I have some of the same questions about the B8. I am refreshing my suspension and adding 21/28 torsion bars. I called Bilstein directly and they told me that although the B6 would be fine, the B8 was more suitable because my car was lowered. I went to order them from our host and was surprised to find that they only make B8 inserts for the front with no B8 rear shocks. So the question is on my lowered 911 SC, if I use B8 front inserts, which rear shocks do I use? I called Bilstein directly again and unfortunately spoke to a rep that was less knowledgeable than the first. They could not give me a goods suggestion for rear shocks. Any thoughts?

Even w/ the b8 fronts regular rears have always been spec'ed
24- 1670 are the green hd used for Carrera and 930
24-009751 are yellow sport
24-009676 are yellow club sport

they become stiffer as you go down the list

w/ 21/28 t-bars I'd use either of the last 2

Thanks very much, Bill. That’s great advice. Mystery solved. I will probably go with the 9751 for the rears.

B6 should be fine. For the past few years, I have had Bilstein Sports on a lowered 84 with a little stiffer bars. While it's afar from perfect for perfectionists, good enough for my street, light track use. If you really care, Bilstein can custom valve for you to shave another 0.02 sec off your lap times.

Well, as a follow up, I solved my mystery, but it's not an impressive story. As a friend of mine once said, "never underestimate my ability to outsmart myself". That pretty much sums this up for me.

I was determined to get this "clunk" sorted out once and for all. So today I went under the car and checked everything out to see if any of the suggestions made here might be the cause. Well, none of the scenarios described applied....so I decided to remove one of the shocks....this was when my stupidity was put on full display. I forgot to separate the two rubber bushings at the top of the shock, so both we under the shock tower instead of one on top and one on bottom. Soooo, with that fixed I took her out for a shakedown drive. PROBLEM SOLVED!! Despite it being a self inflicted "clunk", I am glad I at least found the issue before I spent money on replacement shocks. So, although my car is lowered (not slammed), the Bilstein B6 shock works just fine, doesn't bottom over harsh bumps (like I had previously surmised).

You're never too old to learn....thanks to all PP'ers who gave me plenty to think about and helped lead me to the solution.

Tx, what are these rubber bushings? My shocks have a clunk and I can't remember having seen rubber bushings other than the big (end of travel?) one on the skinny part of the shock.

Although my shocks were green, not yellow, this is a pic of the two rubber bushings. They have a steel sleeve that connects them, through the body of the shock tower. One stays on the shock and inserted up into the shock tower, the other is placed back on to the shock shaft with the fender washer and nut.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1644119725.JPG

Tx, Thanks for your help! This is the Bilstein B6 inserts I used. I left the rubber bits where they were. Were they mean to be on top of the strut where it goes through and into the hood area?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1644127964.jpg

I just had 2 Bilstein front struts apart, and the rubber goes at the bottom inside the strut housing, as shown in the picture, right top. That's the bottom section.

Glad you found it! We have all made similar errors, thats how you learn. I could write a book on my own! I have gotten into the habit of taking pictures of everything while I am working. I use the camera on my phone more than the phone. Great when I forget my readers :) Sucks getting old.

Thanks, yep, that's the way I have it. But is there meant to be a rubber bushing at the top too?

Depending on your ride height , the bump rubbers need to be either fully discarded or cut in half .
If you do not tend to this you could run the front suspension at full compression hense the handling and ride will suffer greatly. It's all about the travel of the shock based on the T bar stiffness and ride height.

Ian

I want to piggyback on here if I can. According to the previous owner my car has bilstein sports all around. They'd be at least 40k miles and 12+ years old. 4 years ago I put in 21 and 30 tbars, new rubber elephant racing bushings everywhere and had it corner balanced and aligned at lower than euro height. It's probably a bit too low. I find the ride borderline. I knew I was going stiff with the tbars, but it's mostly used on fairly well maintained mountain roads. I love the handling but larger bumps are a bit painful sometimes.

I'm replacing tires and thinking of raising my car a bit closer to euro height. If I'm going to raise, align and cb it again I guess I may as well do the dampers too. It's a 2700lb m491 with 17inch 8.5 and 9.5 wheels (225/45 + 255/40). Stock sways. Would B8 hd fronts and b6 sport rears improve the ride of a lowered, lightened car with stiff tbars or is it just the nature of the tbars?

Also, I find the 21/30 ratio bars give me fairly neutral handling with mild oversteer when I want. If I soften the front dampers will it be a big change in that regard or is it more the springs and sways that determine the handling balance?


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1644216872.jpg

When I removed my old inserts, the bumpers were totally trashed. Probably from age and the low ride height of my car. My car is very low, definitely below euro height. How do I know how many (if any) bumpers to use?

for the "Turbo" strut inserts no rubber at top. actally there is never a rubber at top. it would quickly compress and desintegrate. that's what the strut tower mount is for to absorb.

the ribbed one at bottom can be cut in sections (3, 2, 1)
lightweight and lowerde sports cars can use 1 of the three.
A regular car should keep 3

mine is slightly lowered and lightened a bit. I use 2

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1644127964.jpg

Thanks Flo. I'll set my SC ROW to 2 also. Good to hear re no bushing up the top.