Ball Joint Question - notch orientation

[Gendaito]

I'm replacing the ball joints on my 1987 coupe. I ordered the Rennline kit (stock version).

This picture shows the two Rennline parts with the old take-off in the middle. The orientation of the wedge cutout on the top and the notch near the threads on the Rennline parts seem to be "off" by 90 degrees. I can't twist the Rennline parts to fix this. The old part is from the left side (US driver side). I don't know what the right side looks like as I haven't taken it off yet.

I'm able to get the ball joint into the suspension but then the notch doesn't line up with the notch in the control arm.

Am I doing something wrong, or are the Rennline parts incompatible?

Thanks!
Picture below:

[Cory M]

The pin rotates.

[Gendaito]

Originally Posted by Cory M

The pin rotates.

So there's no left or right version, the notch for the control arm will line up?

I tried rotating the ball joint by hand and it wouldn't budge.

[proporsche]

Gen..look at it this way..the name ball is that the bottom is a ball and it will rotate...the Joint is the upper part which goes into the strut.
Use vice-grips pliers and it will rotate...Install it 1st into the arm only after slide it in the strut.
Once you have it in the arm rotate the joint so it is lined up

that is all..to move the A arm use long bar to lower it for the installation...

Ivan

[Gendaito]

Originally Posted by proporsche

Gen..look at it this way..the name ball is that the bottom is a ball and it will rotate...the Joint is the upper part which goes into the strut.
Use vice-grips pliers and it will rotate...Install it 1st into the arm only after slide it in the strut.
Once you have it in the arm rotate the joint so it is lined up

that is all..to move the A arm use long bar to lower it for the installation...

Ivan

Perfect, thanks for the tips!

[proporsche]

oh ya left and right is the same...
Ivan

[Gendaito]

thanks for the help, everyone. Just got this finished today.

A couple of tips that some folks might find useful:

- the special socket for the castle nut makes things a lot easier. Try to borrow one (like I did) if you can. That plus an impact wrench (cordless or air) makes quick work of that.
- as others have said, the joint rotates so you can set the correct orientation of the notch on the shaft (goes into the strut) and the notch in the body (aligns with the notch in the control arm).
- for removal, remove the ball joint from the strut first (remove the small nut from the wedge pin and punch the pin out), then use a big hammer to tap the ball joint out of the strut. The control arm will help with additional leverage so don't separate the ball joint and the control arm until the ball joint is free of the strut
- for installation, apply a light smear of anti-seize
- install the ball joint into the strut first. it should go in by hand although it is a tight fit. Look to make sure the shaft is in the correct orientation to fit the wedge pin; the closer the better.
- the 22 ft-lb torque setting for the wedge pin should be enough to ensure proper alignment of the wedge and the shaft of the ball joint, especially if you are careful with the initial alignment of the shaft.
- I used two jacks to line up the control arm and the strut/wheel assembly, so that the ball joint connects to the control arm at the right angle for the castle nut.
- if you can't get the ball joint notch lined up with the control arm notch, make the notch more counter clockwise. As you tighten the castle nut, the joint will rotate clockwise and eventually click into place.

Anyway, hope this helps! Thanks for the replies, really made me confident enough to attempt this on my own.

[Gretz]

I will soon be reassembling my entire front suspension after removal and blasting/coating. Here's my stupid question:

Considering the high torque spec for the castle nut, and since everything is currently off the car, is there a reason not to install the ball joint into the control arm prior to installing the control arms/subframe assembly into the car? It seems like it would be easier to get the correct torque on the castle nut while the control arm is held in a vise.

[MichaelSJackson]

Originally Posted by Gretz

I will soon be reassembling my entire front suspension after removal and blasting/coating. Here's my stupid question:

Considering the high torque spec for the castle nut, and since everything is currently off the car, is there a reason not to install the ball joint into the control arm prior to installing the control arms/subframe assembly into the car? It seems like it would be easier to get the correct torque on the castle nut while the control arm is held in a vise.

That's what I've done.

[Flojo]

Originally Posted by Gretz

..is there a reason not to install the ball joint into the control arm prior to installing the control arms/subframe assembly into the car?

either way what I learned is: to keep the wrensh securely gripped to the castle nut, you need two people. one applies torque, the other keeps it from twisting off.
at least figure something out in case you do that alone (some fixture).

better be safe than sorry. because once the castle nut is crooked its a fun time chiseling

[NotStock]

Having just done this, its easier to torque the ball joint with the arm installed in the car. By all means install them hand tight with the assembly on the bench to avoid cross threading, but do the torquing on the car. The trick is to use a jack to put force on the back of the torque wrench you are using on the ball joint nut/socket. Use a chunk of plywood between the jack and the back of the torque wrench to avoid damage to the wrench. This eliminates the chance of the socket coming off the nut. I'm not sure how you'd get such good engagement without using the jack (ie arms off the car).

My other suggestion is to not use the fancy (expensive) socket to remove the ball joint nut. Seems to have worked in this case, but too much risk of damage to the socket for my linking. I die grind a slot in the nut down to the threads (you're tossing the old joint anyway) then spin it off with an air hammer.

[Locker537]

Which socket are people buying?

[mepstein]

JimmyT make one. It’s awesome.
I’ve used it a couple times now with a impact gun to remove heavily corroded ball joint nuts and it not only worked every time, it still looks new.
I clean up and send the ball joint nuts to my plater when I have a batch of parts. They come back looking near new. There’s no reason to cut them off.

[proporsche]

Yup got one of those for Jimmy too..what a nice tool to have

Ivan

here is his email contact him ..he does not mind to share it ..last time he told me...jim@tidwell.org

[digitaldgp]

I bought this socket, worked great!!

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25965-Bearing-Locknut-Socket/dp/B004FDJDE2/ref=sr_1_1?crid=382U59WJ6SS6Q&keywords=OEMTOOLS+25965+1%2F2+Inch+66.5+by+80mm+Fr ont+Wheel+Bearing+Locknut+Socket&qid=1644433697&sprefix=oemtools+25965+1%2F2+inch+66.5+by+80mm+fro nt+wheel+bearing+locknut+socket%2Caps%2C510&sr=8-1