Add second oil filter?
 

Racing application. Is there much advantage to adding a second oil filter into the system? If yes, where/how is the best way to install? I am currently running a large front bumper mounted B&B cooler. Just looking for an added layer of protection, or is this a waste of time?

Thanks for any thoughts..

Don

What engine do you have and where is the filter now?

Typically, racers put a filter on the low pressure side on the return line and one on the pressure side on the engine where the on engine oiler cooler would otherwise go.

Stock 3.2. Filter is in the stock location. Are you suggesting that the oil cooler attached to the engine is not needed and a 2nd filter could be designed into that location?

Yes. Just like a 965 Turbo. See here:

https://msroadrace.com/Porsche-965-Carrera-2-Turbo-Oil-Filter-Console-93010705701

That's a great price too.

To use that part you also need to get the RSR or 965 Turbo thermostat bypass plug. The 965 Turbo used Porsche part number 93010776702. A nicer part is available from JB Racing and is their PN 131-036.

The 93010776702 part has ports for oil temp and pressure if you need them. It's what I used on my race engine.

I’ve use the same approach winders mentioned on my racecars. On a stock car/engine I might not bother. It’s worth noting that while the cooler on the engine isn’t the most effective, but it’s not useless. Stock-ish cars may need the cooling capacity for track use. Personally I wouldn’t eliminate it unless I had a large front mounted oil cooler.

Edit - re-read and see you have a large cooler out front. The stock cooler on the engine probably isn’t needed in your case.

Apparently MS Road and Race has not updated their web site since before Covid. They actually laughed about it. I'll see if I can find one somewhere else. Thanks.

In my modified track car, I run the scavenge oil line to the front of the car into a filter, then into the oil coolers mounted up there. The idea is to keep trash from engine disasters from getting to the coolers, and the (front mounted) oil tank, in the first place. Then I run a filter where the engine cooler mounts, without the engine oil thermostat, so the oil from the pump to the engine bearings has a last chance filter (which is what Porsche did on the 935s, and the later 911s which dropped the engine mounted oil cooler). Pretty much what Scott first mentioned.

People used to run filters such as Oberg...plumbed bypass style..

If we use the 935 part, what do you do with the lower oil S-line?

I assume you mean the 965 filter console (the 935 racing ones are fabulously expensive)? I believe the factory used a special line or adapter the bolts to the two 8 mm studs. And there some aftermarket options that have AN threaded adapters. Check out JB Racing, they may have other options too.

Found and ordered this one today. I will report back. https://www.taorminaracingdesigns.com/product/billet-oil-filter-console-oil-cooler-delete/

Taorminaracingdesign is the same outfit “making” 3.6L replacement cases. Watch your order with care and hopefully they deliver.

Not a fan of this part. It does not have the built in deflector for the air cooling and angles the wrong way which limits filter choices. The Factory 965 part is better.

Thank you guys. I will go back and reconsider the 965 part. I really appreciated the comments.

Let us know if you actually receive the Taormina part. I've heard it's a nice piece (and yes as winders mentions you need to make a shield / cooling tin). But we've been hearing that the vendor hasn't been shipping parts.

My Taormina order has gone unfulfilled for months.

Does anyone know if the 965 part fits a 964 3.6?

Taormina Racing
 

I'm not sure if they are operating full time. No response to my on-line order. No reply to either of my emails or several phone calls. I'm actively looking for the 965 part. May just have to bite the bullet and order it from our host or another retail vendor. Thanks for all the help.

Yes. It's what I have on my 964-based engine. See here:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1638996009.jpg

Ot , but what starter are you using Scott ?

It’s a Hi-Torque IMI-101N…..

Any install or reliability issues ?

No. The Hi-Torque IMI-101N and IMI-101 starters are great and bolted right up.

Many years ago I had a problem with a Factory ring gear that was heat treated to be too hard. Teeth broke off. I replaced it with another Factory ring gear and had the same problem. There was at least one other person here on Pelican that had the same problem. They were not using a Hi-Torque starter.

I bought a Kennedy Engineering ring gear and never had a problem again. I think the other person did the same and that solved his problems as well.

Good info .
Thank you sir .

Just FYI of taormina racing. Got their oil filter console a few months ago with no problems. A bit slow though but this days what's not

Against the recommendations of some, I went with the Taormina part. I will post pictures once installed. We will carefully look at the airflow and fab up some parts if needed.

Question. Can someone explain what I need to do with the thermostat on the engine. Mine currently has a plate over the top. Do we need to just pull that thermostat or do we need to replace the thermostat with the part referenced above from JB Racing? If we need to replace it, why? I'm interested to know how it works. Thanks for any insight. Don

Normally the thermostat on the engine is replaced with a diverter like JB sells. The thermostat is intended to redirect the oil when it's cold to not pass through the oil cooler that mounts on the engine, to avoid blowing out the cooler. I believe the factory replaced the thermostat when they deleted the cooler.

You do need to put something in there to replace the thermostat to direct the oil properly (and keep it in the engine :) )

You can also take apart the stock thermostat and modify it so that all of the oil gets routed through the cooler ports.

If you try to just run a plate on top of the case, the oil won't be directed through the cooler. It will just come up from the J-pipe and go out into the passage that feeds the main galley, without any oil flow in and out of the cooler ports.

I talked to the guys at JB Racing and ordered the bypass.

Dannobee-- No cooler in my application. It's been replaced with an oil filter consol.

Yes, I know, but you can still use the t-stat and modify it to correctly direct the oil flow. Instead of going through a cooler, yours goes through a filter console. It's an old racer trick.

I did that on my first race engine. Swapped out the gutted t-stat for a diverter at some point.

Finished Product
 

I figured I would share our solution. We ended up buying the non factory part. Like was mentioned above we were not happy with the lack of air flow control. We took a factory oil cooler that was leaking and rebuilt it. We also wanted to retain the factory S-line. Pictures below show the part we made and how we built and supported the original oil hose. It looks like we have easy access for filter changes and the air will be properly routed to the rear cylinder. Comments and suggestions always welcome. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1644759378.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1644759378.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1644759378.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1644759378.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1644759378.jpg