for the higher temp filaments.

Happy to collaborate on the light housing if you want. Send me a PM.

Awesome. Look forward to seeing this come together!

Great looking project, I am also curious about your choice in printers, why the cr10 over the Ender 5 plus. I was about to buy a 5 plus, then Convid happen and they sold out. Supposed to be back in stock next week. Any advice on printers before I buy would be appreciated. Nice Work. Cheers, Tom

Currently using PLA. To be honest I´ve had zero problems with the CR10, bought it some 3 years ago and even though I sometimes don't use it for >8 months I can turn it on and print right away, I don´t even re-level the bed. But I only use PLA dont have any personal experience with PETG or ABS which I´ve heard is where things get complicated.

I kept thinking about your idea, made this quick mockups, will send you a PM



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1592344350.png
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1592344350.png

Hi Tom, I bought mine when the Ender 5 plus was not even out on the market, I did my research and found that the CR10S was the best bang for the buck back then, I really didn´t have a big budget for the printer and was just getting started so it made sense, I´m sure things have changed a lot since then and what I really reccomend is the FB owners group for the Creality printers, lots and lots of info in there and most important lots of good and bad reviews.

best regards

Jake

Nice designs. If you are using a flat LED panel, you'll want the one on the left where the LEDs are pointing towards the rear of the car thus the light will go towards the rear of the car where the cars behind you will see the most light. The one on the right will project light out at the angle of the panel.

I started with PLA but found PLA is very temperature sensitive and tends to twist like a pretzel under heat. But that was for small items. I moved then to ABS but ABS is difficult to work with and shrinks when cooling as it's designed to do so it pops out of molds after injection. ABS is difficult to keep on the platter. I ended up using ABS juice made from red or blue ABS mixed with acetone to keep the parts on the platter.

The problem I've had with ABS is items with posts made from many layers tends to break easily although it is the most stable WRT temperature.

I now use PETG for all of my printing for LEDs that I make. PETG is extremely strong layer-to-layer but still warps with temperature but not as much as PLA.

If you want to do anything custom WRT LED panels give me a shout. I've been making 911 brake, reverse, turnsignal, and sidemarker LED boards for a while.

This thread has gotten off topic talking about tail lights, but I'd like to get in on the tail light conversation.

I'd like buy or make 3D printed tail light housings with LED bulbs. I've started the CAD modeling but need to determine what material to print it front and what type and shape of LED's to run.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1595521233.jpg

I would start at either PETG or Nylon. PLA has too low a melting point and would warp in the sun and ABS I think is too brittle. Nylon is challenging to print so I'd start with PETG.

Another option is having the printed by somewhere like 3Dhubs using the MJF process. It is meant for industrial production and end use products. The surface finish is nicer than most printing processes and they can be tumbled or sand blasted. The best part is that the strength of the part is uniform and not different along different axes of the part so parts behave like a one part not a bunch of layers stuck together.

That was long. Hope it helps though.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

My plan is to print a prototype to work out the bugs and then get it printed professionally.

I need to get with Spoke Works to figure out the LED size and location.

That's generally the best way to be cheapest way to go. I'd still stick to PETG if you're going to drive with the prototype at all. Then I'd look at MJF or SLS for final pieces.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Interesting thread, some very good ideas and good work here.

Just a thought, some of the radio controlled guys are building their aircraft in carbon fibre/fiberglas/kevlar using molds built using 3D printers.

It completely eliminates the concern about material strength, lets them put in inserts and such and generally looks pretty straightforward. They are using just single half molds and then join the two halves using resin/carbon tape and make some pretty accurate, pretty strong parts.

Check out Ramy RC

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1TQBS1Wu3U

Dennis

Hexcel corp. makes pre-pregnated lay up material and the hexagonal core also.

wink, wink;
got a plan to sneak wing mock up into work Autoclave when I can get away with it

David, 3d model looks good, I personally was not planning on using the 3d printed part as a functional print but more of a proof of concept since modifying it is fairly simple and you can print just different sections of it to try out so that is the plan and then make a mould based on that for a fiberglass or cf housing, I only use PLA in my printer mainly because it runs great since day one and I wouldn´t want to go thru all the trouble you have to deal with when going to different materials, plus I´ve had good experience using my 3d prints as moulds.

best regards

Jake